Underseal

[hwfdavidson264]

Last year purchased a 1998 XK conv. in unmarked Sapphire Blue. In it's first 10 years of live it covered 34,209 miles and 20,000 in it's second ten years. Currently reading 58,325 miles.Brilliant car and the wifes loves it. I also have a very rare early BMW Z4, which predictably she hates. The Jaguar was undersealed early in its life. My question is " Is there an easy way to tell the difference between Lanoguard and Waxoil?" I would like to have the seal refinished but cannot tell what is already applied.

[Jaguar_Enthusiast]

Assuming the Waxoyl is still in place, you’d be able to see and feel it (black, almost tar-like finish) whereas the Lanoguard I don’t think would be as evident, if at all.

I’m interested in undersealing as well and am trying to choose which of these routes to go down. Would likewise be interested to hear others’ thoughts.

[Thixendale]

There is an article in this month's JEC magazine where a member had their car done with lanoguard. Might be worth reading.

Tony

[hwfdavidson264]

Thank you to you both for the insight. Will check the article re. Lanoguard before progressing as the description offered by Jaguar_Enthusiast appears to match the appearance of the current product. My specialist repair company reports after their purchase survey that the product has done a very good job and adheres very well, given it is clearly not a recent covering.

[ptjs1]

hwfdavidson264,

Is there a reason why you think it's only Waxoyl or Lanoguard? There are a variety of products on the market including Corrolan, Dynax, Dinitrol, Techshield, Owatrol etc. And many of those have a clear(ish), yelowish, brown or black option. The Waxoyl basic product is yellowish, although they do have a black product as well. Some products are wax-based, some are lanolin-based. If it's been applied in the last few years, it almost definitely won't be bitumed-based, which you want to avoid. If it's a permanent hard coating that is starting to crack, you really need to peel it off back to sound metal as it will harbour moisture under any broken coating. If there's any rust on exposed areas, I would use some Aquasteel converter, or Dinitrol RC900 converter before applying a wax topcoat product.

If you're not sure what is currently there, but it still seems to be a soft non-setting coating, I would use a Dinitrol 4941 black coating wax on the underside to top up the existing coating. It's soft enough that it will creep under the edges of the existing coating. I'd also use Dinitrol 1000 clear cavity wax to top up any cavity areas.

Good luck,

Paul

[jamie928]

Dinitrol is the way to go, had it applied to a few of my cars as living in Scotland you need to protect your vehicle, picking up A XKR convertible next week & it will be going in for treatment as the garage who specialises in this do a yearly check free of charge.

[Jaguar_Enthusiast]

Jamie928 - I’m interested in your post : May I ask who you’re using for this treatment?

[hwfdavidson264]

And I stupidly thought undersealing was a fairly easy process. Now I am not so sure, although the existing product is soft and deep black in colour. It's that that made me think it was likely to be Waxoyl. Looks like I will have to investigate further.But thanks to all for the input. I suspect there is some lack of campatibilty here, so will drag the car around and see if any specialist can identify the exisitng coating.
Once again, thanks for the input. It has probably saved me from a "bottom load of grief".

[Jambo1964]

Jamie928 - I’m interested in your post : May I ask who you’re using for this treatment?

I've had a Jeep and XK done by this company -

https://preserveprotect.co.uk