Internal door trim

[djb200]

I want to remove the door card (n/s) as I think the door water shedder might be defective. Is this straightforward? Can anyone take me through the process?

Johnb

[Brakebuster]

Hi,
its not to complicated but you will need to be carefull all the way,

first of all remove the chrome striker for the internal light switch, this is at the front of the door card ( 2 screws ), then remove a screw at the bottom end of the door pocket undeneath the pocket ,
then you will need to remove the chrome trim to the top of the inside pull handle, this can easily damage the leather , so get a bit of masking tape or such like and wrap round the handle from the chrome for a few inches down the handle, gently pry the chrome off the clip and gently work it away from the door card, this exposes another screw, then gently going round the outside edge pull out the trim clips holding the card on , there arnt any on the top of the doorcard tho, now ur ready to remove the doorcard,
simply pull up and out from the door to remove the door card, but not to harsh as there are a few bits of electrics to remove, the door pocket light and the speaker wires, if this was the drivers door it would also be the mirror controls,
some peeps remove these electrics first by removing the items, but i dont think its necessary to do so,

hope this helps
and good luck

BB

[djb200]

Thanks BB I will give a go on the weekend (weather permitting)

Johnb

[SimonR]

Yeah, thanks BB - I was watching this thread because I have to do the same thing soon to try and fix the central locking.

When I lock the car from the Driver's side I hear the passenger lock mechanism trigger and the switch moves half way but it's as if it needs adjustment fullt to lock. At the moment I am locking the car from the passenger side so the key fully closes it. What does anyone think - is it just adjustment or are the solenoids known for becoming too weak to activate the lock?

While we're on the subject, should a 1987 3.6 manual have central locking on the boot, too? Mine doesn't seem to.

Sorry to hijack your thread, djb but I think you got the answer you were after!

Cheers, all.

[Brakebuster]

no problem.....to both of you ,

the door lock could be a couple of things going wrong , first of all you may have a ' sticky ' lock , so the solenoid cant pull it properly, secondly the solenoid could be duff, but its usually a case of it works or it dont as electro magnets ( solenoids ) dont usually get weak, just the spring inside that resets it does,

thirdly it could be the brass adjusting bolt in the middle of the control link to the lock, it may need adjusting one way or the other then locking off with the small nut at the end of the brass adjuster ,

i would try to lubricate the lock from inside the door first, try the key on that side and operate several times to ,

hope this helps ( again , lol )

BB

[jaydev]

Hi Chaps,

Sorry to bother you about another door related topic BB but, when i try to lock the doot on my driver door the system locks then un-locks straight away. would you know what it could be? sorry to be a pest.

Regards.

Jay

ps its a 1990 v12 coupe

[Brakebuster]

Hi,

usually when the car locks and then unlocks straight away its a sign of a stuck solenoid operating one of the locks in your car, this could be the door you are using , but its more likley to be the door you dont use very much , or even the solenoid for the bootlock if you have electric opening on the boot,
with this in mind be aware that siezed linkage or latches will have the same effect, ( by restricting the movement of the solenoid ) , so be sure to lubricate the machanisme properly in all your doors , you can use grease , but do not use wd40 for the lubrication, just use it to free up the machanisme then when working grease it up, as wd40 will dry out , you can get proper lock mechanisme grease form most motor shop outlets,

hope this helps

BB

[jaydev]

Thanks BB, i will give it a go. for info, when i loxk the passenger side its ok. although sometimes it also behaves in the same manner.

once again thanks for the info.

Regards

Jay

[GlennH]

Hi Jay,
This seems to be common to the XJS. My '89 XJR-S is doing exactly the same thing, from the passenger's door you can lock all three doors with no trouble, try it from the driver's door and all three immediately unlock again, mine occasionally blows the fuse too when this happens. My plan is to lubricate the whole mechanism on the passenger's door first to see if that sorts it out. I'll post the results here. Please let us know how you get on with yours.
Cheers,
Glenn.

[JimMann]

Hi guys, I have experience of the same issue, but it first came to light when engaging drive (mine has the auto lock when driving off). The prime cause is the linkage(s) starting to freeze up, usually on the passenger side, and can be indicated by the fact that the internal door handle does not fold back into rest position when released. If you don't want to remove the door card, you need a release spray with the tube nozzle. With the window fully down, direct the spray down the trailing edge of the door, aiming for the latcher mechanism. Work the door handles at the same time as spraying intermittently - watch your shoes as the excess spray comes out the drain holes onto your toes. Also spray the release fluid onto the externals of the lock, again on the trailing edge of the door, but this time exterior - obvioulsy the door should be open whilst doing this. Use a scew driver to activate the lock (imitating the striker) as you do this. Work both the internal and external door handles to release after you "lock" the door with the screw driver. After it all frees up - usually only takes a few minutes, then you can use a spray grease to get the lubricant into position, again with the tube nozzle. Wipe off any excess fluids with a soft cloth.
Reason it works with the key, is that the key is manually activating the lock rather than the solenoid on the side you are using the key.

Jim
1992 XJS Convertible