Kevin
A special tool is required to lock the camshafts and the job is quicker (and therefore cheaper) with experience (or access to JTIS).
Aside from a "Main Stealer" I would never let anyone other than an experienced and recommended independant specialist loose on my car.
Up to you of course.....its your car and your money.
Timing Chain Tensioners
satisfaction
Kevin, Why not ask the guys who have had the work done satisfactorly if any of them are in or near enough to your address to make a journey its worth it ........i go all the way from Leeds to Alan proctors at Worksop to have any paint jobs done.......satisfaction is worth a lot........Joe 
Guys
Thanks for your thoughts on this and I must admit I would rather go to someone who knows what they are doing, so agree with you both.
Ok, I live in Eyemouth so does anyone know of someone who could do the job who is fairly close? either in Scotland or across the border. I have made contact with David Marks about this and I know I would get the job done properly from him but I would still be interested to know if there is anyone a bit closer who is obviously not a main dealer.
Thanks once again.
Thanks for your thoughts on this and I must admit I would rather go to someone who knows what they are doing, so agree with you both.
Ok, I live in Eyemouth so does anyone know of someone who could do the job who is fairly close? either in Scotland or across the border. I have made contact with David Marks about this and I know I would get the job done properly from him but I would still be interested to know if there is anyone a bit closer who is obviously not a main dealer.
Thanks once again.
prices
quick message had my tensioners done on friday (3rd gen) on the isle of wight by our clubs sponsor.just over £300 including parts. very good price i think! so anyone fancy a trip to the island and getting your tensioners done feel free to email me and ill give you the number. cheers 
one love!
Tensioners
Robo...........most of the other guys with larger quotes included the water pump and the thermostat mate, which brings it into a slightly higher price bracket.
Its becoming the norm now to have all three done as a matter of course......for peace of mind Joe
Its becoming the norm now to have all three done as a matter of course......for peace of mind Joe
(IF A JOB IS WORTH DOING DO IT PROPERLY)
You guys report that the going cost for upper tensioners is £400 i have many years of jaguar experience and i would strongly reccomend replacing all tensioners chains and guides (including lower ones) as the lower guides can break up.
if you have asked a dealer for a price "to replace timing chain tensioners" and been quoted around the £1400 mark they have probably included the lower tensioners. This to me seems the sensible thing to do
(IF A JOB IS WORTH DOING DO IT PROPERLY)
if you have asked a dealer for a price "to replace timing chain tensioners" and been quoted around the £1400 mark they have probably included the lower tensioners. This to me seems the sensible thing to do
(IF A JOB IS WORTH DOING DO IT PROPERLY)
Tensioners 2
Jagtech on reflection that is of course the common sense answer to the problem, but the general overall tensioner problem has been with the top tensioners. The mileage is a factor too, the lower tensioners malfunctioning is rare compared with the top ones and the pointers we give in here are the views of Jaguar specialists, and mechanics who also work on the cars every day, your points are of course correct, but the general point re the tensions is the one we receive the most in this forum. Its the same with the water pump and the thermostat being done at the same time as the tensioners, not altogether an immediate issue but to be done as a common sense precaution as your post suggests....
however your comments are appreciated especially from experienced Jaguar technicians, as are any sensible posts that help members with maintenance issues ........
.Joe
however your comments are appreciated especially from experienced Jaguar technicians, as are any sensible posts that help members with maintenance issues ........
.Joe Picked up my 4.0 XJ8 today from XJK in Newcastle-Under-Lyme. They've done an excellent job, for a very decent price (just under a grand, including all chains, tensioners and waterpump). I will definitely use them again.
My car is a 2001, with 87k on the clock. The upper tensioners were about to let go (cracked the full length of the body, and slippers worn down to the metal). More worryingly, the lower tensioners were also cracked and worn: not pretty!
This goes to show that the problems can arise on lower mileage cars, without any warning noises. So basically, I'd advise changing the lot, as soon as possible!
My car is a 2001, with 87k on the clock. The upper tensioners were about to let go (cracked the full length of the body, and slippers worn down to the metal). More worryingly, the lower tensioners were also cracked and worn: not pretty!
This goes to show that the problems can arise on lower mileage cars, without any warning noises. So basically, I'd advise changing the lot, as soon as possible!
I guess there are two schools of thought on this:
- Just change the upper tensioners
- Change all the tensioners and chains.
My car had all of them changed before I bought it, but I definitely wouldn't contemplate doing only upper tensioners. I've seen two engines let go recently which had had the uppers already changed. On one the chains had obviously stretched and within 2000 miles had jumped and made an awful mess. On the second engine, the lower tensioner broke up causing a similar mess.
I think there's enough evidence now to say that top tensioners only is a false economy, but we all do what we think is right based on our personal views and the size of our wallets.
As regards waterpump and thermostat - I guess anyone running with the original waterpump would definitely change it at the same time. The thermostat - I'm not sure. If I thought it had been changed at some point in the car's life, then I wouldn't bother. If you have to do it later then it's only a five minute job to change it even when everything is in place. However, if you're trying to avoid draining some collant first, then don't try and do it with the car facing nose-down - you'll lose 6 pints of coolant - I know this!!
Paul
- Just change the upper tensioners
- Change all the tensioners and chains.
My car had all of them changed before I bought it, but I definitely wouldn't contemplate doing only upper tensioners. I've seen two engines let go recently which had had the uppers already changed. On one the chains had obviously stretched and within 2000 miles had jumped and made an awful mess. On the second engine, the lower tensioner broke up causing a similar mess.
I think there's enough evidence now to say that top tensioners only is a false economy, but we all do what we think is right based on our personal views and the size of our wallets.
As regards waterpump and thermostat - I guess anyone running with the original waterpump would definitely change it at the same time. The thermostat - I'm not sure. If I thought it had been changed at some point in the car's life, then I wouldn't bother. If you have to do it later then it's only a five minute job to change it even when everything is in place. However, if you're trying to avoid draining some collant first, then don't try and do it with the car facing nose-down - you'll lose 6 pints of coolant - I know this!!
Paul
1995 XJS 4.0 Convertible
1980 XJ-S Pre-HE
Jaguar 4.2 Supercharged engine (but not with a Jaguar body..)
1980 XJ-S Pre-HE
Jaguar 4.2 Supercharged engine (but not with a Jaguar body..)
Oh dear......the controversy over this rumbles on.
I must take issue with Paul's assertion that in his opinion (which he is fully entitled to)
"there's enough evidence now to say that top tensioners only is a false economy, but we all do what we think is right based on our personal views and the size of our wallets."
I cannot accept the issue is as simple as that.
I repeat the advice from our Club experts which is:
There is a known durability issue with the two earlier versions of upper tensioners. They have been known to fail unpredictably at at very low mileages,and because of the expensive consequences,they, and the water pump,(for the same reason) should be upgraded as a precautionary measure....... WHATEVER the cars mileage.
The lower tensioner has a completely different design and does not have a similar durability problem.
This component,as well as the chains, is subject to wear and will in time need replacing.
This is a decision predominantly related to mileage covered and the kind of use the car is put too but a worn lower tensioner gives plenty of warning (by rattling) when its on the way out.
It seems to me that to change the upper tensioners and water pump only on a car with (say) 40K is a prudent precaution,and economically sensible.
If the car has done (say) 80K the lower tensioner and chains will be worn to a degree anyway and in that situation it may be sensible to renew them as well.
However others may think differently (its their money!).......it seems they do.
But the Club expert's advice is good eneugh for me.
I must take issue with Paul's assertion that in his opinion (which he is fully entitled to)
"there's enough evidence now to say that top tensioners only is a false economy, but we all do what we think is right based on our personal views and the size of our wallets."
I cannot accept the issue is as simple as that.
I repeat the advice from our Club experts which is:
There is a known durability issue with the two earlier versions of upper tensioners. They have been known to fail unpredictably at at very low mileages,and because of the expensive consequences,they, and the water pump,(for the same reason) should be upgraded as a precautionary measure....... WHATEVER the cars mileage.
The lower tensioner has a completely different design and does not have a similar durability problem.
This component,as well as the chains, is subject to wear and will in time need replacing.
This is a decision predominantly related to mileage covered and the kind of use the car is put too but a worn lower tensioner gives plenty of warning (by rattling) when its on the way out.
It seems to me that to change the upper tensioners and water pump only on a car with (say) 40K is a prudent precaution,and economically sensible.
If the car has done (say) 80K the lower tensioner and chains will be worn to a degree anyway and in that situation it may be sensible to renew them as well.
However others may think differently (its their money!).......it seems they do.
But the Club expert's advice is good eneugh for me.
Dave,
That's a fair challenge. I don't disagree that you should get more warning as regards chain wear or failure on lower tensioners. I also accept that on a low mileage car, you wouldn't expect such a high incidence of failure on the chains and lowers.
I just think that most of our vehicles which are now up to 12 years old will most likely be in excess of 40k and unless you've owned it from new, you never really know what sort of life and servicing it's had.
If you're doing the job yourself, to me, it makes sense to do the whole job properly whilst you've got the engine bay stripped anyway. The price of uppers, lowers and chains is under £200. If you're paying someone to do the work then I agree the cost disparity becomes a big factor.
The unfortunate aspect in having to make the decision is the cost if you're unlucky to "get it wrong". As we know, the remedial cost if the chains let go is really quite unpleasant!
I'm just grateful that mine were done before I bought the car or perhaps I'd also be sitting pondering the choices as are other members.
Good luck to everyone, whatever your choice! I'm just off to change my coolant temp sensor. At least that's a cheap part and an easy job (famous last words?).
Paul
That's a fair challenge. I don't disagree that you should get more warning as regards chain wear or failure on lower tensioners. I also accept that on a low mileage car, you wouldn't expect such a high incidence of failure on the chains and lowers.
I just think that most of our vehicles which are now up to 12 years old will most likely be in excess of 40k and unless you've owned it from new, you never really know what sort of life and servicing it's had.
If you're doing the job yourself, to me, it makes sense to do the whole job properly whilst you've got the engine bay stripped anyway. The price of uppers, lowers and chains is under £200. If you're paying someone to do the work then I agree the cost disparity becomes a big factor.
The unfortunate aspect in having to make the decision is the cost if you're unlucky to "get it wrong". As we know, the remedial cost if the chains let go is really quite unpleasant!
I'm just grateful that mine were done before I bought the car or perhaps I'd also be sitting pondering the choices as are other members.
Good luck to everyone, whatever your choice! I'm just off to change my coolant temp sensor. At least that's a cheap part and an easy job (famous last words?).
Paul
1995 XJS 4.0 Convertible
1980 XJ-S Pre-HE
Jaguar 4.2 Supercharged engine (but not with a Jaguar body..)
1980 XJ-S Pre-HE
Jaguar 4.2 Supercharged engine (but not with a Jaguar body..)
Hi Dave,
I think the idea that the lower tensioners will definitely make a noise when they are worn is incorrect: mine were heavily worn, cracked, and there was no noise at all.
If I was buying another XJ8, I really would get the lot changed. It's good for peace of mind, and it's a lot cheaper than a new engine.
I budgeted for this job when I started looking at XJ8s. When you consider how cheap XJ8s are at the moment, they're still a bargain even if you have to add the price of this job.
I think the idea that the lower tensioners will definitely make a noise when they are worn is incorrect: mine were heavily worn, cracked, and there was no noise at all.
If I was buying another XJ8, I really would get the lot changed. It's good for peace of mind, and it's a lot cheaper than a new engine.
I budgeted for this job when I started looking at XJ8s. When you consider how cheap XJ8s are at the moment, they're still a bargain even if you have to add the price of this job.
Hi everyone,
will stir this a bit still - my understanding is that the official Club expert advice dates back at least a few years. In the meantime our cars are getting older and chewing miles. If anyone is presently planning to address the tensioner issue to a ten year old car, he should definitely have it done completely.
In my car with 100 kmiles I originally thought of replacing the upper tensioners only, but after starting the work I just couldn't put it all back _not_ knowing what's down there. Eventually, although the lower tensioners were perfectly ok, I found two chain guides cracked(the nylon) in the middle with 3-4 mm gaps. No previous noises in starting or running.
So I ended up replacing all chains, guides and tensioners. Additionally, the lower tensioner in its latest generation has a ratchet mechanism which does not allow the piston to move back at all, which makes it practically bulletproof. So why not to replace them too - as a bonus you also get a far better engineered part.
For me, being a car aficionado, it basically comes down to a feeling that "I know now what I have in there". With so much bad publicity around the failing tensioners even peace of mind is enough for me to justify the costs.
- Ari -
will stir this a bit still - my understanding is that the official Club expert advice dates back at least a few years. In the meantime our cars are getting older and chewing miles. If anyone is presently planning to address the tensioner issue to a ten year old car, he should definitely have it done completely.
In my car with 100 kmiles I originally thought of replacing the upper tensioners only, but after starting the work I just couldn't put it all back _not_ knowing what's down there. Eventually, although the lower tensioners were perfectly ok, I found two chain guides cracked(the nylon) in the middle with 3-4 mm gaps. No previous noises in starting or running.
So I ended up replacing all chains, guides and tensioners. Additionally, the lower tensioner in its latest generation has a ratchet mechanism which does not allow the piston to move back at all, which makes it practically bulletproof. So why not to replace them too - as a bonus you also get a far better engineered part.
For me, being a car aficionado, it basically comes down to a feeling that "I know now what I have in there". With so much bad publicity around the failing tensioners even peace of mind is enough for me to justify the costs.
- Ari -
1999 XJR - 7" LP, Quaife ATB etc.
Lower tensioners
As the problem goes on and on the reasoning why we only recommended the upper tensioners and the water pump plus the thermostat was, and still is only a guide on recommendations from experts working every day on the 308 vehicles.
The forum is based on the practical pricing for members who run on a tight budget .....but we don't criticize any official reasoning from other expert technicians who have contact with the mark.
Its common sense if a vehicle has done 100 K miles as Aris car has done and he strips down the engine for the top tensioners job then checks the bottom and finds faults then of course the whole job should be done.
But Ari can do the jobs he is experienced......most of us in here are not.
But if it has done high mileage then at least have it checked out.
A main dealer is very expensive because of the bottom tensioners as well as the top ones are done as a matter of course.
I did mine for my own satisfaction and peace of mind after only 35,000 miles so the bottom ones i did not contemplate.
We do have some really good advice in this forum ( for all members) so its take your choice, work to your own pocket, and your own peace of mind.
I only hope we point you in the right direction...Joe
The forum is based on the practical pricing for members who run on a tight budget .....but we don't criticize any official reasoning from other expert technicians who have contact with the mark.
Its common sense if a vehicle has done 100 K miles as Aris car has done and he strips down the engine for the top tensioners job then checks the bottom and finds faults then of course the whole job should be done.
But Ari can do the jobs he is experienced......most of us in here are not.
But if it has done high mileage then at least have it checked out.
A main dealer is very expensive because of the bottom tensioners as well as the top ones are done as a matter of course.
I did mine for my own satisfaction and peace of mind after only 35,000 miles so the bottom ones i did not contemplate.
We do have some really good advice in this forum ( for all members) so its take your choice, work to your own pocket, and your own peace of mind.
I only hope we point you in the right direction...Joe
Hi All, i have been reading with interest the problems with the tensioners,water pump and thermostat.I am wondering if i should replace top and bottom tensioners as the car i have has only covered 15000 miles.I know that because of the low mileage that probably means nothing,but i am in two minds of what to do.
Also did you buy your parts from the dealer or elsewhere? Graham
Also did you buy your parts from the dealer or elsewhere?
GrahamWho is online
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