Driver's side window

[msdsx]

Have a problem with the driver's side window on my 2003 STR in that it won't go down. When pressing the button there is no sound or movement. However, when pressing the button to raise the window I can hear the motor and a clicking noise.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Many thanks!

[J44EAG]

I think possibly an issue with the switch pack on the drivers door card.

I`d remove the door card and buzz out the switch ie bridge out the switch with a short length of wire to achieve up or down movement by trialing the wire on appropriate connections.

If success is achieved then you may have a switch failure. If that is indeed the case then I would suggest a second hand switch pack from a breaker such as Eurojag. A few quid should only be required it the switch has given up.

Worth also just dismantling and cleaning multiplug contacts with switch cleaner and and small paint bush. Sometimes just pulling the connector apart and refitting does the trick.

Let us know how you get on.

Mike

[msdsx]

Many thanks Mike

[msdsx]

As an update I started to have a go with Mike's suggestion but I just don't know enough so it's off to the local specialist.

One thing I did discover (by accident) is that the window works when operated using the key fob to open all windows, i.e. holding down the open button. I guess that means it's the switch at fault.

[msdsx]

An update...

Finally got this repaired. There was a corroded wire in the drivers door with some others on the way. All repaired and working now.

[J44EAG]

Thanks for the update on that. Glad you got sorted.

I finally got around to repairing my drivers window today. Residual damage from having to bash a sledge hammer through the window earlier this year after the car locked itself and I had to get in fast as a failed water pump started to cause an overheat.....this sad and sorry saga documented in an article in our magazine in recent months.

Finally the window regulator mechanism disintegrated and I was left having to jam the door glass it in the closed position with three half clothes pegs and a comb. Left to its own devices, it would simply plummet into the depths of the door leaving a big empty and draughty hole!

Neville Anderson at North East Jag Spares to the rescue again with an Electric Life reproduction regulator mechanism at a very reasonable price. Delivered next day complete with a drive motor for less than half the price of a genuine Jaguar part. I`m not concerned the part is not genuine. Jaguar only buy them in anyway. To my eye the new part appeared to have been beefed up on the lift mechanism sliders which has always been a weakness on the mechanism. Keeping door glass channel rubbers lubricated does help prolong mechanism life. The lift wires are miniscule stranded stainless steel cable. Stainless is less than good under a tensile load and has a tendency to snap under light gunfire. Anything that can be done to off load those cables is desirable.

The old unit wreckage came out in several pieces and the new mechanism in one piece just bolted straight to the door shell. A tip here with fitting. Slacken the glass clamps fully to facilitate easy door glass installation. The glass can be removed upwards via the window channels for a clean up before refitting. So fit the new mechanism, power the window down so that the glass clamps can be easily worked on, then slip the glass at an angle down into the door and onto the mechanism lift clamps. Gently tighten the clamps and carefully raise and lower the glass to ensure full and free operation.

The Electric Life unit was fitted with a motor which had a different connector to that fitted to the car as original. I cut back the positive and negative cables leaving the plug as a part for my spares box. The new motor plug was then grafted to the car loom. It may not be original but I`m more concerned about functionality!

Not a difficult job in itself. The challenge was refitting the door card and the door pull lever through the trim escutcheon. Not part of the job I like at all.

Job done then and another four years to wait until this accursed unit gives up the ghost again! Perhaps though I`m being unfair. If I hadn`t had to hit it better with a sledge hammer it might have lasted longer...............

Mike

[oldtimer]

Hi Mike and Co,
This topic raises a number of questions for me, but firstly, pleased you have shut out that big draft and fixed the window.

I despair at hearing that the cause of the window malfunction was cable corrosion. Just what is going on? Have you ever examined any of the cable used through out the Stype to try and establish what it is made of?

Is this dreadful cable a new industry standard, are all manufacturers using it ? And of course, is it being used in current models.

The sad fact is that we will never gain access to Jaguar Global Warranty statistics. This would not only identify fault incidents but would give climatic influences. Probably never have this problem in California !

I am sure there are suitably qualified folks out there who could throw a lot of light on this subject, this could then lead on to the reason for numerous spurious malfuctions that people are plagued with.
It appears to me from these pages that practitioners throw a dart into a list of possibilities and then hope. Poor diagnosis and the subsequent cost is just not acceptable.

Bob Bates has written a couple of excellant articles on this subject, he rightly identifies a problem and the fix but I believe there needs to be an investigation to a greater depth.

I would be pleased if this subject gathered some momentum with contribution from others if only to try and understand the magnitude of the electrcal problems across the range of our cars.

Mike, I shall be pleased to hear your comments and hopefully from others as well
Good night - Oldtimer

[J44EAG]

Cable and connector corrosion is unavoidable as long as car manufacturers continue to use just plain copper core cable. A sweeping statement here, but I`ve heard it said that manufacturers are really only interested in keeping vehicles reliable for the period of the initial warranty period. After that, you are on your own. The dealers then make hay while the sun shines by selling replacement parts and labour.

Cable and connector corrosion is the bain of my life in a marine environment. Cables go black or green as moisture and galvanic action take their toll. Moisture penetrates by hydroscopic action along cables between the inner copper core and the outer insulatory sheathing. Ad to that work hardening of the cables due to vibration and sooner or later cables have to be torn out and replaced. If more people would hard wire in boats or indeed cars with tinned cable, the problem would be far less prevalent. Why does this not occur very often? Simple answer, cost. Tinned cable costs three times the price of automotive cable.

For many a long month, I have written in our magazine pages about issues with cable and connector corrosion. The causes are well known to those regularly involved with electrical installation, fault finding and rectification. No surprises about such issues to me. The age of the installation also significantly affects longevity and reliability. The older cables become, the more susceptible the become to corrosion and failure. Working environment also has a bearing so it stands to reason that a vehicle in a warm dry climate is less likely to be affected by corrosion. Not much more to it really.

Mike

[msdsx]

It was my understanding that it was electrical wires that corroded, not the cables. The window still worked when lowered using the key fob, just couldn't do it with the door switch.

Mike - you mentioned lubricating the door glass rubbers, what do you use and how? My window works but you can hear it rubbing as it raises and lowers so I'm sure mine would benefit.

[J44EAG]

There is a rubber grease on the market which I suppose would be the ultimate lubricant. In fact I saw some on ebay recently. Might be worth a look.

My garage used to just rub WD 40 on the channels which worked well for a while. The trouble is it tends to evaporate and get washed away during car washing. Yesterday I used a finger full of Vasaline which allows the window glass to rocket up and down the rubber channels. Only time will tell how long its properties last. I was pleased with the result so went around all four window channels and gave them a birthday as well.

Regarding the lift cables, it is they that are made from the stranded stainless cable. They don`t corrode, they just snap under tensile load!

Copper electrical feed wires are the ones that do corrode or embrittle with time, vibration and moisture ingress. Otherwise known as "The Curse of the Galloping Galvanics"!

Mike

[Montana5]

I find Silicon spray with straw applicator to be ideal.

Doug.

[Montana5]

Still on the topic of wiring, but on a lighter note Lucas Replacement Smoke Kit

Doug

[oldtimer]

Doug, - Brilliant

Oldtimer

[oldtimer]

Hey Doug,
See new post - Retro radio fit -he should definately bid for that Lucas Smoke replacement kit!
Oldtimer