Fuel System Pressure

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JMD

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Joined:Sat Apr 09, 2022 4:26 pm
Fuel System Pressure

Postby JMD » Mon Jan 16, 2023 8:13 pm

Hi Guys
I have a 3.4 Mk2 and I am looking for some advice regarding the Fuel system pressure and how to diagnose.

I have an intermittent engine cutting out issue and would like to rule out the fuel system/ pressure scenario first..

Is there an inline valve that I can screw a pressure meter onto?

Any advise on how to go about a check of the pump and system greatly appreciated

thanks

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piman
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Location:Oswestry

Re: Fuel System Pressure

Postby piman » Tue Jan 17, 2023 4:06 pm

Hello JMD,

fuel pressure is not really a problem unless it is too high. S.U.s only run on about 2 to 3 lbs per square inch.
Can you explain in a bit more depth as to what is happening and what you have checked so far. A good indication is what the fuel pump is doing, if it is running fast, for example, it indicates a lack of fuel, maybe a blocked inlet line or an air leak at the pump union. If the car stops running, switch off the ignition and take the tops of the float chambers, if they are low or empty then it is a fuel supply problem, if they are full it probably is not.

Alec
Mk 2 3.8 (long term restoration), MK1 Triumph 2.5 P.I. , 564 Hymer Motorhome

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JMD

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Re: Fuel System Pressure

Postby JMD » Sat Feb 25, 2023 12:25 pm

Thank you Piman for that.

Probably best if I describe what happens when the car does its cutting out scenario.
Firstly I should explain that there is a electronic ignition conversion done on the distributor before I bought car. I've had the carbs re-built the ignition timing checked new plugs etc...

The engine starts normally, the fuel pump charges up on the key does not make any noises or seem to be faulty.

The issues starts after maybe a 10 mile run. starts with an initial hesitation which gets worse with engine ultimately dying and cutting out.
The interesting part is that when I turn it over it doesn't fire at all, not even running on a few cylinders.

In order to get back home I have been normally opening bonnet and waiting maybe an half hour after which it restarts and I get a few miles before the the whole process starts again.
What I did notice the last time it happened was that on this occasion I actually took off the distributor cap and took a look. After this It did noticeably seem to start quicker and ran pretty good for a few miles until once again dying.

I am now wondering if this electronic ignition conversion kit that has been fitted has an issue maybe with heat sinking via the engine/ distributor body, I say this mainly because the engine did spring to life after the cap had been off for a bit, possibly venting .

The weather not great here at the moment so haven't been able to do anything recently.

thanks
JMD


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