Does your dash clock work?

[Decopab]

One of my favourite games when at auctions and shows us playing spot the mk2/etype with a working dash clock!
Just a quick straw poll.. how many of you actually have working clocks, and those who do, what's the secret?! Does anyone know of a firm offering quartz movement upgrades or is there a simpler fix?

[piman]

Hello Decopab,

There was an article in the club magazine but many years ago of someone who was doing a refurbish service installing a different movement that worked.
Someone with a better memory than I may remember who it was and if the service is still available?

Alec

[Decopab]

Hi Alec, that does sound interesting. I'd be keen to find out more if anyone's got further information?
It's obviously not a major issue, just one of those niggling little things that bugs me when I take the car out for a spin! Phil

[PPV]

Hi, my clock works every so often after I reset it it but then stops if left for a while. I have taken it to bits and cleaned it but they are notoriously difficult to keep going. There is someone who 'modernises' them and there has been an article in recent times in the magazine about transistorising the unit I think but at the moment I have left mine as is.
Regards,

[gungehead]

Hi PPV,
This company will fix your clock if it is not working. They also sell a DIY kit.
http://www.clocks4classics.com/
I have no personal experience of the kit and I have no link with the company but I intend to purchase the diy kit shortly.

Dave

[Decopab]

Thanks for the link Dave, that's just what I was after. I'll definitely be ordering one! Cheers, Phil

[richardhinds]

I used this company. Www.jdo1.com. I sent my clock off to them, and they offer a number of solutions. I went for the quartz upgrade, and I'm very happy with the result-the time keeping is very accurate. I have no connection with the company, other than as a satisfied customer.

[Ronniebiggs]

All,

I'm currently going down the 'clocks for classics' route, fitting the kit myself. It's not a quick process and requires a steady hand and good eyesight - or, in my case, watchmakers' loupes which clip on to spectacles to give magnification.

The problem(s) with the pin clock are well documented; I resurrected mine for about 2 years, but it stopped again. The pin erodes due to arcing at the contact and once it's gone you're b*gg*r*d. If you catch it in time it's possible to reduce arcing by fitting a flywheel diode (see https://omegaforums.net/threads/bringin ... ife.29521/) but the fundamental problem remains.

Quartz replacements are undoubtedly the most accurate and long term solution, but there's little to compare with a proper 'clockwork' tick!

Once my clock's complete I'll post some updates on how I got on.

Cheers

Jay

[Ronniebiggs]

All,

I've now (finally) upgraded my pin clock with the upgrade from clocks for classics.

All the modifications were well described on their website, including both pdf documents and videos, and are within the capabilities of the dextrous, but remember that clocks are fragile and there are a lot of parts easily damaged! I shan't describe the work here as you can (and should) look them up first yourselves.

The modification centres on an optically controlled circuit which 'reads' a sticker affixed to the balance wheel. The pin, and its associated contacts (including starting), are now redundant. This makes it a good fix if your clock is so worn the pin has failed entirely - and it is now self-starting.

I had some issues setting it up as my power supply was inadequately regulated. However Mark Willows was more than helpful, giving advice and sending out a replacement circuit board. Excellent service.

The clock is now being bench tested prior to refitting. As it's been apart it needs regulating, which as we all know is d*mn near impossible in situ, so I'm getting it as accurate as possible before taking all the skin off my forearms putting it back.

Note to all though - as the clock is still regulated by a balance wheel and spring its accuracy will NOT be in the quartz league. It does, however, still tick! Fits in with my principles of as much originality as I can achieve.

In summation, I can thoroughly recommend Clocks for Classics - and I stress I have no connection with the company other than as a customer.

Jay

[Keith340]

I purchased the quartz’s movement and fitted It to the original clock, it ran fast and gained time, on closer inspection I found that the balance spring had corroded and required replacement. I suppose after fifty years, it was expecting rather a lot.

I found a very small quartz alarm clock on eBay for £1.99 which fitted easily behind the rev counter dial, operated by a 1.5v battery, the clock has kept perfect time for the last 8 months, you need to look very closely at the clock, to know it’s not the original clock.

It dose need some fetting to make it fit and look right, but it’s worth ago.

Keith. 67 - 340

[Doherto]

Ronniebiggs, and others please. I read this thread with interest as i have a Clocks4Classics kit which i intend to fit this weekend. However i am drawn to your comment about regulating the clock and the associated problem of not having the supply voltage regulated properly. Looking on my wiring diagram, 1968 Mk2 240, the clock is simply fed directly from the battery and not supplied via the voltage regulator for the supply to the dash instruments. Can you please clatify what issues you had with your supply voltage before i stumble into the same problem. It is / was my intention to connect the clock in the same way but avoiding the battery cut off now fitted but I would like to understand if you believe i would need to regulate the clock supply seperatly and if so to what voltage.

[Ronniebiggs]

Doherto,

I was referring to bench power supplies. Some bench PSUs are simply rectified, so the 'DC' output is very noisy (100Hz hum). When setting up on the bench you need a regulated PSU; the simplest way to achieve this is to use a 12v battery (from a motorcycle will do, it doesn't need much power). I bought a 'proper', regulated PSU when setting up mine.

In the car the DC is smooth as it's fed from the battery. Voltage isn't critical - it runs absolutely fine in my Mk2.

Patience is the key when working on the clock!

Let us know how you get on.

Jay

[Doherto]

Jay, thank you for your prompt reply which is fully understood. I have my clock on the bench so hopefully will be able to report back soon as i have a motorbike 12volt battery available.

[Doherto]

Sorry, no feedback yet. I tried to buy clock oil and isprophal alcahol locally without success. Have had to order it on ebay, thank god for ebay, £2.50 each delivered free, proberbly cheaper that the diesel to go and buy it, if i could. Will have to dely the upgrade till next week

[Doherto]

Hi all, better late than never. I ordered both Clock Oil and Isopropanol Alcohol from two diffeternt suppliers on E bay on Friday the 16th. The Oil arrived the next day but the Alcohol only arrived ten days later, yesterday. I have had the opportunity to do the upgrade my clock this evening and can report that success thankfully. In truth, following the two You-tube videos made the process very easy, if a little fiddly, and you need good light to do it in. The only area that gave me a problem was removing the four tiny tiny screws which secure the clock face to the mechanism as I didn't have a screwdriver small enough.(They are very very small) That solved the upgrade was fairly easy but one observation I made which should be noted if you are going to do this modification was that, when cutting out the paper sticker which is affixed to the balance wheel, it is best to cut it smaller than the actual diameter of the balance wheel as, if it extends over the side, even by a fraction, it impedes the movement by catching on the armature. In conclusion, if you are in any way practical, this modification is an easy solution to having a classic with a non functioning clock.