Rebuilding front suspension on a 3.8 S type

[richardhinds]

I’ve dismantled my front suspension to investigate very stiff steering.
I decided to have the various components grit blasted, and then electro painted.
As the fully assembled sub frame is very heavy ( and I’m very old!) I’m hoping to re-fit the “bare” sub frame, and then attach the various suspension pieces.
Before I go too far down that road, is it feasible to do this? I have the front reasonably high off the ground, and was able to drop the complete subframe relatively easily initially.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Doherto]

Richard, from my renovation project work last year i cannot see how it would be possible to rebuild the suspension with the subframe in place. I have not tried it and it may be possible but surley it is much easier to work on the subframe when it is out from under the car and in the free space in the garage, especially the springs. Then it is just the management of, multiple jacks in my case, to lift the complete subframe into place. As you know there are only 8 bolts to allign and having done the hard work of fitting the subframe out in relative space and comfort, the job is complete. Extra hands and jacks i believe is the answer.

[richardhinds]

Hi Doherto,

Thanks for replying. My main problem at the moment is that after having all the suspension components grit blasted and electro painted, I then hurt my back lifting the subframe out of the car! I now trying to avoid any heavy lifting.
When I originally dropped the complete subframe, I used my son’s hydraulic motor bike “lifter” to lower the complete unit. At that stage the complete unit was just too heavy for my son and I to lift, but I could roll it over, and after removing the springs, strip the unit down.
I guess I’ll just have to potter about gently until my back recovers.
There are plenty of minor pieces that would benefit from a bit of fettling and painting.

[340jag]

I use a Trolly jack , 2 can lift it on , roll it under then jack up , angle frame back , slide front mounting points in , then jack up to slide the 2 bolts in !

[Martec]

Hi I also suffer from a back with 'wear and tear'! I recently had to remove the engine and box to replace the clutch release bearing.

I used two large trolley jack, with the rear axle on the ground and the jacks under the front jacking points I lifted the front to 40" of the ground to pull the engine on its trolley out, but at a much lower height I removed the subframe still on its wheels, it just rolled out and then back in. No lifting needed.

The two large trolley jack are the best thing I've bought for a while, not counting the electric wire hoist.

Best of luck
Brian

[richardhinds]

My suspension rebuild is coming along gently. Some time has lapsed, as I've had many components grit blasted and electro-coated.I'm just doing the final checking, but I have a concern over the lower wishbone "axle".
I've replaced the bushes, but if I tighten the castellated nuts up sufficiently to reveal the split pin holes, the suspension is too tight to move easily ( the springs have not yet been replaced). Is this normal?

I've tightened the nuts up really hard, and then backed them off a tad, just to make sure the new bushes are fully home, but it seems the rubber in the new bushes is now binding on the outer faces of the lower wishbones.
Please will someone with experience give me some guidance.

Thanks in advance, Richard

[340jag]

2 points , 1st point I fitted new rubber bushes , and before the car got out the garage there was splits in the rubber , just sitting there , about 10 years after fitting them , I replaced them with poly bushes .
2nd point , you don't do the nuts up tight until the car is sitting on the ground , in case you did not know !
I guess for the very reason your talking about , the bushes must be pinched , so if you did the nuts up with car off the ground , once lowered they would be twisted .
I must add I left the nuts undone , and most rubbers had cracks in them !