Boot lock and found a useful link

[steve_m]

Now suffering back strain and eye ache having spent several hours web surfing looking for a diagram of the boot lock assembly on a 1993 XJS Coupe.
I found a link to a diagram on the Jag Forums website but had to register to access it.
Duly registered (after several attempts) and eventually found a picture but do not know if it is the right assembly; can anyone confirm if it is the correct one?
Dammit, I can't post a pdf. file. And can't save it is a jpeg either.
Ok, can anyone source a diagram of the lock assembly?
The lock works with the key, even to the extent that you can't remove the key without locking it first. The relay works fine (I can hear it) when using the key in the driver or passenger door lock but the boot will not unlock.
I am presuming that there is some sort of mechanical link between the actuator and the release mechanism which has failed/fallen off.
How difficult is it to remove the assembly without ending up with a boot full of springs, washers, levers, cams, rods, teeth (sic).
The useful link is http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xjs-32/t-s-b-s-27319/ because somebody (apologies as I forgot to note their name) has posted pdf files of a huge amount of TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins) which are extremely useful.
Steve

[PaulGover]

...
The lock works with the key, even to the extent that you can't remove the key without locking it first. The relay works fine (I can hear it) when using the key in the driver or passenger door lock but the boot will not unlock.
...

Can you clarify please - can you unlock the boot with the key in the boot lock, and if so, is your problem that the boot does not unlock when you unlock the driver/passenger doors?

If so, you probably haven't turned the boot lock all the way counter-clockwise (using the key, of course) before returning the key to the vertical position and removing it. Turning it fully counter-clockwise sets it into "controlled by central locking", whereas turning it fully clockwise sets it into "ignore central locking, only unlockable by key".

If turning it counter-clockwise doesn't work, it's possible the link has come unhooked, but that's rare as they have captive clips as part of the bushing that are pretty reliable. As far as I recall, you shouldn't need to dismantle the locks, the mechanism is visible through the gaps in the boot lid liner around the lock; if any links are detached they should be obvious, as probably should be what to do. All it costs is the skin off a set of knuckles to reconnect the link and put the captive clip back on.

If your problem is that it doesn't unlock with the key in the boot lock, then there are descriptions of where to drill a hole in the boot lid to access the linkage.

[steve_m]

Hi Paul
Thanks for the reply.
Everything works fine apart from the fact that the boot will not unlock from the doors.
The relay in the boot works (I had she who must be obeyed grumpily operate it from both doors) with a most satisfying 'clunk'.
I can lock the boot with the key and unlock it, no problem. I cannot take the key out of the lock unless it is in the 'locked' position which I presume is a design feature to prevent you accidentally locking the keys in the boot. (I spent quite a while on the Jag Forum website (USA?) looking for a resolution and after loads of responses to the guy who had locked his keys in the boot he discovered that if you just pushed the growler it was a boot opening button).
It is not a valet key problem because the car does not have that option.
It worked one day, did not work the next.
It is definitely a mechanical linkage problem. I peeld a bit of the boot lid trim off but was reluctant to go any further due to previous comment about bits falling over the place.
Anyway, rare as it may be I think that the connection between the actuator and the lock has come adrift: all I want is an exploded diagram (I've looked) of what is in there so that I can visualize it before I attack it with a chain saw.
Simples.
Steve

[ptjs1]

steve m,

I wasn't sure from your post whether the problem is unlocking the boot lock from the central locking or whether you can't actually open the boot once it is unlocked?

As PaulGover has alluded to, in order for the boot lock to be operated from the door flaps or remote fob, the boot lock has to be set to the "auto" position.

As you've now been manually locking and unlocking the boot, you need to start off by locking the doors, then put the key in the boot lock and turn the key anticlockwise to the 9 o'clock position, then turn back to the vertical position. The boot lock should then be linked to the central locking and you should then be able to unlock the boot using the door lock flaps.

Pre-facelift cars used a typical lock actuator which worked on the rear of the lock and barrel. However, I can't see an actuator on the parts diagram for a facelift car. Have a look at the parts diagram for both facelift and pre-facelift cars and you'll see what I mean about the differences.

As you can see, the facelift cars do use a microswitch in the lock latch itself and maybe that's how the central locking works on facelift cars?

Confusingly, the facelift service manual does have a section on removing a boot lock actuator but the picture and words seem to relate to pre-facelift cars, so I think it may be an error in the publication.

There is a notable omission in the service manual on anything to do with dismantling the lock itself. However, as the lock seems to be working fine with the key and latch lever, this wouldn't seem to be your issue anyway,

If central locking of the boot is achieved through the latch microswitch, then the parts diagram shows all the components fairly clearly in terms of how you would remove it. If you do need to replace it, the latch isn't available new but it would be easy to source a used part.

Good luck

Paul

[almcl]

I cannot take the key out of the lock unless it is in the 'locked' position which I presume is a design feature

No, afraid it isn't. You should be able to remove the key in the vertical position. If you can't and have to turn it all the way clockwise that is why you can't unlock the boot with the doors and the reason it won't come out in the vertical needs to be addressed.

From the handbook (page 32)

Manual Only Operation
To lock: Insert key in the vertical position, turn 90° clockwise and remove. With the lock in this position it cannot be operated electrically.

It is not a valet key problem because the car does not have that option.

I agree it probably isn't a valet key problem but your reasoning may be out. The cars were supplied with up to three keys (market dependent). One was all metal and only opens the doors, a black plastic one, which opens everything and green one which is sometimes referred to as the valet key and will not unlock the boot. This is quite independent of any valet switch or other feature. UK cars usually came with one green and two black. If someone has cut a replacement using the green key you might well have issues with boot opening, but this doesn't sound like your problem.

[steve_m]

Thanks for the responses guys.
I'm away for a week so I'll have a look when I get back.
Does the fact that I can hear the boot lock relay operate when the driver's lock is used make any difference to trying to reset with the key?
Steve

[almcl]

Does the fact that I can hear the boot lock relay operate when the driver's lock is used make any difference to trying to reset with the key?

Don't think so.

My hearing is pretty shot, so I can't distinguish between the boot lock solenoid and the door ones, but I can certainly feel it operate when the key is withdrawn at both the full right and vertical positions.

Operating the door lock only unlocks the boot if the key has been removed from the boot lock in the vertical position.

[steve_m]

Result!
I followed PTJS-1's advice but still no luck as the key would not come out at the 12 o'clock position only at the 3 o'clock one.
I went and got the other key and bingo, it worked!
The 'master' key will go in and out at the 12 o'clock position but the other one will only go in and out at the 3 o'clock position.
Once reset, both keys will lock and unlock the boot from the driver's door lock.
I was quoted over £200 last year to sort out the boot lock but as I am the only person who uses the car I didn't bother forking out that amount for a minor inconvenience.
Same with the electric mirrors; they stopped working 2 years ago but as the only driver I never needed to adjust them; a quick strip down of the toggle assembly and a bit of fine emery cloth and they sprang back into life.
Thanks for all the input guys (and gals), it just goes to show the value of a bulletin board.
Now to investigate the disappearing transmission fluid and hot running on the Cabriolet.
Steve

[steve_m]

I remember now how it all started.
I read an article somewhere, ages ago, about the necessity of using the key in the boot lock from time to time to prevent the mechanism from getting all gunged up so that if the central locking did fail you would still be able to open the boot with the key.
It looks like that I used the wrong key at some time and locked out the boot lock from the central locking system.
Steve

[dhdove]

Congrats Steve - chalk another one up for the BB

BTW nice one Paul and Al.....

TonyS