Sill repair panels.

[J44EAG]

Another new item on ebay.

This link is for inner sill repair panels.

Around £200 for two panels plus postage.

Only one set still available with just two other sets previously sold. Could this be a limited production run by a small business?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-S-Type ... 1e95cd2fd5

I wonder if there are other repair panels now available on the market. I must see what is listed in the new S-type Barretts catalogue.

I also wonder if there will be much call for such panels. With parts as shown here for £200 plus high fitting costs plus VAT, would there be many owners wishing to spend several hundred pounds repairing a rotten car which is probably worth the same value as the repair panels alone.....? Regrettably a vehicle in a bad state is more likely to exit this world as a scrapper.

Mike

[Martec]

Hi,Mike,

Old saloon Jaguars seem to go through long periods of 'Banger status', hence have no value and not worth the repair cost to most, series 2 XJ6's come to mind.

From my excursions into an 'S' type sill with an angle grinder it is a very complex structure, as is the floor due to multiple panels being used.

I recently photographed (60 pictures) a stripped corroding shell (left out in an orchard) and was surpised how little structural corrosion there was.

As I wish to keep this car for some time I have waxed the box sections as much as possible, but keep finding more that I have missed. Most old cars are scrapped because of the expense and time in repairing a rusted out shell, where as the S type is more likely to be scrapped due to the expense of finding electrical problems, gearbox and engine problems and suspension wishbone replacements.

Brian

[J44EAG]

I had a glance at the new Barrett catalogue and sorry to say that "weld in" panels such as the sills are not covered.

Main Dealer only then really by the look of it.

Does anyone have access to a Jaguar list for parts such as these? It would be good for us to have that information easily to hand.

Mike

[robv12]

Here's the very car to try them out one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311226652425? ... 1555.l2649

just failed today on rotten sills at the rear end both sides, other wise drives and looks really well

[J44EAG]

Best of luck with the sale, Rob.

I see the seller has another 4 sets now available. Hopefully this will be an on going situation.

Mike

[jonjeffryes]

I plan to fit a set of these in the first qtr. next year Mike. They look to be good quality and hopefully promise to be a good fit.

I have rust in the front end of the n/s sill....not massive but there none the less. I could have it patched but the replacement panels look to be a more permanent solution.

[Montana5]

Same ad and seller as I posted in thread below here... http://www.jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... 9&start=30
It is indeed a small business, the seller started making Sills for the X Type and was asked if he could make them for S Types, he visited a scrapyard with an S Type, climbed on top of several cars with tape measure and Camera, then built them, gets great reviews from those who have bought and fitted.

Doug.

[J44EAG]

A useful bit of background info, Doug.

The fellow deserves to do well for his ingenuity and investment.

Mike

[Montana5]

Had another reccomendation for these e-bay Sills, from Kevin who attended both STR Anniversary Events, copied from The Modern Jaguar X/S/XK/XJ (98-08) Facebook page...

Kevin Smith-Thanks Douglas Hunter for the thumbs up on this seller. Well engineered and fits perfectly, my mechanic was very impressed with the quality
Any one anticipating replacing or repairing sills on their S or X Type I'd highly recommend
Thank you

Doug.

[nrandlexj40]

I know this thread is quite old - but does anyone have a link to a current supplier of replacement sills for the S-Type

Usual issue of rusted sills under plastic covers....

Thanks in advance

[Banker56]

Neil
I have the same problem, rusty sills on an otherwise lovely S Type 3.0 V6. I found one sill set through Jaguar but at a cost of £650! I am currently exploring other ways to have the sills repaired, which may involve some welding. The cost will doubtless be almost as much as the value of the car but as I have already spent a lot on maintenance and improvement, I will probably have them done.
John

[brent]

Did you find anyone to do this work? I'm now facing the same issue

[3.8etypephil]

Did you find anyone to do this work? I'm now facing the same issue

The most cost effective way is to buy a cheap MIG welder (not one of the "no gas" variety), and spend some time learning to weld. It took me just half an hour to teach my then 17 year old son to weld to a perfectly satisfactory standard. I must confess to not enjoying welding other people's rusty old cars for the annual MOT before I retired, but on a personal project when one is seeking longevity it is very satisfying, especially as one then knows exactly what is behind the shiny fresh paint.

[brent]

I've considered doing that with my 1966 3.8S, but I haven't welded anything since about 1987 and I was rubbish at it then as well.

I'm not sure how I'd get the car off the ground to get at the sills either.

[3.8etypephil]

I've considered doing that with my 1966 3.8S, but I haven't welded anything since about 1987 and I was rubbish at it then as well.

I'm not sure how I'd get the car off the ground to get at the sills either.

The "secret" to good MIG welding is to cut out every bit of corrosion back to good full thickness steel, clean off rust, paint and underseal etc back to shiny metal, use a dipping anti-spatter compound on the torch, keep the tip and shroud clean, replacing them when they are worn or damaged, use the appropriate current and wire speed for the thickness of the work, and if the pieces are of differing thickness, aim the heat towards the thicker to avoid blowing away the edge of the thinner. And a good clean earth. Practice your technique on the bench before attempting to weld while laying on your back under the car.
As I am retired and no longer have a lift, I jack up one end of the subject as high as possible, lower substantial parts (subframe, suspension mount etc) onto axle stands, then carefully raise the other end ensuring that the jack rolls freely and doesn't try to move the car as it rises, supporting as previously.