S24.2 L full rebuild - what else should I consider doing?

[kevin.hillyer884]

I am having my engine completely overhauled and rebuilt - long story - but the block is back from re-bore and the crankshaft is freshly ground and was fitted today.

Are there any other jobs/mods that I really should consider asking for at the same time? It is an expensive job already BUT would be annoying to miss something now that would have been much easier at this stage.

I have specified electronic ignition and hi torque starter motor already

I have considered an uprated oil pump (thinking more oil pressure would be good for longevity)
It was suggested I get a 6 branch exhaust manifold made to connect to my existing exhaust

I am an E-type novice so would welcome any suggestions or advice

Thank you

[PPV]

What is the oil seal on the rear of the crankshaft? Worth considering if it leaked before. I presume as it is a rebuild that core plugs will be changed and the water passages cleaned etc.
Good luck, worth doing right if you are having it done as it is a big lump to work on.

[piman]

Hello Kevin,

What electronic ignition, there are many some OK, some not so good.
Why a high torque starter, the original is perfectly suitable as long as it is in good condition.
Likewise the standard oil pump is fine and doesn't need uprating, all a larger capacity pump does is open the relief valve wider.
Funnily enough I saw about three diffeernt tubular manifolds ilustrated in the latest Jaguar Enthusiast's magazine and while attractive to look at their designs are terrible. An effective manifold need the length of the primary pipes to be of the correct length and more importantly be equal in length. This is difficult and expensive to do so most manufacturers of after market manifolds simply do not bother.
A liitle story, Ron Dennis of Maclaren formula one team many years ago rejected a suppliers manifold for their engine as the primaries varied by 3/8" (10 mm approx)

Alec

[kevin.hillyer884]

Thank you for your thoughts, much appreciated.

I am not sure what electronic ignition - I know the guy carrying out the work has one that he has fitted on several others and is happy with - I shall find out.

Understood about oil pump - makes sense.

And I shall look more into the exhaust manifold option - seems that there is more research and consideration needed.

The starter was sluggish and I had read elsewhere it was a fairly common mod.

Thanks again, Kevin

[piman]

Hello Kevin,

if the starter is sluggish then it may be worn, but alternatively it could be the supply or earthing that is below par.
I don't know the relative cost between the two so if a new starter is definitely required then it's your choice.

With electronic ignition systems there are those that basically replace the points or there are such as the 123 which have a set number of curves which you select by switching or their alternative version which is infinitely prorgrammable by a computer. I don't believe the former is a good choice as it is most unlikely to have one that is ideal. I hear many reports nbout how much better their car ran after fitting this version but that indicates that the original distributor is worn out and not functioning correctly. Personally I like to have a company called The Distributor Doctor do a full overhaul and set up and if required an electronic switching of the points can also be fitted. Again your choice but using electronic switching of the points on an old and worn distributor is unlikely to give the best results. The programmable 123 will do a good job assuming it is programmed correctly, but may need a rolling road session or two to do that?

Alec

[JerryL770]

I had a standard 123 distributor fitted when mine was rebuilt and it is fine. Not having driven other E-types I could not say whether it is better or worse than any other type. The more expensive version with selectable advance curves could be played with but I think you would only see the difference from rolling road testing or against a stopwatch on the open road.

A 6 branch SS exhaust manifold on an otherwise standard engine is a complete waste of money and will cause a dip in the torque curve around 2500 - 3000 rpm - especially if it is a 2" version. Better to stick to the standard manifolds. If you go for new ceramic coated ones you need to "run-them-in" to make them last but even then, if you go out in the rain with the car, braking moderately with a flooded/wet bonnet causes the cold water to fall through the louvres onto the hot manifolds, cracking the ceramic coating. I suspect some of the barbecue paints are better, look fine and can be re-coated easily.