Hi,
I am considering upgrading the stock brake discs and pads (EBC Performance Brake Upgrade), and wanted to know:
1) Anyone tried those? Are they any good?
2) I'm planning on doing the job myself. Any particular difficulties in doing the swap? Any tricks?
Thanks a ton!
Cheers,
Gonzalo
How difficult is it to change discs in an X-Type?
Moderators:Dave Eynon, steveisleofwight
Re: How difficult is it to change discs in an X-Type?
I`ve recently changed may discs and pads on my S-type.
I`ve fitted a cross drilled and grooved performance after market set together with standard pads sourced from ebay. You can read about this mod on the XK8 Forum Brakes section where Nik, Mike H and myself discuss the pro`s and con`s of modifications. The post thread is entitled "Brembo brakes and wishbone bushes". You will also find a link to the site within the postings of the supplier I obtained my discs from.
As discs and pads are normal service items, the change is fairly simple normal practice. However, as the work must be carried out with complete working integrity, the person carrying out the work must be competent to do the work and have a reasonable working knowledge of what he is doing and know how a braking system works. Mere enthusiasm is not enough! It is likely that a piston retraction tool such as the Laser 1314 unit would have to be used on the back brakes. This unit again is a common service tool and you will find many of these tools listed on ebay or available through normal retail outlets such as Halfords.
There are many aftermarket disc conversion/upgrade kits on the market and your choice is not limited solely to EBC equipment. EBC have an excellent reputation for turning out top range braking components but the equipment comes at a hefty price. You pays your money and takes your choice.
Red Stuff pad material is a high quality that is suitable for track and road going use. It has a reputation for longevity, resistance to brake fade and lack of brake dust. It is however rather more expensive than standard material. The material is good to have for spirited road driving, but in my experience, a decent standard pad material is quite adiquate for road use and becomes even more useful when modified discs are fitted which are better at dispersing heat, brake gases and excess brake dust by product.
Having fitted the uprated discs to my S, I can report that the brakes have more bite and are rather more re assuring than the car was before the modification. There is more noise generated under moderate to heavy braking situations. This is a normal occurance with grooved discs.
I see no need at present to upgrade to Red Stuff or similar pads at present. I now have more than enough stopping power using standard pads in a road going application.
There are tips with installation of any component part. There are however no tricks. Magicians do tricks and any quess work must be avoided.
Clean brake callipers of road dirt and corrosion, especially where the brake pads run in the callipers. Use a copper based antiseize grease on moving surfaces. Ensure the calliper handbrake mechanism is fully functional. Failure to do so will almost certainly case brake drag. After installation, check that all road wheels are cool to the touch. Any brake drag will be evident by a warm or even hot road wheel.
The importance of correct and competent installation techniques can`t be over emphasised. If in doubt, ask a suitably qualified person for advice or employ someone with experience of this type of work.
Mike
I`ve fitted a cross drilled and grooved performance after market set together with standard pads sourced from ebay. You can read about this mod on the XK8 Forum Brakes section where Nik, Mike H and myself discuss the pro`s and con`s of modifications. The post thread is entitled "Brembo brakes and wishbone bushes". You will also find a link to the site within the postings of the supplier I obtained my discs from.
As discs and pads are normal service items, the change is fairly simple normal practice. However, as the work must be carried out with complete working integrity, the person carrying out the work must be competent to do the work and have a reasonable working knowledge of what he is doing and know how a braking system works. Mere enthusiasm is not enough! It is likely that a piston retraction tool such as the Laser 1314 unit would have to be used on the back brakes. This unit again is a common service tool and you will find many of these tools listed on ebay or available through normal retail outlets such as Halfords.
There are many aftermarket disc conversion/upgrade kits on the market and your choice is not limited solely to EBC equipment. EBC have an excellent reputation for turning out top range braking components but the equipment comes at a hefty price. You pays your money and takes your choice.
Red Stuff pad material is a high quality that is suitable for track and road going use. It has a reputation for longevity, resistance to brake fade and lack of brake dust. It is however rather more expensive than standard material. The material is good to have for spirited road driving, but in my experience, a decent standard pad material is quite adiquate for road use and becomes even more useful when modified discs are fitted which are better at dispersing heat, brake gases and excess brake dust by product.
Having fitted the uprated discs to my S, I can report that the brakes have more bite and are rather more re assuring than the car was before the modification. There is more noise generated under moderate to heavy braking situations. This is a normal occurance with grooved discs.
I see no need at present to upgrade to Red Stuff or similar pads at present. I now have more than enough stopping power using standard pads in a road going application.
There are tips with installation of any component part. There are however no tricks. Magicians do tricks and any quess work must be avoided.
Clean brake callipers of road dirt and corrosion, especially where the brake pads run in the callipers. Use a copper based antiseize grease on moving surfaces. Ensure the calliper handbrake mechanism is fully functional. Failure to do so will almost certainly case brake drag. After installation, check that all road wheels are cool to the touch. Any brake drag will be evident by a warm or even hot road wheel.
The importance of correct and competent installation techniques can`t be over emphasised. If in doubt, ask a suitably qualified person for advice or employ someone with experience of this type of work.
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: How difficult is it to change discs in an X-Type?
Thanks a ton for the advise, Mike.
Concerning the upgrade of discs and pads, my main motivation is that I'm quite often driving in Germany, in the Autobahn. And to be frank, the X-Type's stopping power from 130+ MPH is quite appalling. The brakes bite in, you shed ~20 MPH (I am aware that this is a huge amount of energy) quite fast but then you start to have less and less braking capacity. By the time you hit 90 MPH you might as well open the windows to increase drag...
I've already replaced discs and pads on other cars (BMW 318, Rover 200, Renault 21, Renault 9), but I wanted to know if there was some little piece of knowledge that may simplify things or traps to avoid. I've probably used the wrong word for this (tricks), but since English is not my mother tongue, I will make some errors here and there.
Cheers,
Gonzalo
Concerning the upgrade of discs and pads, my main motivation is that I'm quite often driving in Germany, in the Autobahn. And to be frank, the X-Type's stopping power from 130+ MPH is quite appalling. The brakes bite in, you shed ~20 MPH (I am aware that this is a huge amount of energy) quite fast but then you start to have less and less braking capacity. By the time you hit 90 MPH you might as well open the windows to increase drag...
I've already replaced discs and pads on other cars (BMW 318, Rover 200, Renault 21, Renault 9), but I wanted to know if there was some little piece of knowledge that may simplify things or traps to avoid. I've probably used the wrong word for this (tricks), but since English is not my mother tongue, I will make some errors here and there.
Cheers,
Gonzalo
Re: How difficult is it to change discs in an X-Type?
Given your very high speed use of your car, you have a case for a good brake conversion kit.
I would suggest drilled or dimpled discs, or drilled and grooved discs. Dimpled discs are said to be better for shedding heat as a larger swept disc area is present. However grooved discs are particuarly good at de glazing pads and keeping the running surfaces clear of brake dust debris.
Terox, EBC and Black Diamond are popular manufacturers. They all produce disc and pad kits. Prices vary between manufacturers who all have slightly different ideas. Alternatively, if you do not wish to pay brand name prices and obtain parts at lower prices, then there are several other manufacturers products that are worth investigation. It is suprizing what deals you can obtain with careful research and hard bargaining with a supplier.
If you decide to go the EBC route, Geoff Adams at Adamesh will be able to supply what you require. He is a good man to do business with. Mention that you are a JEC member. You might also consider lowering and stiffening the springs to improve handling, ride quality and resistance to front end vehicle dive under hard braking conditions. Geoff will also be able to help you with these items. His prices are good and the parts do what are claimed of them. His spring kit has transformed my car and makes driving more relaxed and vastly less stressful. Cost is around £200 for a full set of top quality springs. You may use your existing dampers with such springs.
Remember to fit all discs with drillings or groove pointing in the correct direction of travel. This will assist with cooling.
Mike
I would suggest drilled or dimpled discs, or drilled and grooved discs. Dimpled discs are said to be better for shedding heat as a larger swept disc area is present. However grooved discs are particuarly good at de glazing pads and keeping the running surfaces clear of brake dust debris.
Terox, EBC and Black Diamond are popular manufacturers. They all produce disc and pad kits. Prices vary between manufacturers who all have slightly different ideas. Alternatively, if you do not wish to pay brand name prices and obtain parts at lower prices, then there are several other manufacturers products that are worth investigation. It is suprizing what deals you can obtain with careful research and hard bargaining with a supplier.
If you decide to go the EBC route, Geoff Adams at Adamesh will be able to supply what you require. He is a good man to do business with. Mention that you are a JEC member. You might also consider lowering and stiffening the springs to improve handling, ride quality and resistance to front end vehicle dive under hard braking conditions. Geoff will also be able to help you with these items. His prices are good and the parts do what are claimed of them. His spring kit has transformed my car and makes driving more relaxed and vastly less stressful. Cost is around £200 for a full set of top quality springs. You may use your existing dampers with such springs.
Remember to fit all discs with drillings or groove pointing in the correct direction of travel. This will assist with cooling.
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
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