Positive to negative again

[sweller]

Now my decision is to convert the original clock to include an IC based impulsgenerator to avoid the sparking which seem to be the killer for those Smiths-Clocks. So converted it is still my original clock working on the mecanical "Motor" without the hassel to have them fixed every few years. I can't get myself to fit a Quarz-clock.

How much is he charging to convert the clock?

[ashcloud]

Sounds like a lot of work with the loom.

He charges 75 U$ to convert the clock! (that includes returnshipping within the US)

I hope that once I have the steering column out that I can identify the squeak.
I want it out anyway to get that starterkey lock off (they use breakoff screws to attach it) and I dont want to use the Flex cutter inside the car. It is too easy to damage something or burn the car down
Bernhard.

[sweller]

He charges 75 U$ to convert the clock! (that includes returnshipping within the US)

Do you have any contact details? That sounds very reasonable - especially if he'll post back to the UK.

I want it out anyway to get that starterkey lock off (they use breakoff screws to attach it) and I dont want to use the Flex cutter inside the car.

I used to race bangers (Demolition Derby for our overseas viewers) and the trick to get them out twenty odd years ago (I don't see a sixties Jag being different to a seventies Triumph) was to use a wood chisel and screwdriver.

The metal used in the breakoff screws is very soft and I had a scrap 1/4" wood chisel which I'd hit with a hammer to cut a slot in the breakoff screw's head - a couple of whacks was usually enough - and then unscrew them with a normal screwdriver in the new slot. Takes minutes, can be done in-situ so no need for messy and time consuming cutters.

[ashcloud]

Thanks for the info on the lock, once I have the column out I will just do that but while it is in, it is inaccessable.

About the clock, I found the info somewhere on the forum but here again:

http://www.jaguarclock.com/
email: compudes@optonline.net
Name: Mike Eck

it is not much of a site but the guy responded quickly and seems knowledgeable. My wife thinks it is risky but it is a just a clock so why not take a chance. I will see that I can ship it tomorrow and want to get it back by middle of November. I will let You know.



Bernhard

[ashcloud]

Hi guys a final update on my fixed Smith clock and the Tach:
The guy in New Jersey inserted the IC to replace those "sparklers" and ran it for two weeks to get it set for some accuracy.
For my Tach: he gave me the wireing and sent the missing coil (included for free) and I did as told and soldered all original wires back into place, Voila ..... I have a working original Tach. Beautiful!
I dont know how accurate it is but on idle it showed a perfect 700RPM and that is good enough for me. Now I will not hear any of my passengers again .... "wow great driving car, but hey did you see the Tach/Clock or whatever else does not work?"
Now it works and things will get even better in the next few months. My sparepart box and the "new tool" box are full and ready to roll (waiting just for some warmer temps)
Bernhard

[Dexter_62]

Hi There, i am in the process of switching from positive to negative earth using the instructions in this thread. The bit i'm struggling with is the fuel pump as im not sure which of the 3 - 4 types i have. i have attached a picture and hope one of you more enlighten enthusiasts which be able to set me in the right direction as to which type i have and if i need to make any changes on this item.
thanks in advance
Keith

[SFCable]

Your post proved really helpful for the battery issues we are facing recently. But the major issues we are facing is with is the distributor located outside and the terminals attached frm positive to negative and negative to positive.

[cdmdotnet]

With regards to the old 3 coil current and voltage regulartors, what should I do to any of the leads to and from that? My ammeter is currently reading charge when it should read discharge and the warning light won't go out regardless of how much i rev it, so clearly I've got one or two leads to swap over.

[piman]

Hello Cdmdotnet,

for the sake of tidyness I would remove it. Do you have a manual to refer to the wiring diagram. Essentially you need to connect the ammeter (brown/white) wire to the alternator power terminal (large spades, assuming a Lucas alternator) and the brown yellow to the small terminal. The easiest way is to connect the brown/white to the brown/green wire at the control box area, that used to terminate at the dynamo. However, depending on your alternator rating, it may be better to use a larger section cable instead. Connect the brown/yellow wires together where they came from the voltage regulator. Normally this is done with the correct terminal block, available from various electrical suppliers to connect at the alternator.
Simply reverse the ammeter terminals to get it to indicate correctly.

If you are confused by electrical work or my explanation, please come back to me.

Alec

[piman]

Hello Cdmdotnet.

I think that my advice to use the brown/green will not work well as it is too small so a replacement heavy duty cable will be required.

Alec