Another new member with a wiring question.

[Ian3.4]

Hello to all,

Not just a new member but also new to Jaguar ownership. After many years and many "classic" I have realised my dream and got a 3.4 (1961)

It has a new engine and has been converted to an alternator and initially luminition. However it just would not run prpoerly and I have gone back to points etc, and it runs fine. I am told that I need a new wiring loom and in truth the original does display some noticeable "distressed" areas that show signs of patching. the last thing I want is a major short and, heavens forbid a fire. On occasions the brake fluid / handbrake warning light fades away when the ignition is switched off and at other times cuts off immediatley (as does the ignition light)

Does anyone have any experiance of replacing the engine bay/instrument wiring loom and if so how complex a job is it? ( I realsie its not a Sunday mornings work!)I gues that after 47years it is probably no surprise that there are issues.

Thanks for any feedback

Best regards, Ian.

[ecosselynx]

Hi

I re-wired my Mk2, if your going to do all you mentioned, then you may as well just do the whole lot.
I first tagged all the wires (to what and where they are attached) plenty of photo's showing wire runs and how clip/retainers are attached. Adding pull strings before puling the wires out (just makes it easier to pul the new wires back). Once all the wiring was out, I then over laided it with the new loom and checked all the wires with a multi tester, before then tranferring the tags, also make sure all the terminals are the same size on the new loom or change to suit your car.
On the ignition, I have had the same type for 10 years and not a bit of trouble. Maybe check that the box is properly earthed and wired as per the instructions.
As you said it's not a Sunday morning job, but worth doing and will save you a whole lot of problems.

If I can help you further drop me a note

John H.

[Ian3.4]

Thanks for that John, the advice on tagging and such is well taken. You suggest doing it all, does'nt the rear loom (lights etc) to the boot, run through the sills?

Thanks again,

Ian

[ecosselynx]

Hi Ian

Yes your correct, interior lights as well all end up going through the sills. If tie good string to the wires then pull the wires back, if they hang-up you use the string to work them back and forth to free them, mane thing is not to pull them untill they get jammed, be gentle. Best done with two people one to keep tension on the string and the other pulling the wire.
There are gromets (or should be) at the front, middle (inside the car) and back along the sill (in the rear wheel arch). Remember and have long lengths of string, once you have the wire out, tie off the strings to where the wires originated from as you don't want to loose the string. The main objetive it to get the old wire out with the string attached and the new wire back in, so take it slowly.

Hope that is of help, have a look and plan it out, to get comfortable with how your going to do the job.

regards

John H.

[Ian3.4]

Thanks John,

I do intend to do this as I suspect its long overdue, may just wait for spring however, the garage is a cold place at this time of year and...... well enough excuses, I'm sure you know what I mean.

I shall have winter of planning, dont supose you have any idea where I can source a new (old but good) air inlet vent for the front top scuttle? It seems to be a non available part, have tried the usual sources and no joy.

thanks for the help so far, no doubt I will be back with more quetions on the re wire!

best, Ian

[Ian3.4]

Well, Its taken a while but I have finaly done the deed and the 3.4 now has a new front loom, a new 1-2-3 dizzie, silicone leads and several other bits that have solved many problems.
The old loom broke apart on removal, it was so brittle and in some places the insulation had rotted away and live wires were mm apart. She now runs very well indeed and there are other benifits, lights work well, as do all the electrics, 2 speed and park wipers, are all working fine, even the glove box light.
I have also had the bonnet louvered, coombes spats fitted and the new paint has gone on, so she looks great.
Many thanks to those who offered advise and suggestions, now I can continue the "run in" on the new engine and begin to enjoy the car properly.

Again Thanks. Ian.

[peterdpps]

Now you've done yours do you want to do mine one Sunday morning?

[Ian3.4]

Take a tad longer than a Sunday Morning, but it really is worth it, everything remotley conncted (even the glove box light) now works.

best of luck

ian3.4

[ecosselynx]

Hi Ian

Glad to hear you have finished and all is well. I'm sure in the day's ahead your motoring will be all that more enjoyable, without the worries of old and fragile wiring.

good on you

John H.

[peterdpps]

Seriously, I try to do one big project each year or so and whilst it's great to get 'sexy' things installed like air-con, pas, central locking etc sometimes you have to invest in the boring things. that make the car go.
Wiring is one of those boring things but can obviously be a safety concern on a 40+ year old car.

[JyrkiLaukaa]

Rewiring project is waiting for me too - I'm a littele nervoud about this. One detail question: how did you manage to 'pick up' wires from the loom going to center pillars (light+hand brake)?

[ecosselynx]

Hi

See post above from the 24th Nov. You take the old wires out with a string attached, which then helps you bring the new wires back.

bye-o

John H.

[JyrkiLaukaa]

I noticed the good hint but too late for me

Main probem is that I replaced my car's outer sills with new ones and thus would have to remove those strings anyway.

Here is my plan (!):

a. There is a whole at the rear of the sill (rubber plug in wheel arch) which gives you a straigh line without bendings to the front whole in the sill.

b. Trying by using two wires: one thicker and one acrylic thin one (3mm). The thinner would be for the center pillar wires and is very flexible.

c. Loomings are fed gently from the front hole while my friend is pulling the wires from rear.

d. Trying to notice when the thinner cable can be seen from the center hole in the sill and then pick it up with a small hook.

e. Then you pull the rear string and the center 'string' (attached to the center pillar cables).

Hopefully this will work Will take pictures during the rewiring progress and publish them on my projects www-site.

PS. My English is not very good and sometimes don't understand all tricks described here.

[smiffy]

Hi folks
Professional electricians use a handy piece of kit for pulling new cables through without lifting floorboards and the like. It comes in two versions, one being in nylon about 3mm diameter, the other is stainless steel tape, but I can't remember what the proper name is. They are something like 5m long, and have loops or eyes at each end to attach the cable to. I've used one of the nylon ones at home for re-wiring the house; they are reasonably easy to thread through joist spaces, through stud walls, and the like. I would have thought one would pass easily down a sill or B post. They are strong enough to withstand a good pull on the cables. Might be worth a try.
Best wishes, Dave

[jwment]

Just in case you want to buy one without feeling self concious, the mini rodding tapes you refer to are usually refered to as a "mouse".

If you don't particularly want to fork out for a proper one, the spring type curtain wires are just as good. If you're brave enough, you could always hint that her window nets are looking a bit grubby, and borrow the wires whilst she's washing them. Be a bit subtle though, or you could be dipping into your wallet for new nets.

John M.