Main instruments and gear lever interlock

[davidr]

Oh blimey! What have I done now?
It all started easy enough. The illumination behind the main instruments was not complete on my 2001 XKR. There were obviously a couple of bulbs that needed to be replaced. There is a bit of dismantling before the instrument pack can come out but nothing very challenging so I soon had it out and on my bench.
Testing bulbs for continuity with a multimeter soon showed the errant ones and I replaced them and put the instruments back in.
Trying the lights again showed the instruments now fully illuminated. Success! Tick another job off the list!
I started the car and put it away.
The next weekend I pulled out the centre console so I could get to the central switch packs above the stereo as there are a couple of bulbs to replace there too.
Now here comes the problem. The main instrument pack is dead and the interlock solenoid isn't working so the car won't come out of Park.
How weird is that?!
I've checked all the fuses etc and all are good.
I've looked to see if I disturbed anything when I was taking the main instruments out (I removed the lower valance) but couldn't see anything.
My only thought is that I may have disturbed / damaged / disconnected something to do with the brake switch which maybe explains the interlock issue but I haven't got a good idea for the instrument pack.
Any ideas folks?

[mike020150]

Wow! I'm sure you must be vying for the all time record number of electrical issues on an XKR! This sounds like an issue for Astromorg and his brilliant knowledge of XK8/R wiring. Where are you John? Mike.

[davidr]

Thanks Mike - the legacy of a car that's been sat for many years!

[Astromorg]

That's a generous invitation Mike; thank you! (I think!)

As you seem to be thinking David, the problem is more likely to be a result of what's been done recently rather than an unfortunate coincidence of timing. Now although since fitting the new bulbs in the instrument panel you've had the car running, I think I'd still start by looking there. As you know, the two connectors to the panel are pushed/pulled into place by means of a locking lever arrangement. It's not difficult to think you've got them properly located only for them to slacken off if the lever has not gone over-centre. To plug a connector in, the black plastic bail must be fully rotated AWAY from the cable end of the connector to start the insertion process. Then push the connector in firmly. Then rotate the bail TOWARD the cable end and the connector will self seat and lock.

I'm assuming that other non-ignition systems such as lighting still work and the battery is OK

If that will give you at least a glimmer of hope to get on with, I'll spend some time now thinking of other possible causes.

A query; when you try to move the selector lever, does the usual warning alarm sound, indicating the solenoid has not operated?

[davidr]

Thanks for your thoughts. I'm as sure as I can be that both plugs are correctly connected. I took it out again after the first time to check all the pins and did a continuity test between the pin for the lighting and ground and that was OK so I think the panel is working properly. The connectors were refastened as you describe.
The alarm does sound both when I try to move the gear lever out of Park (because the interlock solenoid hasn't released) and also when I have moved it out of Park by using the manual over-ride.
What I forgot to mention was that when I was putting the lower valance back on after re-assembling the dash that alarm was sounding intermittently for some reason as if the back of the valance was touching something. I had a look but couldn't see anything wrong but that is one of the reasons I'm thinking I have done something in that area.
After doing some more reading I think there is a link between the brake switch and the instrument pack so I'll have a much closer look when I get a chance over the weekend.

[Astromorg]

The link between the brake switch and the gear shift solenoid is interesting wrt this problem. The brake switch is fed directly from the ECU as it's a switched ground system. Its status - On or Off - is then put on the CAN bus that goes from the ECU to the Gear Selector Illumination Module and then to the Instrument Panel from where it's fed on to the Body Processor Module. That module then generates the power output to the operate the solenoid switch.

If it helps, the CAN bus uses a Yellow and Green pair of wires twisted together from module to module and at the IP the pair in and the pair out are both in the 48 way connector.

If there is a problem in the CAN bus continuity it should create a fault code if you have a scanner to pick it up. The MIL might not be lit as the fault may still be assessed as Pending.

I interpret the alarm operating when the selector is moved as indicating the Not-in-Park switch is OK, but I have no idea yet as to why replacing the panel could tweak it!!

[davidr]

Thanks Astromorg - brilliant information!
I have an iCarsoft scanner so let's see if there are any fault codes. I was thinking of plugging the scanner in anyway hoping that I could interrogate the operation of the brake switch and gear lever solenoid.
I'll report back tomorrow but first priority will be the rugby!

[Andy P]

Hi Guys,
Might be a long shot but I had the same sort of problem after I removed my gear lever assembly to change the bulbs in the J-Gate.
Some of the wires that are soldered onto the top of the illumination board were either shorting out or not making good contact and the result was I couldn't get it out of park(my own fault I damaged them while getting the board out to change the bulbs).
I re soldered the wires and all back to normal thankfully .
Thought I'd mention it as you said you removed the center console to get at the switches above the radio.
Might be worth a little look in that area.
Good luck and hope you find the problem.
Take care.
Andy

[davidr]

I've had a good look this afternoon for any plugs or wires that may be loose but can't see anything amiss.
I undid both plugs to the instrument panel just to make double sure that the pins were all clean and straight and that the plug was seated properly.
I've checked every fuse and spent quite some time scrutinising wiring diagrams etc.
Now that I've tried again I'm not really very much further forward.
This is what the panel looks like with the engine running. Note the warning lights, no fuel reading and no tacho.

I plugged in my iCarsoft scanner and this is the DTC I got. This suggests that the CAN network has a fault?

[Astromorg]

Mmm. I think there may be some useful progress there!

That particular fault code is just what one could expect and Jaguar's own explanation for it, below, gives some useful ways ahead:

Fault description is - CAN INST token message missing.

Default Action - None (Engine speed and coolant temperature data missing at instrument pack)

Possible Causes - CAN open circuit fault – CAN short circuit fault, INST failure, ECM failure

Let's be optimistic and start by looking for shorts or open circuits in the CAN bus. This, while not difficult in theory, can be awkward in gaining access to various connectors, but Jaguar have produced an algorithm so that progress can be logical. The information is all in JTIS, the workshop manual, so first question is have you a copy of that? If so you need Section 418-00, Diagnosis and Testing, DTC Index. If you don't have that document, I can sort something out for you!
Hopefully that will get things going in the right direction!

A PS question! Did you have the battery disconnected whenever you worked on, ie disconnected, the IP? It would have been best.

[davidr]

Hi Astromorg. That makes sense.
I don't have JTIS so if you can point me in the right direction I'd be very grateful.
The battery was connected when I took the IP out. Maybe that wasn't wise!
Do you think if I disconnected the battery die a few days that the CAN will re-establish itself?

[Astromorg]

I’m working on the best way to get JTIS to you, because it’s too big to email, even in a compressed format.
In the meantime there’s a couple of ideas; first, in these situations it’s worth trying a hard reset. If you’re not familiar with this, it requires the battery negative connection to be removed and while removed, either touched or otherwise connected to the positive terminal. With the negative disconnected this is an entirely safe procedure, but clears all the electronics back to basics.
The fault code should be cleared and then see if it returns at the next switch-on.
The precursor as to which algorithm to follow is decided by a simple check of the CAN circuit by measuring its resistance between two pins in the diagnostic connection point – Pins 6 and 14, as shown in the diagram below and in Fig 21.1 of the electrical diagrams that you have. Also the relevant extract from JTIS.

That's a start, but I'll come back with more, ie V2 or V6 according to what you find if that's OK!

[davidr]

Excellent - thanks very much.
I'm away for a few days but I've left the battery disconnected for the next few days until I get back. I'll do the hard reset (and yes I do understand what you mean by that) and see where that gets us.

[Astromorg]

I’ve studied the algorithm now and it’s targeted at a CAN circuit with a fault that could be anywhere in the system. Bearing in mind the circumstances of your fault arising, I think it would be reasonable to start out by checking the CAN in the areas of the car in which you were working just before the fault occurred. That would also fit in with the layout of the CAN in that you can isolate the appropriate section of the CAN from the ECU through to the diagnostic socket (DLC) without too much difficulty. I’ve attached a picture of this section of the wiring for reference.

Assuming that the hard reset and clearing the fault code with your scanner haven’t sorted it, I would disconnect the battery. Then disconnect the CAN at the ECU (Connector EM83 in the diagram) and test the Green and the Yellow CAN wires for continuity/resistance fromEM83 to pins 6 and 14 on the diagnostic connector socket. Both wires should measure less than 5 ohms from EM83 to the DLC, but not be Open Circuit as that would indicate a break or a bad connection somewhere.
If there is no continuity or high resistance on one or both wires, you’re going to have to start dividing the wires at another connection to narrow down where the problem is.

If continuity is good on both wires, there may still be a short on one or both, either between themselves or with another adjacent wire or ground. There are detailed checks to cover those scenarios if you need them. (Fingers crossed!)

[davidr]

I've now done the hard reset and reconnected the battery. All the dash lights came on, including the illumination and then went off after a while.
Turning the key to position 2 the result is the same as before.
When I get a chance I'll go and do the first test that Astromorg suggested and go from there.