Petrol tank fitting

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xj6steve
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Petrol tank fitting

Postby xj6steve » Tue Oct 06, 2009 11:24 pm

Hi, I have a new petrol tank to fit to my series 2, so firstly is this a fairly simple DIY job and secondly, its supplied as plain metal so anyone recommend what finish to put on it before fitting, I was thinking a red oxide type primer paint. Thanks!

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almcl

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Postby almcl » Wed Oct 07, 2009 8:00 pm

It's just a matter of undoing the bolts holding on the quarter panels, the four screws holding the filler neck, the bolts in the boot that hold the tank brackets, plus the one under the exhaust heat shield, the feed, drain and vent hoses, the pump connections and the sender unit.

If they've been moved recently it's not usually bad. If they haven't been moved for a while then they can be stiff or worse.

If you have mud flaps those may need to be removed, too.
Al McL
'93 XJS 4.0 - '20 XF 2.0 Sportbrake

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xj6steve
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Postby xj6steve » Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:57 pm

Thanks for that, doesn't look too complicated, but it is the original tank being removed for the first time so I guess I will need the WD40 to hand!

Any opinions as to the paint finish I should give the new tank before I fit it - it is bare metal at the moment and I feel it should have something on it.

Steve.

ManxNeil

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Postby ManxNeil » Thu Oct 08, 2009 6:00 pm

Hi, Steve,

Certainly a couple of good coats of red oxide primer, but a top coat should really go on that. On my Mk2's tank I used black stonechip resistant paint.

Cheers,
Neil
Mk2 3.8; X350 4.2SE

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almcl

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Postby almcl » Thu Oct 08, 2009 7:11 pm

it is the original tank being removed for the first time so I guess I will need the WD40

Fairly good chance, I think. I managed to find some stainless fasteners at Stoneleigh to replace the qtr panel tank ones, not sure if this will help all that much but as I usually shear at least one, you might need some spares.


Any opinions as to the paint finish I should give the new tank before I fit it

The original was green I believe, so some Hammerite or similar in that sort of colour might be good. Also a sound deadening sheet was fitted, to stop drumming, I assume. You might want to put one of those on. You'll see where when you remove the old one.
Al McL
'93 XJS 4.0 - '20 XF 2.0 Sportbrake

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xj6steve
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Postby xj6steve » Thu Oct 08, 2009 11:00 pm

Thanks for the replies guys, all good stuff.

Steve.

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J44EAG

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Postby J44EAG » Fri Oct 09, 2009 7:32 pm

I`d do a belt and braces job here I think. Three coats of two pack epoxy primer followed by a four coat single pack polyurathane finish. It works on my boat for tanks in a hostile damp condensatory environment. No rust pertrusion or penitration after eleven years. Good as the day I did the job.

Regret to say that I do not fully agree with the red oxide primer treatment. It was good in its time but a two pack primer will give a much more resiliant finish over a longer time. Red oxide is some what stone aged given the more modern alternatives available to us.

Worth mentioning that mild steel and stainless do not mix well when in contact with each other. The stainless is likely to survive but the nice new tank will become erroded by galvanic action.

Mike Kennedy. S-type co-ordinator JEC

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Postby stuarthardy » Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:04 pm

Hi

Mike's right on this. Red oxide is old school, epoxy and PU paints are far superior.

I also painted inside my new fuel tank using POR 15 US Standard Tank Sealer (from Frost). This will help stop the tank rotting from the inside out over (just seal up all th holes, pour in the paint, seal up the filler hole and swirl it about for a few minutes). It is supposed to be good for repairing pin holes in tanks but I don't like the idea of trusting a coat of paint to hold back 10 gallons of volatile fuel.

Also, stainless steel is great in its place but, as Mike said, it will corrode. Most stainless steel fasteners are made from grade 304, which will rot like mad in the presence of salt water and will also exacerbate the corrosion of mild steel in contact with it. If its all painted then it should be fine as long as the paint stays intact. However, you are going to be better off using good quality plated steel fasteners, preferably zinc plated with a passivate coating. If you can get grade 316 stainless fasteners then this will be much better than 304 but it will still corrode.

Hope this helps.

Regards
Stuart

bobinvictoria
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Postby bobinvictoria » Fri Oct 23, 2009 9:32 pm

Great discussion! I enjoyed the dialogue and the information will likely be valuable with respect to my Series III XJ6
bobinvictoria


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