I think I`m in the market for a new near side front bearing. Mechanical noise began a few weeks ago after 87k miles covered. Usual life on these bearings is around 90k.
One again an internet ebay trawl done and Premier Parts seem to be the cheapest by far. £73.99 including post. Usual price for years appeared to generally be around £128 so the Premier price is very good.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-Jaguar-S- ... 2ecdd8ea28
I`ve used this supplier quite regularly and recently again bought from them. Around £34 for a full two axle OE Mintex brake pad set.
Front wheel bearing changes on an S-type/XF or X350 can be somewhat difficult due to inter-facial corrosion between the aluminium vertical leg and the steel bearing cartridge unit. Sometimes a good clout with a lump hammer after removing the fixing bolts is all that is required for the cartridge to just drop out. On other occasions vertical leg removal complete with cartridge has to occur. The leg and cartridge then being transferred to a bench press to facilitate removal.
I covered that matter in the magazine some years back but will post on this BB again with pictures once I get around to this job.
Lower ball joints on the early cars also suffer advanced wear at around 90k miles. My plan is to fit a reconditioned vertical leg which I have in stock together with a new bearing at the same time. In addition the MOT man showed me a softened front lower wishbone bush on the car. This needs attention before the next MOT. I also have a good second hand wishbone in stock so I might as well do the overhaul all as one job. I`ll do the brake pads at the same time as the whole lot will have to be stripped out to do the bearing.
Mike
Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing.
Moderators:GJS-typeR, Montana5
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
Hi Mike,
Are you going to replace the hub unit/cassette or strip the hub and fit a new bearing?
Brian
Are you going to replace the hub unit/cassette or strip the hub and fit a new bearing?
Brian
MY2000 3ltr S type manual standard car with leather seats, cruise control and mistral blue metallic paint.
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
I shall replace the complete hub cassette unit, Brian.
As I understand it replacement of the bearing is not possible. The ABS gubbins are all part of the unit and well sealed.
Out with the Portsmouth lads today for skittles and a meal. Noticed on the M27 that the bearing noise is now quite noticeable and it spoils the drive. A distinct "wow-wow-wow" proportional to increased road speed. It can only get worse. Will check prior to ordering and fitting new.
More dirty hand sessions coming up this week.
Mike
As I understand it replacement of the bearing is not possible. The ABS gubbins are all part of the unit and well sealed.
Out with the Portsmouth lads today for skittles and a meal. Noticed on the M27 that the bearing noise is now quite noticeable and it spoils the drive. A distinct "wow-wow-wow" proportional to increased road speed. It can only get worse. Will check prior to ordering and fitting new.
More dirty hand sessions coming up this week.
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
I've read reports before of alloy parts sticking, my old science teacher (a few years ago!) used to use fairy liquid to separate alloy parts corroded together!! never used it myself, but at least they would be clean when they separate.
best wishes
Brian
best wishes
Brian
MY2000 3ltr S type manual standard car with leather seats, cruise control and mistral blue metallic paint.
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
Hi Mike,
Is all this work confined to one side?
Is it worth doing both sides on a preventative maintenance basis?
Removing that lower wishbone is going to need the Camber to be reset. Do you have access to a Dunlop caster gauge and a couple of slider plates? I've done this on old Jaguars but not on the S type. As I understand it, the pivot point of the inboard lower wishbone differs between early and later models. Martec is the man to talk to, he tells us he has done a considerable amount of work in this area.
In view of the cost of tyres I think I would be looking for a tyre house with 4 point laser tracking and caster and camber to set things correctly- what do you say
Take this job gently, don't want any other set backs
Oldtimer
Is all this work confined to one side?
Is it worth doing both sides on a preventative maintenance basis?
Removing that lower wishbone is going to need the Camber to be reset. Do you have access to a Dunlop caster gauge and a couple of slider plates? I've done this on old Jaguars but not on the S type. As I understand it, the pivot point of the inboard lower wishbone differs between early and later models. Martec is the man to talk to, he tells us he has done a considerable amount of work in this area.
In view of the cost of tyres I think I would be looking for a tyre house with 4 point laser tracking and caster and camber to set things correctly- what do you say
Take this job gently, don't want any other set backs
Oldtimer
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
Effectively yes, Phil.
Brakes to be done all round.
The wishbone is NSF lower. Bolts on inner bushes to be carefully index marked with Tipex and unsprung lower ball joint knuckle at lowest point on the ground to be height blocked for reference before either of the inner bush bolts removed. If the bolts are ordinary plane items then indexing will become irrelevant. If they are cam bolts then precise indexing will be required. Obviously nuts to be torqued with the weight of the car on the overhauled corner being taken by a trolley jack before final bolt torque is applied.
The replacement wishbone is identical to the item currently on the car. One out, one in. If it does not exhibit wear, then I may attempt to remove the old bearing cartridge and just replace with a new unit leaving the current vertical leg and joint in place. If the cartridge proves difficult to remove, then I`ll change out the vertical leg complete with the old bearing cartridge unit which just means removing top and bottom ball joint nuts. The ball joint plain portion pins are parallel and I`ve had no trouble getting those apart in the past.
Brake dust shields fitted to the vertical legs have 6mm pop rivets fixings and need a decent rivet puller to form the rivet and break off the central steel pull mandrel. 6mm rivets are quite a size to use. I have a large bolt cropper type rivet gun for this job. Smaller hand squeeze plier type tools are not powerful enough for this work. Big tools for big jobs!
My hope is that given initial accurate assessment and indexing and given that I come across just plane non cam bolts, there would be little need for any camber or castor correction or checking.
I tend to maintain some components on hard time, others upon condition and or performance. I see little point in replacing both wheel bearings when one is currently in good serviceable condition. As regards lower ball joint condition currently, there was no evidence to suggest either required replacement at the last MOT in the middle of December 2013. If I replace the NS leg and ball joint, it will be solely because the bearing cartridge in the leg proves difficult to remove due to intefacial corrosion. The removed of the leg in such a scenario could then be reworked at a later date and by fitting a new vertical leg and bearing, get the car back on the road in quick time.
Provided I enter work done on the car history file this will record what has and has not been done. Whilst I would love to be able to change components identically either side of the car, in this instance I shall confine the work to just what is needed to keep the car in good usable condition. If similar parts then subsequently fail on the other side of the car, then I can replace those also when they start falling apart.
Typically many cars suffer the worst wear on NSF suspension components when driven on the left hand side of the road as we do in the UK Roundabouts (clockwise rotation) cause
most weight to be transferred to the NSF suspension units and accelerated wear occurs. The converse situation would apply on cars driven on the right. I would certainly expect lower ball joints to wear out quicker on the NS than on the OS. In this situation I would personally apply "on condition" maintenance.
If it ain`t bust, leave it alone if at all possible! One final piece of good advice. Has anyone worked out which end of a spanner to use? Correct me if I am wrong. I believe you use the ring end in the workshop but the open end when on your hands and knees in the car park.....
Mike
Brakes to be done all round.
The wishbone is NSF lower. Bolts on inner bushes to be carefully index marked with Tipex and unsprung lower ball joint knuckle at lowest point on the ground to be height blocked for reference before either of the inner bush bolts removed. If the bolts are ordinary plane items then indexing will become irrelevant. If they are cam bolts then precise indexing will be required. Obviously nuts to be torqued with the weight of the car on the overhauled corner being taken by a trolley jack before final bolt torque is applied.
The replacement wishbone is identical to the item currently on the car. One out, one in. If it does not exhibit wear, then I may attempt to remove the old bearing cartridge and just replace with a new unit leaving the current vertical leg and joint in place. If the cartridge proves difficult to remove, then I`ll change out the vertical leg complete with the old bearing cartridge unit which just means removing top and bottom ball joint nuts. The ball joint plain portion pins are parallel and I`ve had no trouble getting those apart in the past.
Brake dust shields fitted to the vertical legs have 6mm pop rivets fixings and need a decent rivet puller to form the rivet and break off the central steel pull mandrel. 6mm rivets are quite a size to use. I have a large bolt cropper type rivet gun for this job. Smaller hand squeeze plier type tools are not powerful enough for this work. Big tools for big jobs!
My hope is that given initial accurate assessment and indexing and given that I come across just plane non cam bolts, there would be little need for any camber or castor correction or checking.
I tend to maintain some components on hard time, others upon condition and or performance. I see little point in replacing both wheel bearings when one is currently in good serviceable condition. As regards lower ball joint condition currently, there was no evidence to suggest either required replacement at the last MOT in the middle of December 2013. If I replace the NS leg and ball joint, it will be solely because the bearing cartridge in the leg proves difficult to remove due to intefacial corrosion. The removed of the leg in such a scenario could then be reworked at a later date and by fitting a new vertical leg and bearing, get the car back on the road in quick time.
Provided I enter work done on the car history file this will record what has and has not been done. Whilst I would love to be able to change components identically either side of the car, in this instance I shall confine the work to just what is needed to keep the car in good usable condition. If similar parts then subsequently fail on the other side of the car, then I can replace those also when they start falling apart.
Typically many cars suffer the worst wear on NSF suspension components when driven on the left hand side of the road as we do in the UK Roundabouts (clockwise rotation) cause
most weight to be transferred to the NSF suspension units and accelerated wear occurs. The converse situation would apply on cars driven on the right. I would certainly expect lower ball joints to wear out quicker on the NS than on the OS. In this situation I would personally apply "on condition" maintenance.
If it ain`t bust, leave it alone if at all possible! One final piece of good advice. Has anyone worked out which end of a spanner to use? Correct me if I am wrong. I believe you use the ring end in the workshop but the open end when on your hands and knees in the car park.....
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
Mike
My XK8 has just developed the noise you describe at a speed of around 50mph - any ideas how I narrow down which side it is coming from - is it just a case of looking for play in the bearing by rocking the wheek top and bottom or is there another way,
Thanks
Ian
My XK8 has just developed the noise you describe at a speed of around 50mph - any ideas how I narrow down which side it is coming from - is it just a case of looking for play in the bearing by rocking the wheek top and bottom or is there another way,
Thanks
Ian
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
Hello Ian,
XK8 does indeed have a similar cartridge type bearing arrangement. I`ve seen one on the bench and I recall the bearing being held into the cartridge by a circlip arrangement. I seem to remember that there are posts on wheel bearing issues for this model on the XK8 BB. Forum Co-ordinator Mike Horlor is well up on such matters and he and others will be able to advise the precise technicals for diagnosis and repair.
Wear at an advanced stage in the bearings can usually be felt rocking the road wheel from top to bottom with the wheel jacked off the ground. Spinning the wheel may also produce noise although it may be difficult to rotate the wheel fast enough to produce noise. It may be possible to detect a gravely feel when the wheel is rotated which my help with fault diagnosis.
As far as initially detecting which bearing may be worn, listening intently whilst driving might identify which bearing is at fault. You might also try listening again when traveling as a passenger. The rapidly increasing wear on my own S-type clearly emanates from the near side front wheel.
As I say, have a look on the XK8 BB for further advice on the matter.
Mike
XK8 does indeed have a similar cartridge type bearing arrangement. I`ve seen one on the bench and I recall the bearing being held into the cartridge by a circlip arrangement. I seem to remember that there are posts on wheel bearing issues for this model on the XK8 BB. Forum Co-ordinator Mike Horlor is well up on such matters and he and others will be able to advise the precise technicals for diagnosis and repair.
Wear at an advanced stage in the bearings can usually be felt rocking the road wheel from top to bottom with the wheel jacked off the ground. Spinning the wheel may also produce noise although it may be difficult to rotate the wheel fast enough to produce noise. It may be possible to detect a gravely feel when the wheel is rotated which my help with fault diagnosis.
As far as initially detecting which bearing may be worn, listening intently whilst driving might identify which bearing is at fault. You might also try listening again when traveling as a passenger. The rapidly increasing wear on my own S-type clearly emanates from the near side front wheel.
As I say, have a look on the XK8 BB for further advice on the matter.
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
The full job as per a TSB is in this link.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/TSB ... Joints.pdf
OK. I concede. I`ll have to get the car given a full tracking check at the end of the job.
Mike
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/TSB ... Joints.pdf
OK. I concede. I`ll have to get the car given a full tracking check at the end of the job.
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
Mike,
You were talking about re-riveting the dust shields in place. you are right a pretty heavy duty riveting gun is needed. Need a pair of lazy tongs- haven't seen them for donkey years.
I drilled the rivets and took the shields out only for cleaning and painting. I used stainless steel nuts and bolts to secure them in place. I chose to pass the bolt from the inside with the self locking nut on the outside so that in the unlikely event of the parts separating the nut would fall away without harm.
This was carried out on all four wheels about 4/5 years ago
Oldtimer
You were talking about re-riveting the dust shields in place. you are right a pretty heavy duty riveting gun is needed. Need a pair of lazy tongs- haven't seen them for donkey years.
I drilled the rivets and took the shields out only for cleaning and painting. I used stainless steel nuts and bolts to secure them in place. I chose to pass the bolt from the inside with the self locking nut on the outside so that in the unlikely event of the parts separating the nut would fall away without harm.
This was carried out on all four wheels about 4/5 years ago
Oldtimer
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
It just got better yet again!
Now on ebay for S-type, X350 and XF models, front wheel bearing units for under £67 each delivered. For years these units were around £130. We saw prices drop markedly this year and now they have gone down further!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-S-TYPE ... 27cb636722.
These units generally last around 90k miles before needing replacement. When they wear out they sound like a cement mixer eating a bucket of peanuts.
For fitment info see this post which also covers suspension rebuilding. A bench press is needed for this job without which removal of the old bearing from the vertical leg can prove difficult if not impossible due to interfacial corrosion.
http://www.jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=200&t=8040
Mike
Now on ebay for S-type, X350 and XF models, front wheel bearing units for under £67 each delivered. For years these units were around £130. We saw prices drop markedly this year and now they have gone down further!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-S-TYPE ... 27cb636722.
These units generally last around 90k miles before needing replacement. When they wear out they sound like a cement mixer eating a bucket of peanuts.
For fitment info see this post which also covers suspension rebuilding. A bench press is needed for this job without which removal of the old bearing from the vertical leg can prove difficult if not impossible due to interfacial corrosion.
http://www.jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=200&t=8040
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
In less than a month since I last posted on wheel bearing prices, an ebay supplier is now offering a new front wheel bearing cartridge c/w sensor lead for an incredible £60.50 including p&p. Talk about a volatile and highly competitive market place.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wheel-Bearing ... 339692b60a
As always one must satisfy oneself that the offered product has OE type quality. In this case the seller does not offer that assurance in his listing. In addition the sellers feed back score is low and I wonder if this is a new business and the seller is knocking gear out cheaply to build his feed back as rapidly as possible. Be that as it may, his offering is worth consideration. I would be asking the seller direct whether his product meets a good specification. You pay your money and make your choice.
Has anyone heard of the supplier/manufacturer, Bettaparts?
One might have to accept this part probably originates from China and its service life might be lower than a certified OE spec part. At least with OE parts one has some assurance that they are as good as original and that one can expect a similar service life. How I wish that with OE parts bought on the after market, that at least the part came with some sort of certificate of compliance.
Fairly recently we had a poster on the X-type BB saying that he had had his garage fit new wheel bearings to his car which had failed. Could it be perhaps that those new bearings were cheapies supplied without OE spec assurance?
Comments please guys.
Mike
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wheel-Bearing ... 339692b60a
As always one must satisfy oneself that the offered product has OE type quality. In this case the seller does not offer that assurance in his listing. In addition the sellers feed back score is low and I wonder if this is a new business and the seller is knocking gear out cheaply to build his feed back as rapidly as possible. Be that as it may, his offering is worth consideration. I would be asking the seller direct whether his product meets a good specification. You pay your money and make your choice.
Has anyone heard of the supplier/manufacturer, Bettaparts?
One might have to accept this part probably originates from China and its service life might be lower than a certified OE spec part. At least with OE parts one has some assurance that they are as good as original and that one can expect a similar service life. How I wish that with OE parts bought on the after market, that at least the part came with some sort of certificate of compliance.
Fairly recently we had a poster on the X-type BB saying that he had had his garage fit new wheel bearings to his car which had failed. Could it be perhaps that those new bearings were cheapies supplied without OE spec assurance?
Comments please guys.
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
Hi Mike, reading this just in case I need a front bearing in the future. Does my STR have the same unit as all S-Type models? The eBay link you posted says no but looking in the SNG Barratt catalogue they only list one part number...
Thanks in advance.
Cheers, Andrew
Thanks in advance.
Cheers, Andrew
AGS
2002 STR 4.2
2002 STR 4.2
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
I am 99% sure all are the same part number.
Plenty on ebay from £60 upwards. Where possible try to get one that is said to be OE quality.
These bearings are the devil to fit. The one I removed from an ali leg on Monday took 5 tons to break the steel/ali corrosion, See here for fitting details.http://www.jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=200&t=8040
Mike
Plenty on ebay from £60 upwards. Where possible try to get one that is said to be OE quality.
These bearings are the devil to fit. The one I removed from an ali leg on Monday took 5 tons to break the steel/ali corrosion, See here for fitting details.http://www.jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=200&t=8040
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: Probably the best price around for a front wheel bearing
Another new listing on ebay tonight 15/03/2015, a new wheel bearing kit all be it not listed as OE. This one is available with free p&p for £55.88. I would have no hesitation in buying one. If it lasts without problems for 70k miles then it would represent good value for money. In my experience even OE bearings are in any case usually worn out at 90k miles. I have a similar part fitted to my N/S front hub carrier last year so it is early miles to tell quite what the quality is. Certainly better than the old unit I ditched!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-S-Type ... 46358e0c4d
Mike
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-S-Type ... 46358e0c4d
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
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