When I bought my 2003 XJR it came with immaculate 19"Performance Alloys fitted with Dunlop Winter tyres all round.
I was talking to the previous owner today, to check a couple of things, and he mentioned he still had a set of 20" Sepangs with Dunlop tyres between 5-6mm.
He says they have a few marks, and would I like to make him an offer.
So what are 4x Sepangs with good Dunlop tyres worth?
20" Sepangs
Re: 20" Sepangs
New, Sepangs are around £950 each. So that makes £3,800.
A new Dunlop MXX is around £170 each. So that makes £680.
All together, that`s a £4480 package with new tyres. All at retail prices.
Taking the one third rule I always apply when buying used parts, that would suggest something like £1493 with NEW tyres. As the tyres are not new, a proportional deduction of around £200 seems about right. That brings the complete used rim and tyre package down to around £1293.
Try a first and final offer at £1000 and gauge the reaction. £1200 tops in my opinion but I`d be trying to get the whole lot for £800-850!
Mike K
A new Dunlop MXX is around £170 each. So that makes £680.
All together, that`s a £4480 package with new tyres. All at retail prices.
Taking the one third rule I always apply when buying used parts, that would suggest something like £1493 with NEW tyres. As the tyres are not new, a proportional deduction of around £200 seems about right. That brings the complete used rim and tyre package down to around £1293.
Try a first and final offer at £1000 and gauge the reaction. £1200 tops in my opinion but I`d be trying to get the whole lot for £800-850!
Mike K
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: 20" Sepangs
My XJ8 has Sepangs fitted,the car had only done 35000 miles when I bought it at the back end of last year but even at that low mileage the wheels had already been refurbed,sadly not that well,I find it quite sad that wheels that cost that much could suffer that badly with corrosion that soon(when I said they had not been well refurbed I wasn't kidding!) so I would be hesitant about offering anything for them until seeing them.
Just out of curiosity my local wheel refub company who did a quite magnificent job on a set of wheels for me a couple of years ago have quoted me just under £700 to refurbish all 4,the big snag is they want the wheels for 4 days to strip them properly,I have no doubt they would look superb but can just see myself kerbing one very quickly!
There are a set of 4 refurbished wheels on ebay at present for £1400,looks like somebody wants to make a few bob profit!
Just out of curiosity my local wheel refub company who did a quite magnificent job on a set of wheels for me a couple of years ago have quoted me just under £700 to refurbish all 4,the big snag is they want the wheels for 4 days to strip them properly,I have no doubt they would look superb but can just see myself kerbing one very quickly!
There are a set of 4 refurbished wheels on ebay at present for £1400,looks like somebody wants to make a few bob profit!
Re: 20" Sepangs
So I was sent some pics, but not sure how to upload themNew, Sepangs are around £950 each. So that makes £3,800.
A new Dunlop MXX is around £170 each. So that makes £680.
All together, that`s a £4480 package with new tyres. All at retail prices.
Taking the one third rule I always apply when buying used parts, that would suggest something like £1493 with NEW tyres. As the tyres are not new, a proportional deduction of around £200 seems about right. That brings the complete used rim and tyre package down to around £1293.
Try a first and final offer at £1000 and gauge the reaction. £1200 tops in my opinion but I`d be trying to get the whole lot for £800-850!
Mike K
Tyre depths are (edge/middle/edge)
NSF 5/5/5
OSF 6/5/6
NSR 5/4/5
OSR 5.5/4.5/5.5
All are 255/35 r20 97Y Dunlop Sports Maxx
He's also including the 4x Heyner tyre carry bags, and the set of locking wheel nuts he removed with the 20's.
So I made an offer of £850 and he has accepted
Just got to pick them up now (1 in boot, 2 on back seat, 1 on passenger seat!)
Summer tyres sorted and my Dunlop winter tyre shod 19" Performance alloys can be relegated to the shed once the time is right!
Happy bunny.....
Re: 20" Sepangs
A cracking result. I think you did well.
Go to "attachments" then "add files" to upload images. Some of your images may well need resizing. Windows programs often have a built in resizer. Right click on your desired image and open "resize pictures". Set the parameters in pixels and limit sizing to 900H x 1300W. That means that our site will accept rather than reject your images. See how you get on.
Mike K
Go to "attachments" then "add files" to upload images. Some of your images may well need resizing. Windows programs often have a built in resizer. Right click on your desired image and open "resize pictures". Set the parameters in pixels and limit sizing to 900H x 1300W. That means that our site will accept rather than reject your images. See how you get on.
Mike K
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: 20" Sepangs
Hopefully I've managed to resize these and get them attached correctly?A cracking result. I think you did well.
Go to "attachments" then "add files" to upload images. Some of your images may well need resizing. Windows programs often have a built in resizer. Right click on your desired image and open "resize pictures". Set the parameters in pixels and limit sizing to 900H x 1300W. That means that our site will accept rather than reject your images. See how you get on.
Mike K
They are not mint, but for £850 I'm happy!
Re: 20" Sepangs
last 2 pics (wouldn't let me add 5 at once!)Hopefully I've managed to resize these and get them attached correctly?A cracking result. I think you did well.
Go to "attachments" then "add files" to upload images. Some of your images may well need resizing. Windows programs often have a built in resizer. Right click on your desired image and open "resize pictures". Set the parameters in pixels and limit sizing to 900H x 1300W. That means that our site will accept rather than reject your images. See how you get on.
Mike K
They are not mint, but for £850 I'm happy!
Re: 20" Sepangs
Its unlikely I'll have the money to refurb them anytime soon, but if i did I have the advantage of having the 19" performance ones (shod with winter tyres) to use whilst they are done.My XJ8 has Sepangs fitted,the car had only done 35000 miles when I bought it at the back end of last year but even at that low mileage the wheels had already been refurbed,sadly not that well,I find it quite sad that wheels that cost that much could suffer that badly with corrosion that soon(when I said they had not been well refurbed I wasn't kidding!) so I would be hesitant about offering anything for them until seeing them.
Just out of curiosity my local wheel refub company who did a quite magnificent job on a set of wheels for me a couple of years ago have quoted me just under £700 to refurbish all 4,the big snag is they want the wheels for 4 days to strip them properly,I have no doubt they would look superb but can just see myself kerbing one very quickly!
There are a set of 4 refurbished wheels on ebay at present for £1400,looks like somebody wants to make a few bob profit!
Re: 20" Sepangs
You can add more than 3 photos if you use the "place inline" function that puts the pictures in amongst your text
Re: 20" Sepangs
thanks for the tip David!You can add more than 3 photos if you use the "place inline" function that puts the pictures in amongst your text
Re: 20" Sepangs
I love those wheel bags. Dead cool as my four year old Grand daughter would say!
Those rims look in fine condition generally. Corrosion under the paint due to micro paint break down is often an issue. An issue it may be , but a problem generally it is not.
I used a fine garnet flappy wheel on an angle grinder when I came to treat quite a bit of corrosion on my rims. The worst parts were on the inner rims. This can often occur due to hot brake dust landing on the paint and burning through the finish. On one rim I suppose I had to remove about 70% of the paint. The garnet paper removed flaking paint and corrosion. A similar regime was applied to the outer rim sections but using a rather smaller power hand tool and again garnet abrasive. What I couln`t tackle with power tools I addressed using fine sand paper. Best advice is NOT to use Wet and Dry production paper due to having carbon based carborundum as the abrasive medium. Aluminum and carbon are bad bed partners. Carbon traced into aluminum will set off rampant future corrosion issue which are much harder to fix.
Having cleared the corrosion, I made sure all the abrasive marks from the flappy wheel on the paint were removed and flatted down the opened up edges. I recall I used something like P360 flower or sand paper to tidy things up. Hovered off and then blown off with compressed air, the wheels were fresh water washed using a pressure washer then wiped down with a clean cloth, left to air dry and then wiped over with grease removing panel wipe. I then masked up the tyres in preparation for priming.
I have a favourite two pack etch primer which I used to use when repainting aircraft. Its adhesion is fantastic. Its U-poxy etch primer and can be found on the internet. Its remarkably cheap. For about £30 you get a 500ml can of paint and a similar amount of activator. It can be brushed, rolled or best sprayed. Being two pack you need an appropriate class of paint mask to protect your lungs. I find one of those cheap, small top fed spray guns for about £12 on ebay to be ideal for the job. A 10cfm compressor is ideal for one of these small paint guns. It is imperative to stir the base primer in the can before use. about ten minutes stirring is usually required to get it properly mixed. It is very heavy in solids so proper stirring is essential. Don`t mix up too much at any one time. a little goes a long way in a spray gun. When ready to spray, mix a quantity of base paint and activator. Leave to stand for around fifteen minutes before use. Stir the mix whilst the chemical activation gets going.
U-poxy is easy to spay and sets by chemical reaction the speed of which is governed by the temperature of the day. I usually place rims in the sun for half an hour before priming. This helps the sprayed paint set of quickly. Three or for coats at ten minute intervals has worked well for me. Left for a couple of hours in the sun, the primer can then usually be wet or dry sanded to produce a good surface finish. P600 or P800 W&D paper can be used for flatting but care must be taken to ensure you do not rub down to bare aluminum. Pressure wash and use a new sponge to remove the rubbing down slurry. Blow off the rims with compressed air, then you are ready for silver or other colour top coat paint.
Lastly, any minor rim damage can often be repaired with epoxy filler. Sanded to profile before priming is carried out, it is very easy to restore kerbing dings and scrapes. Once primed and painted, all the evidence of mal-treatment vanishes!
As we used to say in the hanger, "A tenners work of fresh paint makes the biggest load of old b#####ks look a million dollars"! How true those words are. Never buy a stretched limo from me. I promise you will never see my panel joints!!
Mike K
Those rims look in fine condition generally. Corrosion under the paint due to micro paint break down is often an issue. An issue it may be , but a problem generally it is not.
I used a fine garnet flappy wheel on an angle grinder when I came to treat quite a bit of corrosion on my rims. The worst parts were on the inner rims. This can often occur due to hot brake dust landing on the paint and burning through the finish. On one rim I suppose I had to remove about 70% of the paint. The garnet paper removed flaking paint and corrosion. A similar regime was applied to the outer rim sections but using a rather smaller power hand tool and again garnet abrasive. What I couln`t tackle with power tools I addressed using fine sand paper. Best advice is NOT to use Wet and Dry production paper due to having carbon based carborundum as the abrasive medium. Aluminum and carbon are bad bed partners. Carbon traced into aluminum will set off rampant future corrosion issue which are much harder to fix.
Having cleared the corrosion, I made sure all the abrasive marks from the flappy wheel on the paint were removed and flatted down the opened up edges. I recall I used something like P360 flower or sand paper to tidy things up. Hovered off and then blown off with compressed air, the wheels were fresh water washed using a pressure washer then wiped down with a clean cloth, left to air dry and then wiped over with grease removing panel wipe. I then masked up the tyres in preparation for priming.
I have a favourite two pack etch primer which I used to use when repainting aircraft. Its adhesion is fantastic. Its U-poxy etch primer and can be found on the internet. Its remarkably cheap. For about £30 you get a 500ml can of paint and a similar amount of activator. It can be brushed, rolled or best sprayed. Being two pack you need an appropriate class of paint mask to protect your lungs. I find one of those cheap, small top fed spray guns for about £12 on ebay to be ideal for the job. A 10cfm compressor is ideal for one of these small paint guns. It is imperative to stir the base primer in the can before use. about ten minutes stirring is usually required to get it properly mixed. It is very heavy in solids so proper stirring is essential. Don`t mix up too much at any one time. a little goes a long way in a spray gun. When ready to spray, mix a quantity of base paint and activator. Leave to stand for around fifteen minutes before use. Stir the mix whilst the chemical activation gets going.
U-poxy is easy to spay and sets by chemical reaction the speed of which is governed by the temperature of the day. I usually place rims in the sun for half an hour before priming. This helps the sprayed paint set of quickly. Three or for coats at ten minute intervals has worked well for me. Left for a couple of hours in the sun, the primer can then usually be wet or dry sanded to produce a good surface finish. P600 or P800 W&D paper can be used for flatting but care must be taken to ensure you do not rub down to bare aluminum. Pressure wash and use a new sponge to remove the rubbing down slurry. Blow off the rims with compressed air, then you are ready for silver or other colour top coat paint.
Lastly, any minor rim damage can often be repaired with epoxy filler. Sanded to profile before priming is carried out, it is very easy to restore kerbing dings and scrapes. Once primed and painted, all the evidence of mal-treatment vanishes!
As we used to say in the hanger, "A tenners work of fresh paint makes the biggest load of old b#####ks look a million dollars"! How true those words are. Never buy a stretched limo from me. I promise you will never see my panel joints!!
Mike K
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: 20" Sepangs
Now they look pretty good,definately well worth the money,to be fair mine don't look too bad as long as you don't get too close,as a result many people don't understand why I am not happy with them,but being used to preparing cars for shows over the years I tend to notice every scratch,dent,etc,the wheels have been painted & when I am up close I can see the pitting caused by the corrosion through the paint,it isn't that obvious but I know it is there!
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Manbearpig
- Posts:24
- Joined:Sun Dec 24, 2017 2:19 am
Re: 20" Sepangs
Sepangs are a beautiful wheel, but a bit maintenance heavy in the old brake dust dept for my liking!
Top tip in keeping corrosion down by regular cleaning - Korrosol or similar (theres loads of other brands do the same job). Removes ingrained metallic debris from road and brake friction material. Much gentler than the usual wheel acids like Wonder wheels which I have stopped using as they seemed to eat the lacquer and dull the wheel over time.
Though the video shows the muck falling offf I like to use a soft bristled paintbrush to work it in. Wheel woolies would be better for intricate wheels like Sepangs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8M9tC00EIqU
Top tip in keeping corrosion down by regular cleaning - Korrosol or similar (theres loads of other brands do the same job). Removes ingrained metallic debris from road and brake friction material. Much gentler than the usual wheel acids like Wonder wheels which I have stopped using as they seemed to eat the lacquer and dull the wheel over time.
Though the video shows the muck falling offf I like to use a soft bristled paintbrush to work it in. Wheel woolies would be better for intricate wheels like Sepangs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8M9tC00EIqU
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