Reverse Sensors

[jeff1954]

The replacement new sensor fitted at the weekend. All sensors ticking when in reverse and all working well when backing out of the garage this morning. However when I selected reverse this evening I got the dreaded continuous note even though there was nothing behind.

So with the car back in the garage I selected reverse and lo and behold they worked fine again.
I plugged in the isoft scanner and there were no DTC's/ faults logged up, Very strange.

Jeff

[jeff1954]

New sensor purchased from Jaguar, and getting a reading of circuit failure. so I swapped the sensors about and still got circuit failure with the other sensor which I know is good. On closer inspection of the connector plug one of the pin sockets looks a bit iffy so I have ordered a replacement plug off ebay.
To be continued.

Jeff

[jeff1954]

I wired the replacement plug in today, all sensors ticking and still getting the continuous bleep. I've plugged in the icarsoft scanner and it's telling me that there are no faults with the system. I don't know where to go from here.

Jeff

[J44EAG]

This is not dis-similar to the fault which occurs on my X350 from time to time. Hotter weather seems to have a marked effect on improved reliability. Yet to get the back bumper off and have another plug exercising session.

I recall on my old S-type that although the boot was water free, when I opened the module case, one or two points on the pc board were covered in bright turquoise copper verdigris. I carefully cleaned that off and got a few more weeks semi-reliable operation before I replaced the module with a second hand unit. Plenty on ebay, at Eurojag or from Auto Reserve with short warranty.

A few words of caution. Always replace the module with the exact part number you have removed. If it says something like 2W93-F ?????-AB, then it is that one you need. Replacing with one that for instance finishes -AA, will not work.

The iCarsoft has the facility to get right into the sensor system. In my experience it has always been quite good at finding which sensor is duff. I wonder if a battery hard dump might now be beneficial. I noted long ago that a system that had accumulated multiple fault codes over a period, seemed to get totally blocked up with electronic junk and wouldn`t clear until a hard dump had "steam cleaned" the modules of a pile of fault history. Might be worth a try?

Mike

[jeff1954]

Hi Mike Sorry for the late reply. I have done the hard dump procedure, but I'm wondering if I should try touching the Pos/Neg leads together after removing them from the battery. We have spoken about this procedure before on these pages.

Jeff

[J44EAG]

Without doubt, these parking sensors are the most infuriating part of Jaguar ownership. There is only one thing worse. My parents internet connection reliability!

The problems with the sensors often defies belief. Short of dropping all units out of the bumpers for serious cleaning, cable checking and opening up the module for evaluation, I don`t know quite where else to go with these issues.

Can anyone else here shed some light and further advice on this matter?

Mike

[jeff1954]

Touch the battery leads Mike, what do you think?

Jeff

[J44EAG]

Touching the leads together is quite popular. Whilst it goes against the grain in general electrical terms, people have done this with no ill effects, Jeff. Not done it myself but I don`t think it can do any harm.

Mike

[jeff1954]

Sorry once again Mike for the late reply. I think I will give it a try, maybe after a couple of tins confidence booster

Jeff

[JimboV8]

When you touch those leads together you are forcibly discharging the capacitors within the car's various modules. Far better to disconnect the negative lead and go have a coffee, by the time you get back the same result will be achieved.

Jim.

[jeff1954]

Back to the problem. I think it might be a problem with the module itself, it looks clean inside and there is no sign of dampness. As I have said in the previous post's all the sensors are ticking away merrily. A new unit from the main dealer is £160 00 and a second hand one from Eurojag is about £35 00 with a three month's warranty. What to do?

Jeff

[J44EAG]

Do one final check on the module PCB using a magnifying glass and bright light to check for dry solder joints or other defects. If still not playing, the get a secondhand unit of EXACTLY the same part number from Eurojag. If it works you will be well happy at solving the issue at a good price. Certainly much cheaper than a new unit, especially if the problem still then exists.

Your frustrations are well understood. It gets behond a joke on occasions.

Mike

[jeff1954]

OK Mike I will take a look. Pardon my ignorance but what does a dry solder joint look like, also I have read on another forum that there is a multi pin connector behind the N/S rear wheel arch liner which might need cleaning up. This is the first time I have heard about this connector how about you.

Jeff

[J44EAG]

A bright, shiney solder joint is OK. A dry joint will be a dull grey colour with possibly a crystalic look. You need to also look closely for component part legs which poke through the PCB but look as if the solder is not bonded to them. Carefully heat with a soldering iron and flow a bit more solder onto the joint having scraped the leg with a Stanley blade to clear any dirt deposits.

I`m not personally aware of that plug. Anyone else seen it?

Mike

Mike

[jeff1954]

Well I removed the Rear near side wheel arch liner only to find that there wasn't a connector there. What I did find was a tiny bit of surface rust in a couple of places, so I did the Genolite/Waxoil procedure whilst the cover was off and the same on the Off side. So in one way the miss information did me a favour. So now I have no alternative but to try the module, if that doesn't solve the problem suicide might be the only answer

Jeff