Needed a new clutch in my 3.4 so at the same time decided to change the gearbox to a Supra w58 its all done but its still at the garage as there is quite bad vibration even when the car is in neutral and is revved up i am quite concerned as the mechanic is scratching his head a bit any ideas would be welcome
Bob
GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Moderators:Aceman, ecosselynx
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
What was the state of the gearbox before fitting?
Where's the vibration coming from, does it go away with the clutch depressed, does it drive OK? It could simply be a duff box - worn input shaft/bearing.
I had to look up Supra W58 [1] as I had no idea what it was but even Japanese engineering can wear out; especially if it's 25 to 30 years old.
[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_W_transmission#W58
Where's the vibration coming from, does it go away with the clutch depressed, does it drive OK? It could simply be a duff box - worn input shaft/bearing.
I had to look up Supra W58 [1] as I had no idea what it was but even Japanese engineering can wear out; especially if it's 25 to 30 years old.
[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_W_transmission#W58
Simon
Brighton
Sussex
Brighton
Sussex
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Hello Bob,
how was this gearbox mated to your engine, adapter plate or special bell housing? What would concern me is the concentricity of the new gearbox relative to the engine?
Alec
how was this gearbox mated to your engine, adapter plate or special bell housing? What would concern me is the concentricity of the new gearbox relative to the engine?
Alec
Mk 2 3.8 (long term restoration), MK1 Triumph 2.5 P.I. , 564 Hymer Motorhome
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
It comes as a kit with all the parts required including the drive plate from a company called Realm engineering near Broadway in the cotswalds the guy whose doing the job was a JEC recommendation so i am pretty sure he is doing all he can to sought it out. T he vibration is not constant and appears only at a certain level and makes no difference whether the clutch is depressed or not only thing he has told me this morning is that the front pulley looks as though its got a wobble is it possible that could not be helping? The Supra W58 is used in several applications due to its strength and reliability and Realm will tell you they have very little trouble with them they have a great website where you can see the replica D AND C types they build.Thanks for the input so far i need to get to the bottom of it soon as its booked in for some paint
Thanks Bob
Thanks Bob
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Sorry forgot to say it is bolted via an adapter plate
Bob
Bob
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Hello Bob,
it's possible the rubber bonding on the damper is breaking up so worth having a closer look. Failing that I suspect the engine will have to come out again, or is it possible to remove the Toyota gearbox without dropping the engine?
Alec
it's possible the rubber bonding on the damper is breaking up so worth having a closer look. Failing that I suspect the engine will have to come out again, or is it possible to remove the Toyota gearbox without dropping the engine?
Alec
Mk 2 3.8 (long term restoration), MK1 Triumph 2.5 P.I. , 564 Hymer Motorhome
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Yes the box does come out without taking the engine out is the front pulley independent of the damper?
Bob
Bob
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Hello Bob,
I couldn't remember but looking at my parts book the pulley and damper are separate items.
I was thinking it would probably be the damper that was the cause of the wobble, as even if the bolt was not tightened fully, the pulley would still run fairly true?
Alec
I couldn't remember but looking at my parts book the pulley and damper are separate items.
I was thinking it would probably be the damper that was the cause of the wobble, as even if the bolt was not tightened fully, the pulley would still run fairly true?
Alec
Mk 2 3.8 (long term restoration), MK1 Triumph 2.5 P.I. , 564 Hymer Motorhome
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Thanks AlecHello Bob,
I couldn't remember but looking at my parts book the pulley and damper are separate items.
I was thinking it would probably be the damper that was the cause of the wobble, as even if the bolt was not tightened fully, the pulley would still run fairly true?
Alec
my manual shows much the same and David Manners confirmed they are seperate its beginning to look as though the gearbox is going to have to come out again which is a B more sleepless nights trying to figure things out i must be sad
Regards Bob
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ecosselynx
- Posts:265
- Joined:Sun Sep 02, 2007 12:08 am
- Location:Magnou, France
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Hi Bob
I did fit a Getrag box to my car. I can't think of anything for you to try before you take the box out unfortunately, but a couple of thoughts and suggestions for you once you get the box off.
a) First check that the box rotates freely by hand from input to output in each gear, then get the box firmly clamped down and secured. Get a big drill with a low speed and attach the chuck to the input spigot (keep a tight hold of the drill) and see if you can repeat the free running in each gear checking for any vibrations or noises. If this is Ok, then your box is probably alright.
b) Mark the clutch and flywheel alignment, install the alignment tool and check the clutch is still aligning easy, then remove the clutch checking for any loose bolts and any signs that things have been chattering.
c) with the clutch off, make sure the clutch centre freely slides up the spigot shaft.
d) bolt the box up to the engine (no clutch) and check that it all bolts up freely and rotates freely in gear also.
That should keep you out of trouble for a couple of hours!
I did fit a Getrag box to my car. I can't think of anything for you to try before you take the box out unfortunately, but a couple of thoughts and suggestions for you once you get the box off.
a) First check that the box rotates freely by hand from input to output in each gear, then get the box firmly clamped down and secured. Get a big drill with a low speed and attach the chuck to the input spigot (keep a tight hold of the drill) and see if you can repeat the free running in each gear checking for any vibrations or noises. If this is Ok, then your box is probably alright.
b) Mark the clutch and flywheel alignment, install the alignment tool and check the clutch is still aligning easy, then remove the clutch checking for any loose bolts and any signs that things have been chattering.
c) with the clutch off, make sure the clutch centre freely slides up the spigot shaft.
d) bolt the box up to the engine (no clutch) and check that it all bolts up freely and rotates freely in gear also.
That should keep you out of trouble for a couple of hours!
bye-o
John H.
John H.
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Thanks John always reassuring to know your not on your own when problems arise unfortunately i,m just trying to help the guy who is doing the work wont know anymore now until next week but will post when we find the answer
Bob
Bob
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stuarthardy

- Posts:488
- Joined:Thu May 14, 2009 8:56 pm
- Location:North Shropshire
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Have you considered checking the engine and gearbox mountings, especially the stabiliser at the back of the engine? Simply disturbing them is sometimes enough to introduce a vibration. I would definitely check that before tearing it apart again.
Crankshaft damper is next favourite. I really hope it doesn't turn out to be the gearbox.
Regards
Crankshaft damper is next favourite. I really hope it doesn't turn out to be the gearbox.
Regards
Stuart
1962 E-Type FHC
1969 420 Daimler Sovereign
1994 X300 XJR
1962 E-Type FHC
1969 420 Daimler Sovereign
1994 X300 XJR
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Hi StuartHave you considered checking the engine and gearbox mountings, especially the stabiliser at the back of the engine? Simply disturbing them is sometimes enough to introduce a vibration. I would definitely check that before tearing it apart again.
Crankshaft damper is next favourite. I really hope it doesn't turn out to be the gearbox.
Regards
its looking very much as though you could be right it appears the gearbox mounting is too ridged after he removed the mounting and supported the rear with gearbox stand all vibration disappeared so he is now fabricating a new rear mount with something less rigid perhaps using the original spring anyway fingers crossed.Next project power steering there was an original factory setup on ebay i did bid but not enough i think it went for £400+ would like to fit that type of power steering but would obviously have to be prepared to pay more will keep my eyes and ears open.Thanks for the advice Stuart and thanks to all those who have taken the trouble to post
Best Regards Bob
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Hello Bob,
"Next project power steering"
Put some more air in the tyres
I have actually managed to buy a Mk 1 2.4 steering box after a long hunt which is higher geared, I'll have to see what that's like when I eventually get the car running?
Alec
"Next project power steering"
Put some more air in the tyres
I have actually managed to buy a Mk 1 2.4 steering box after a long hunt which is higher geared, I'll have to see what that's like when I eventually get the car running?
Alec
Mk 2 3.8 (long term restoration), MK1 Triumph 2.5 P.I. , 564 Hymer Motorhome
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ecosselynx
- Posts:265
- Joined:Sun Sep 02, 2007 12:08 am
- Location:Magnou, France
Re: GEARBOX PROBLEMS
Hi Bob
The phrase "never assume" springs to mind. Even the original used a spring type mounting, surprised that your kit was hard mounted! maybe something was missed out, as all the different conversions I've seen have had some sort of flexible mount. Suggest you get back on to your supplier.
The phrase "never assume" springs to mind. Even the original used a spring type mounting, surprised that your kit was hard mounted! maybe something was missed out, as all the different conversions I've seen have had some sort of flexible mount. Suggest you get back on to your supplier.
bye-o
John H.
John H.
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