Voltage stabilizer

[ccooper174]

Hi, I am having trouble finding and fitting a new voltage stabilizer.
I have had three stabilizers supplied by a well known spares company and none of them seems to work in that the water and fuel gauges do not function properly.
I have tested the voltage going into the units at 12 volts but the out put is only showing 4 .43 volts instead of 10 volts.
I have just recently purchased another unit from another well known auto electrical company and this recent unit when tested showed input 12 volts output 0 volts.

The units seem identical so has there been a batch supplied which is faulty?
Or is there any other reason that I cannot get the units to function properly?

[piman]

Hello Cooper,

that sounds unusual? Are you checking the voltage without the instruments connected , and what sort of meter are you using to check the stabiliser? It is not a level voltage but an average as the unit is a make and break device. Having said that, do your instruments work is connected directly, by passing the relay. They should work normally but give a high reading.

The other point, if my memeory is correct, the stabiliser must have a good earth to the case, and without that you should read battery voltage at the output with no instrument connected.

Alec

[PPV]

Hi, there should be a 3 connections, B, E and I to the voltage regulator. The fuel and water gauges are connected to the 'I' terminal on the voltage regulator and this terminal should read 10 volts when operational. The engine oil pressure gauge has a 12 volt connection which is the 'B' terminal if I remember and this is also the battery supply. It seems very strange that they are all playing up. The water and fuel gauge wires should be coloured LG G with the oil pressure one being G (green) from the voltage regulator. The casing as stated is earthed.
Regards,

[ccooper174]

Hi Alec and piman,
Thank you for your input.
I have tested all the offending units outside of the vehicle on a separate battery for my results.
The gauges do both read high with gauges connected and without the stabilizer.
I am waiting to contact my last supplier on Tuesday 19th Dec to see if they will supply another unit.
Many thanks for your help, Colin.

[ccooper174]

Hi all,
I have progressed with my voltage stabilizer problem in that I have obtained one that works!
Not from any large suppliers but from a man that reconditions old ones.
I have connected and fitted back this reconditioned unit and the petrol gauge reads 3/4s full which is about right for the amount of fuel in the tank.
The temperature gauge reads hot when the engine is at normal temperature so I am now going to renew the water sender unit and fingers crossed that the new item works as it should.
I will keep you all posted.
Colin.

[ccooper174]

The sequence of events so far. Petrol gauge works as it should but the temp gauge reads hot all the time.
To remedy this I have renewed the temp sender unit and the gauge still read high.
I then renewed the temp gauge, now both the petrol and temp gauges read as they should when the ignition is turned on. However, now when I start the engine both the petrol and the temp gauges both fall back to zero.
Can anyone explain to me what is happening and what is the next step in rectifying this problem.
Thank you Colin.

[piman]

Hello Colin,

as both are affected it would indicate a loss of supply, do things like the indicators work as they are fed from a common fuse. if they are ok then it's a check of the voltage regulator connections. There isnt much more? (I think the two instruments will be daisy chained on their supply so as both are not working it must be downstream from them.)

Alec

[Tintin]

Hi Colin

I had a similar issue and changed my voltage stabiliser unnecessarily (1971 Daimler Sovereign). It turned out that every time I went into the electrics behind the dash panel I was disturbing a loose connection the result of which was random operation of the gauges - nothing at all to do with the components I was swapping over. I agree with Alec - check all connections and voltage supplies.

Robbie

[ccooper174]

Hi Alex and Robin.
Sounds logical, I will try that and make sure that all the connections are secure.
Thank you Colin.

[ccooper174]

Sorry Correction.....Alec and Robbie

[ccooper174]

Hi all,
The petrol gauge is working as it should but the new water temp gauge that I have recently fitted still reads high. I will fit a independent temp gauge to the heater rail where the transmitter is fitted to check that the engine temp is acceptable when hot. Then take it from there.
Many thanks for your help.
Colin

[ccooper174]

Ongoing water temperature gauge still reading high. I have put two temperature strips, one on the radiator and one on the inlet rail. They both read 70degs, which when running is normal, so I am happy that the engine is running at the normal temperature, although the gauge still reads 110Degs.
I have recently found out that the gauge and the sender units when the cars were first built were supposed to be paired. How can I obtain a matching pair if this is the case? Does any body know if this information is true?