Hi all
I am attempting to replace my rear springs, I got some uprated ones from sng Barrett along with new front pads and eye bolts
The offsideide went in with a bit of persuasion but the near side will not go in, when the spring is seated correctly in the middle bracket the eye bolt will not line up, it is almost like the spring is two long, I has tried jacking from the eye bolt and fitting the eye bolt first and jacking up the front carrier, if I do this middle pad sits too far forward, I have noticed in doing all this the off side torsion bush has been distortedthis may have been what allowed me to do the eyebolt up on this side
The torsion bars are of equal length and the spring mounting points all look original and true, could I just have chosen poor replacements ie are springs from this supplier NBG and don't fit (they seem to match but look pretty crudely made)or is there a trick eg should I slacken off the panhard rod an torsion bushes and keep the bolts loose of the offside spring mounts loose while fitting the near side
Any help gratefully received as always
Regards
Richard
Replacing rear springs
Moderators:Aceman, ecosselynx
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ecosselynx
- Posts:265
- Joined:Sun Sep 02, 2007 12:08 am
- Location:Magnou, France
Re: Replacing rear springs
Hi Richard
I think it best to get both springs off the car and check both are of similar length and height, you might also check them against your old springs although these are old and tired.
Assuming all is well. Your probably better to remove the panhard rod first then install the springs. First mounting the spring into the center mounting, followed by the front mounting, with both springs fitted to the car bring the axel to meet the springs and bolt-up, finally tighten up all the bolts/nuts.
Check that your torsion bar bushes are sitting square, you can then refit and adjust the panhard rod to true rear to the front. Once you have given the car a run and the springs settled you need to re-check the rear axel.
I think it best to get both springs off the car and check both are of similar length and height, you might also check them against your old springs although these are old and tired.
Assuming all is well. Your probably better to remove the panhard rod first then install the springs. First mounting the spring into the center mounting, followed by the front mounting, with both springs fitted to the car bring the axel to meet the springs and bolt-up, finally tighten up all the bolts/nuts.
Check that your torsion bar bushes are sitting square, you can then refit and adjust the panhard rod to true rear to the front. Once you have given the car a run and the springs settled you need to re-check the rear axel.
bye-o
John H.
John H.
Re: Replacing rear springs
Thanks for that John
I have checked the springs and think one is a dud it has a different curve and is a touch longer I will try as you suggest and unfix the panhard rod this should give a bit of wriggle room when fitting the eye lots up
Barretts are sending some more springs so are doing their best to help
Regards
Richard
I have checked the springs and think one is a dud it has a different curve and is a touch longer I will try as you suggest and unfix the panhard rod this should give a bit of wriggle room when fitting the eye lots up
Barretts are sending some more springs so are doing their best to help
Regards
Richard
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ecosselynx
- Posts:265
- Joined:Sun Sep 02, 2007 12:08 am
- Location:Magnou, France
Re: Replacing rear springs
Hi Richard
If don't measure the same, then send them back and ask that they ensure they send you a paired set. which is at the end of the day they are advertising!
If one is longer then your never going to get your car set-up properly
Just my take on it
If don't measure the same, then send them back and ask that they ensure they send you a paired set. which is at the end of the day they are advertising!
If one is longer then your never going to get your car set-up properly
Just my take on it
bye-o
John H.
John H.
Re: Replacing rear springs
John
It would seem fairly obvious but I think with these mail order firms they have
Pickers for the orders that are not clued up on what they ae sending the guy
Barratts said they will send another pair with any luck two of the four will match
Thanks for the input there will be more questions when I attempt to renew the front suspension
It would seem fairly obvious but I think with these mail order firms they have
Pickers for the orders that are not clued up on what they ae sending the guy
Barratts said they will send another pair with any luck two of the four will match
Thanks for the input there will be more questions when I attempt to renew the front suspension
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ecosselynx
- Posts:265
- Joined:Sun Sep 02, 2007 12:08 am
- Location:Magnou, France
Re: Replacing rear springs
Hi Richard
Good that they are sending you another pair. No worries on the questions, that's what the forum is for/about.
Good that they are sending you another pair. No worries on the questions, that's what the forum is for/about.
bye-o
John H.
John H.
Re: Replacing rear springs
Hi again
This is turning in to an epic waited at work for the springs to come after a couple of hours it dawned on me they were not coming. Called ups and was told box was being repacked so they would not come til tomorrow useless so I had to drive to the depot and get them great because the Landrover has a dodgy alternator only altenatve is the mg midget so havr to chance it i need the jag back on the road. anyway to cut a long story short on a perfect summers evening when I should be in a pub beer garden I fitted the replacements and they went in perfect
I found mounting the centre first as you said but then doing the eye bolt at the back up loose and then using a block of wood just behind the front pad on the spring to jack it up and replace the three bolts in the front plate I did also first slacken the panhard rod off as was suggested I think this def helps as it allows. The axle to twist a little which made fitting the eye bolts a synch. It also helps when the springs are the same.. to finish i tightened the mounting bolts up let the car off the jack and tighten The eyebolt bushes I will check panhard alignment tomorrow
Why can't parts people check what they are sending out and why do couriers destroy boxes there was a load of tent peggs in the box so some poor sod has not pegs for his gazebo at the weekend
The small block of wood for jacking the spring is available for hire the fee is restoring my sanity with a large drink
Hope to be at beaumanor show on Sunday in Leicestershire and to actually enjoy driving the cat again for 5 minutes before something else goes wrong
As always thanks for the invaluable tips they helped me hash together my own way
Regards
Richard
This is turning in to an epic waited at work for the springs to come after a couple of hours it dawned on me they were not coming. Called ups and was told box was being repacked so they would not come til tomorrow useless so I had to drive to the depot and get them great because the Landrover has a dodgy alternator only altenatve is the mg midget so havr to chance it i need the jag back on the road. anyway to cut a long story short on a perfect summers evening when I should be in a pub beer garden I fitted the replacements and they went in perfect
I found mounting the centre first as you said but then doing the eye bolt at the back up loose and then using a block of wood just behind the front pad on the spring to jack it up and replace the three bolts in the front plate I did also first slacken the panhard rod off as was suggested I think this def helps as it allows. The axle to twist a little which made fitting the eye bolts a synch. It also helps when the springs are the same.. to finish i tightened the mounting bolts up let the car off the jack and tighten The eyebolt bushes I will check panhard alignment tomorrow
Why can't parts people check what they are sending out and why do couriers destroy boxes there was a load of tent peggs in the box so some poor sod has not pegs for his gazebo at the weekend
The small block of wood for jacking the spring is available for hire the fee is restoring my sanity with a large drink
Hope to be at beaumanor show on Sunday in Leicestershire and to actually enjoy driving the cat again for 5 minutes before something else goes wrong
As always thanks for the invaluable tips they helped me hash together my own way
Regards
Richard
Re: Replacing rear springs
I spoke too soon, once aligned and driven springs slip forward on pads so off again, these have been sent back too
Received new set from David manners these are proper springs with proper forged pad holders and friction pads as opposed to none on other springs and guess what made in Sheffield by Owen springs who I did talk to directly hopefully these will fit and last better as they look exactly like the oe springs
Regards
Richard
Received new set from David manners these are proper springs with proper forged pad holders and friction pads as opposed to none on other springs and guess what made in Sheffield by Owen springs who I did talk to directly hopefully these will fit and last better as they look exactly like the oe springs
Regards
Richard
Re: Replacing rear springs
Suspension problems on here seem so common , id like to renew my rears [65 S type] i just dont want the Agro , with the amount of suppliers available u'd of thought someone would be on top of it ? . Russ
Re: Replacing rear springs
Hi Russ,
Am I missing something here, the Mk 2 has leaf springs and the S type has 4 coils
Am I missing something here, the Mk 2 has leaf springs and the S type has 4 coils
Re: Replacing rear springs
I also am missing something,
I still have the original rear springs fitted, I checked the height at the back and they were fine, so they have stayed on, even though there is the extra weight of an LPG tank in the boot.
From previous experience replacement rear springs raise the back end too high.
Brian
I still have the original rear springs fitted, I checked the height at the back and they were fine, so they have stayed on, even though there is the extra weight of an LPG tank in the boot.
From previous experience replacement rear springs raise the back end too high.
Brian
MY2000 3ltr S type manual standard car with leather seats, cruise control and mistral blue metallic paint.
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
Re: Replacing rear springs
just a general comment fella's , leaf's or coils , im surprised that there is no suspension specialist availiable . R
Re: Replacing rear springs
Hello Silverfox,
Harvey Bailey do a limited range of kits for the MK 2, no rear springs however, but do a rear anti roll bar.
Alec
Harvey Bailey do a limited range of kits for the MK 2, no rear springs however, but do a rear anti roll bar.
Alec
Mk 2 3.8 (long term restoration), MK1 Triumph 2.5 P.I. , 564 Hymer Motorhome
Re: Replacing rear springs
Can I suggest you're wary of a rear antiroll bar on the MkII shell.
As I rebuilt the rotten shell of our car I had a 4"x4" wooden beam under the rear of the car on an axle stand, on one occasion I sat on the end of this and realised it moved as did the back end of the car.
At the time (many years ago) Ken Jenkins was supplying me with panels and delivered them, I showed him the way the back end was moving and his comment was 'they all do that as the suspension is carried from below the rear seat and there is no strength in the back end so don't use a rear anti roll-bar'. I believe the banger racers used to smack MkII's in the back so it folded down and they were then out of the race.
As I said I have the original rear springs, but at the front have what we think are Harvey bailey front springs (0.635")( stiffer than standard(0.615") but less stiff than uprated (0.710") roughly) to balance the extra weight of the gas tank which upset standard springing.
To help the car around corners I was advised to use a stiffer front anti-rollbar and negative camber, and it has worked fine.
Best wishes
Brian
PS an old friend has also been having trouble with replacement springs on his MG, being bent sideways a little and not fitting, the supplier checked his stock and they were all the same!
As I rebuilt the rotten shell of our car I had a 4"x4" wooden beam under the rear of the car on an axle stand, on one occasion I sat on the end of this and realised it moved as did the back end of the car.
At the time (many years ago) Ken Jenkins was supplying me with panels and delivered them, I showed him the way the back end was moving and his comment was 'they all do that as the suspension is carried from below the rear seat and there is no strength in the back end so don't use a rear anti roll-bar'. I believe the banger racers used to smack MkII's in the back so it folded down and they were then out of the race.
As I said I have the original rear springs, but at the front have what we think are Harvey bailey front springs (0.635")( stiffer than standard(0.615") but less stiff than uprated (0.710") roughly) to balance the extra weight of the gas tank which upset standard springing.
To help the car around corners I was advised to use a stiffer front anti-rollbar and negative camber, and it has worked fine.
Best wishes
Brian
PS an old friend has also been having trouble with replacement springs on his MG, being bent sideways a little and not fitting, the supplier checked his stock and they were all the same!
MY2000 3ltr S type manual standard car with leather seats, cruise control and mistral blue metallic paint.
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
Re: Replacing rear springs
Hello Brian,
Harvey Bailey are an old established and respected suspension specialist so I would imagine that it would be a properly engineered job.
I have bought, but not yet fitted the uprated front springs from Derek Watson with Koni dampers. I'm a little unsure about the rear as stiffer front springs will increase the already quite strong understeer although some negative camber will offset that. I believe the competition cars have the steel work strengthened around the rear.
Coilover dampers could be one way to easily alter the rear spring rate but I haven't looked to see what that would entail?
Alec
Harvey Bailey are an old established and respected suspension specialist so I would imagine that it would be a properly engineered job.
I have bought, but not yet fitted the uprated front springs from Derek Watson with Koni dampers. I'm a little unsure about the rear as stiffer front springs will increase the already quite strong understeer although some negative camber will offset that. I believe the competition cars have the steel work strengthened around the rear.
Coilover dampers could be one way to easily alter the rear spring rate but I haven't looked to see what that would entail?
Alec
Mk 2 3.8 (long term restoration), MK1 Triumph 2.5 P.I. , 564 Hymer Motorhome
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