I am trying to replace the splined hubs on the rear axle and am unable to remove them using a puller . I do not have the recommended Churchill puller . Does anyone have experience of successfully removing the hubs. Thanks.
splined hub removal from rear axle
Moderators:Aceman, ecosselynx
Hi,
Even with the correct puller it can be very hard to 'break the taper' and remove the hubs.
Someone on another forum suggested undoing the securing nut by a turn and then driving quietly around the block, this will ease the hub down the taper.
I don't know it it would work, if you try this it would be worth refitting the split pin to limit the movement.
Brian
Even with the correct puller it can be very hard to 'break the taper' and remove the hubs.
Someone on another forum suggested undoing the securing nut by a turn and then driving quietly around the block, this will ease the hub down the taper.
I don't know it it would work, if you try this it would be worth refitting the split pin to limit the movement.
Brian
Hi Brian Thanks for your reply . I have now removed the hubs from the shaft by the following method . First a standard manually operated puller was tried and failed . Next a hydrualic puller was tried and failed . It became apparent that an extreme method was required . The lock nuts holding the wheel bearing carrier to the axle were split using a suitable chisel which enabled the half shaft assembly to be removed complete . The shaft assembly was taken to the workshop and put into an hydraulic press . The hub parted company from the shaft with a very loud crack and 22 tonnes of pressure . I hope this may be of help for anyone tackling this job in the future.
Regards Bernie.
Regards Bernie.
Hi Bernie,
When I did mine I think I phoned Ken Jenkins at 'Watjag', but the pinion torgue is very high at 120-130lbft and will be enough. After all the idea is to drive the hub up the taper far enough for the interferance fit to take braking and acceleration loads, and the nut stops it coming back down the taper.
Ken Jenkins advise is the safest bet.
Brian
When I did mine I think I phoned Ken Jenkins at 'Watjag', but the pinion torgue is very high at 120-130lbft and will be enough. After all the idea is to drive the hub up the taper far enough for the interferance fit to take braking and acceleration loads, and the nut stops it coming back down the taper.
Ken Jenkins advise is the safest bet.
Brian
Hi Brian
Thanks for your response and advice . I have pushed the hub onto the taper shaft to the point where the taper is locking and then gradually torqued up until I was able to put the split pin through the nut and shaft . The final torque setting at this point was approx 100 ft/lbs.
Regards Bernie.
Thanks for your response and advice . I have pushed the hub onto the taper shaft to the point where the taper is locking and then gradually torqued up until I was able to put the split pin through the nut and shaft . The final torque setting at this point was approx 100 ft/lbs.
Regards Bernie.
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