16 MPG Normal?

[Flappers]

Thanks for your input all, struggling to find the correct part number for this MAF sensor. I am seeing identical sensors on eBay etc without bulbs and am wondering if this is, in fact, a working unit ?

[jeff1954]

Could well be Sam, do you know anyone that's got a similar model to yours that you could compare units with, or give David Manners (who advertise in our mag) a ring and find out what the replacement part looks like.

Jeff

[Flappers]

It's the correct part. I've exchanged it for a working unit and am still getting 10-15 MLS per gallon. So if I change the plugs and have the car terracleaned can anyone suggest what else could be the problem if it's still drinking too much, please ?

[J44EAG]

Possibly a Lambda sensor or two. Lambda controls fueling. May be even a cat gone bad, Sam.

Do you have the last emmisions results from the MOT? Does the car have a clean air filter?

Mike

[Flappers]

First chance I've had to sit down So yes, I've looked at the last MOT. No advisories ( no emissions from what I can see ) and it was only done in July. So hoping its a sensor. Air filter has been out and cleaned although it wasn't really needed. The car is at 60k miles at the moment but as previously stated, has been standing. Is there a way of testing the sensors and Is this the right one, please ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/111520579558?c ... 912&crdt=0

[J44EAG]

There are two Lambda sensors on each down pipe, Sam. The upstream unit is above the catalytic converter and as I remember has a grey plug. The downstream sensor is to the rear of the cat. That usually has a black plug. Buy only genuine Jaguar/Denso Lambda sensors from Manners, Gendon etc and avoid the non OE parts that are so common on eBay.

To diagnose, you really either need to get a garage with IDS dealer level diagnostic gear or stump up for the iCarsoft 930i diagnostic tool at around £100. I see they have just bought out a later unit known as a LR11. That has more functions and is worth investigation. That seems priced at around £140 which is similar to the appropriate Foxwell tools which a couple of guys here operate.

Rather cheaper and well worth getting is an ELM327 V1.5 blue tooth chip from ebay. The cost is about £6. That works with a Torque Pro download app for about £20 and uses an Iphone or an Android phone. PTJS1 and I set up Lambda ossilographs on my Android and that showed us I had flat lining NSR sensor gone duff. Cheap and cheerful as it is, the ELM327 and other parts work quite well.

All units show fault codes and have a code clearance facility. I won`t travel without one. My ELM unit stays almost permanently in the OBD port. That makes for quick linking to my Android phone and can help me clear a PO430 fault code which can sometimes occur if I`m over enthusiastic with my methanol injection system on a cold day. The brew can cause a catalytic converter to catch a chill during winter months!

Mike

[Flappers]

Went and picked up my brother and went for a drive out. I pushed the car for the first time on a quiet b road and up popped the engine symbol on the dash. Then it began flashing (orange) and developed a misfire. I limped home and found the bluetooth test unit you suggested Mike. (pictured) It's connected to the phone but won't hook up to the unit... Just can't get it to work

Does this sound like a cat failure.?

[J44EAG]

Very hard to say, Sam without the car linked to diagnostic gear. Gut feeling ....perhaps a coil or plug gone down.

The ELM units are really only suitable for Android or Iphone. It sounds as if you have some kind of connectivity issue. Presumably you have the phone blue tooth working on your phone...I suppose you must have. You do need to get the Torque Pro download app to make it all function.

If you don`t mind forking out about £100, then the iCarsoft 930i or the latest LR11 is a bulletproof way to progress. Nothing like a proper dedicated scanner. Mine has proved its worth on many occasions.

Really sorry I can`t help further with the connectivity issue. Do you have a local bod who is a wizzer with this kind of phone issue?

Let us know how you progress.

Mike

[Flappers]

Hi again. OK, all the plugs changed. Oil leak addressed on the rocker seals.,all gaskets replaced on the top. A couple of hoses replaced that looked perished. Needle valves replaced. Told it was finished and working fine and within 30 min at running temperature the misfire reappeared. The garage have done several "sniff" tests and the head gaskets seem to be fine. He's had the car two weeks now, and - although he is not charging me now - I only paid 700 for it and all ready I'm over a grand in the hole with it... Anyone suggest anything for this please? By the way Mike it was piston 4 that was down on the diagnostic. The garage put it down to the oil leak but now that seems unlikely. This misfire only appears at temperature. Runs fine from cold.

[J44EAG]

This sounds very much like a coil or more that have gone down, Sam.

This does happen if you have been running with old and time expired plugs. Duff plugs are death to coils. Fitting new plugs may have exacerbated the issue but the upside is that it will make the culprit more identifiable. Misfires of this nature generally occur when the engine is under load on a hill. When I had a coil go down, the misfires would in such circumstances occur at 1600 and 2300 rpm. If you have the Torque going now, I would have thought a fault code would be generated to show whether Bank A or B and on which cylinder. You might buy a genuine OE coil and try substituting along a cylinder bank until hopefully the misfire goes.

Obviously the spark plug wells need to be devoid of oil or coolant. Coil rubber boots should be clean and free from contamination. Even rubber can track high voltage current to ground when impregnated with carbon and even oil. Pull those coil boots off and clean well with brake cleaner or acetone. Look for any signs of burning on the coil bases. I`d certainly be trying a new coil on plug 4 as a starting point as you have previously had an issue with that pot.

The iCarsoft or new LR11 give better specific information than the ELM/Android set up. Each have there own particular benefits. I often think owners should all be obliged to buy one of these units. When problems strike, a decent diagnostic tool is invaluable and can save many trips and costs of asking a garage to plug your car in. Sadly as a complex car ages, maintenance or investigative bills can rocket. That`s why a cars value can plummet in old age and what seemed like a cheap car suddenly becomes a money pit.

Keep at it. For every problem there is a cause. The tricky bit is pin pointing the problem. Once found, the cause then appears obvious.

Mike

[Flappers]

Thanks for your reply Mike. Just looking at the receipt and whats been replaced :

Rocker cover gaskets x4
Thermostat x1
Spark Plugs x6
Pencil Coils x3
Internal spark plug gasket x2
3" Breather pipe
Heater Valve

I wrote "Needle Valves" in my half sleep at 4 am, meant to say Pencil Coils So he's replaced the coils under the manifold, the difficult ones to get to and that's as far as its got. The fan ran on on the two times I parked it up following the misfire and he's thinking its something to do with it getting hot... The only time that fan has over-run before was when that header tank cracked. That's replaced and holding (first thing I checked) pressure. The heating now works, not tested the air con, not sure if that can be a culprit?

[J44EAG]

Try replacing the cylinder heat temperature sensor. From about 80k miles they get unreliable. Done two myself at that mileage. They pass information back to the engine ecu. If they go duff, then fueling and ignition parameters become compromised. Only buy genuine Jaguar sensors. Cost is around £23. Avoid after-market units like the plague. Genuine units have a grey colour plastic socket.

I`d still look towards the remaining three old coils as suspects.

Hope that helps.

[Flappers]

Is this the part please Mike AJ810031*.?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2364471122