radiator's

[xtypebod]

Hi Guys anybody able to help.

Got the radiator out without disturbing the aircon radiator.

Jaguar tell me I need part number XR82935 This radiator has the oil cooler enclosed for automatic cars.

Ok I have got my rad out and the oil cooler is separate slotted down between the rad and the aircon rad !!!! what should I fit, will the rad with the oil cooler in be less efficent, or do I need to take out the oil cooler and connect all to the new rad.
Your help would be of great assistance time for 2 hour lunch break coffee and Brandy in the sun on the terrace, Great living in France. Thanks Tony

[Martec]

My comments are from the standpoint of an old (MY2000) 3 ltr manual. As you have an auto I assume the built in oil cooler is for the auto gearbox and not the power steering oil? If you got your radiator out easily then it is different to mine.

Have you got a cooler arrangement for your gearbox?

Brian

[xtypebod]

Hello Brian , yes I have a separate oil cooler for the gearbox, the radiator I have taken out has no connections other than the top and bottom hose, I have a new rad on the way XR82935 the Jaguar specified replacement part number. Looking forward to seeing what turns up. will keep you posted . Thanks Tony.

[xtypebod]

All up together again, unfortunately I had to take the air-con condenser and oil cooler out as there was no way the radiator was going in put them all together and he presto slipped in from the bottom must have been some water left in the block as I could only get 9 ltrs of coolant back in.

Off to the garage for re gassing on Tuesday 59 euros at the main ford garage,
I also found the correct motorcraft jag spec coolant at the ford garage, 56 euros, radiator jac spec from a parts supplier reduced from 286 euros on offer at 167 euros. Job done for 300 euros including new clips for bottom tray. Not bad about £240.

Thanks for the help and advice.

[jeff1954]

Good result. Keep your eye on the water level for the next couple of days for air locks etc.

Jeff

[latebreaker]

Glad to hear you're up and running again.

Krish

[xtypebod]

Thanks Jeff and Krish,

Over to the UK Friday, thanks for the advise on checking level, topped up 1/2 litre this morning.
Start on the abs on the XK8 when I return from the uk.

[xtypebod]

Thanks for the tip on checking the water, Went to uk and had to top up twice, then ok


8 weeks on and the air co is now not going ice cold, any ideas, Thanks Tony.

[xtypebod]

Sq eak on belt tensioner , had a new one fitted three years ago by a garage.

I have ordered a new one from british parts, any comments ideas on fitting. Thanks Tony.

[Martec]

Hi,

I had to change my engine a few months ago so everything was removed from the old engine and fitted to the replacement one. I wrote an article on its removal and refit and sent it in, but it has all disappeared!!

Basically everything is very easy and comes apart with just a few bolts. I can't remember precisely but get a big spanner on the tensioner, heave it to the drivers side and slip the belt of one of the easily reached pulley.

The tensioner arm is then not under tension and the bolts holding it to the front cover (3 I think) can be removed and the arm removed to work on the idler.

This is what I did for a 3 ltr petrol engine, the others may be similar, best of luck. If the old one went in 3 years it maybe worth using a straight edge to make sure the pulleys are in line and so not loading up the idler bearing.

Brian

[oldtimer]

Brian, Xtypebod
V6 Petrol S type.
Might be worth a look re above
Brian, you have just jogged my memory. A while back I had an odd under bonnet noise and convinced myself that it was the Air Con pump. With the car up on the lift I discovered the belt was shredded - not obvious at the time - new belt fitted. Looking up, I thought the Air Con and Crank pulleys were out of alignment. As you know space is limited to put straight edges in and I wasn't going to make a special tool for that. After plenty of deliberation I discovered that the bonding of the crankshaft damper had failed allowing the mass weight to move forward about a 1/4 of an inch. Belt alignment restored with new damper and perfect since.

Can you imagine the damage if the damper had broken free !!!???

Oldtimer

[J44EAG]

From early years, the V6 was always prone to crank damper pulley disintegration. First visible as a pulley wobble.

we don`t hear much about that issue. Perhaps later parts are more robust?

Always worth keeping an eye on those units, especially as mileage and age accumulate.

No issue with that on a V8! I`m alright, Jack.

Mike

[xtypebod]

Hello Mike, thanks for the info on the barrats catalogue.

I have the problem I think with the pulleu out of allignment, iis it an easy fix to replace the pulle. do I need to take the rad and the aircon rad out to fit a new one. thanks Tony

[J44EAG]

I wouldn`t have thought so. Probably unbolt, tease it forward with a thin lever bar and watch it drop off the crank. The register is probably only two inches long. Brian can possibly confirm.

Your issue will be stopping the crank turning as you undo or tighten the bolt. Bell housing lower plate may have to come off to allow you to insert a pin or drill to lock up the flywheel.

Mike

[xtypebod]

Thanks Mike, will come back if I have a probablem. regards Tony