XE Battery replacement

[BookerME]

Has anyone got any recent experience in replacing a battery in an XE please?
Which make, model & size of battery to use?
Any do’s and don’ts fitting it myself?
Any problems you may have had?

Thanks in advance, Mac.

[mike020150]

There are several different batteries fitted to the XE, dependent upon model and market so it's as well to check the current one for its details. For a UK market S model, it is likely to be an H6 AGM unit of 70AH with a cold cranking capacity of 760 CCA.
If you change the battery yourself, ensure you add the BMS electrical connector to the module before installing the BMS on to the battery terminal and make sure the clamping lug on the BMS is set below the top of the negative terminal post. Apart from resetting the radio, clock and windows, the BMS will need to be reset by a dealer or Jaguar specialist with the appropriate equipment or the charging rate will be too high. Mike.

[BookerME]

Thanks Mike, I thought I could rely on you for a decent heads-up!

As I suspected, not quite so plain sailing. It’s almost certainly the original battery from early 2015. It’s a 10655 AD 80Ah, with the code AGM/VRLA/MF on it which doesn’t mean anything to me really, so I’ll need to do some more research.
I did wonder about piggy-backing a spare battery to the charging points in the engine bay with jump leads if-and-when I disconnect the old one to try and retain the various settings. What do you think?

I was a bit concerned driving home yesterday when the battery light came on suddenly. I stopped and restarted it and it cleared the error but only for about 400 yards before it came on again and I drove home with the battery light on.
It could be any number of things really but without the right equipment and knowledge to check things out, I’m shooting in the dark.
My ‘specialist’ equipment is limited to a Multimeter!
I’ll take it for a local run later and see if the red light appears.

[Marineng]

Hi Mac,

I have not actually changed the battery on an XE but like you I did think that it should be possible to keep power on the car's systems by using a spare battery or charger connected to the terminals at the front of the car. However, considerable care must acompany this activity, as the positive lead on the battery remains live even when it is disconnected from the battery, which is probably why the Jaguar manual refers the owner to the 'retailer/authorised repairer' when the battery requires changing

Using your multimeter the terminal voltage of a good battery should be around 12.7v to 13.2v. If the voltage is low then run the engine and measure the voltage again. with the engine revs higher than tick over the voltage should come up, to maybe as high as 14v if the alternator is working well. If the battery still will not hold its charge then it could be on its way out, especially at the age that you have suggested for the one on your car.

Kind regards
Paul Russell

[mike020150]

Paul is absolutely right about the importance of deciding first whether the battery is failing or there's a fault with the car's charging system. One thing I would add to Paul's diagnostic suggestions is the possibility of a faulty BMS module. These days, a low charging voltage may not be exclusively an alternator's fault. Mike.

[BookerME]

Paul/Mike, thanks very much for the comments.
I’m so slow at times, it wouldn’t have occurred to me that the ‘positive’ lead would have stayed live if I’d connected a 2nd battery, so I think on balance I won’t go down that route.

After leaving it parked all day without the charger on, I took various voltage readings and they are not looking so great, though they did improve slightly after a run – without a red battery light on, which although not conclusive is at least a step in the right direction.

One way or another, it’s probably time to push the boat out anyway and get a new battery if this one is over 7.5 years old - and get some professional diagnostics run at the same time.

Thanks again for the tips and info.
Mac.

[JimMann]

For future reference regarding the current variations on battery speak:

AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat, typically used on a modern car, especially those with Stop / Start technology

VRLA= Valve Regulated Lead Acid, also known as a Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) and these valves 'typically' control the release of gases during charging

MF = Maintenance Free, no requirement to top it up with water

Please also note that some battery conditioner devices, not standard battery chargers, do have a 'memory retention' setting, where you can use that to retain all of the cars memorised settings whilst the battery is disconnected - The Ring Automotive type that I use has that functionality.

Jim

[andypryce]

Forgive my ignorance, what is the BMS module? And why does a new battery need programming? It all sounds very much like it is designed to make us shell out more cash. Is battery replacement no longer a simple swap over in newer Jaguars?

[BookerME]

Andy, I had to look up what 'BMS' was too.
Battery Maintenance System. It's a bit of 'smart' technology that oversees the battery.

Clever stuff really and one of those things that's great until it goes wrong or needs attention. But, hey-ho, that's modern cars for you.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_m ... 0system%20(BMS,controlling%20its%20environment%2C%20authenticating%20it

[Marineng]

Hi everyone - please also see the Jagaur hadbook at https://www.ownerinfo.jaguar.com/docume ... c/G1779247

Kind regards
Paul

[andypryce]

Amazing. At least on the XK8 I only need the radio code and resetting the windows, let's hope the XF keeps going.....