Rear Number Plate Housing
Moderators:MarkX, mike020150
As a new boy I wonder if anyone can help as to how to go about replacing the 'suround' to which the rear number plate is fixed?
Hi David ,
This is no problem , if your number plate is a stick on type (ie no visible bolts) simply gently prise the plate free of it's adhesive strips/pads , if it's secured by bolts/screws undo these .
The "surround" be it a black painted one or stainless steel is normally held on with 6 "pop" rivets , drill the heads off with a 3mm drill bit and the surround will come off , once off carefully drill the remainder of the rivets out .
To fit your replacement you can rivet it back on with a rivet gun ( cheaply obtained complete with rivets from car accessory/diy store) One thing to bear in mind is that some of the genuine Jaguar surrounds take a larger than standard number plate , the width needed is the standard 20.5" but the height is a little under 5" so buy a plate from someone like https://www.aplates.com/aplatesshop/platebuilder.asp and sand the bottom edge so it's a really snug fit in the surround .
If you fit a "standard" rear plate to the larger Jaguar surround I think they look a little odd but thats up to you
, I prefer to secure the new plate with self adheasive strips rather than bolts but thats a matter of personal choice as well ,
Hope this helps ,
Nik
This is no problem , if your number plate is a stick on type (ie no visible bolts) simply gently prise the plate free of it's adhesive strips/pads , if it's secured by bolts/screws undo these .
The "surround" be it a black painted one or stainless steel is normally held on with 6 "pop" rivets , drill the heads off with a 3mm drill bit and the surround will come off , once off carefully drill the remainder of the rivets out .
To fit your replacement you can rivet it back on with a rivet gun ( cheaply obtained complete with rivets from car accessory/diy store) One thing to bear in mind is that some of the genuine Jaguar surrounds take a larger than standard number plate , the width needed is the standard 20.5" but the height is a little under 5" so buy a plate from someone like https://www.aplates.com/aplatesshop/platebuilder.asp and sand the bottom edge so it's a really snug fit in the surround .
If you fit a "standard" rear plate to the larger Jaguar surround I think they look a little odd but thats up to you
, I prefer to secure the new plate with self adheasive strips rather than bolts but thats a matter of personal choice as well ,Hope this helps ,
Nik
Antigua Blue XK8 Coupe.....1998.75 MY.....Reg No ..N1XKO
Hi David ,
Jaguar sell them at reasonable prices , failing that try Eric at Eurojag for a secondhand one , I've used them plenty of times and found them very good .
E-mail Address:
eric@eurojag.com
Business Information:
Company: EUROJAG
Web Page: http://www.eurojag.com
Don't buy an alloy or plastic one they generally look nasty in my opinion and the jaguar one's are stainless steel ,
Hope this helps ,
Nik (and no , I don't work for them )
Jaguar sell them at reasonable prices , failing that try Eric at Eurojag for a secondhand one , I've used them plenty of times and found them very good .
E-mail Address:
eric@eurojag.com
Business Information:
Company: EUROJAG
Web Page: http://www.eurojag.com
Don't buy an alloy or plastic one they generally look nasty in my opinion and the jaguar one's are stainless steel
,Hope this helps ,
Nik (and no , I don't work for them )
Antigua Blue XK8 Coupe.....1998.75 MY.....Reg No ..N1XKO
Hi Both
I am not too sure if the Jag ones are stainless - I fitted mine last week and I am sure it was chrome plated - but hopefully I will be proven wrong! My black frame was not rusted - I just wanted the brighter finish at the rear of the car. I think it looks good with the chrome (MY2001) boot lid finisher.
The job will take 15mins to swap the plate - as said, drill out the 4 pop rivets and swap. If you buy a Jag plate "frame" then you get new pop rivets with it along with the plastic body inserts and screws for the numberplate too.
One thing to do though is consider doing something to prevent the dreaded rust appearing underneath. I paided the underside and just used some insulating tape to the frame so that it was at least plastic that was pushing against the body. We will see if that makes any difference going forward!
You may be surprised to see rust underneath not just on the number plate surround but on the boot lid too if its gone too far!
Heaven knows why they were not better finished originally....
I would agree that the original Jag frames look best. I have an aftermarket one and my original black one going on ebay soon - no point in keeping them if I am not going to use them!
David
I am not too sure if the Jag ones are stainless - I fitted mine last week and I am sure it was chrome plated - but hopefully I will be proven wrong! My black frame was not rusted - I just wanted the brighter finish at the rear of the car. I think it looks good with the chrome (MY2001) boot lid finisher.
The job will take 15mins to swap the plate - as said, drill out the 4 pop rivets and swap. If you buy a Jag plate "frame" then you get new pop rivets with it along with the plastic body inserts and screws for the numberplate too.
One thing to do though is consider doing something to prevent the dreaded rust appearing underneath. I paided the underside and just used some insulating tape to the frame so that it was at least plastic that was pushing against the body. We will see if that makes any difference going forward!
You may be surprised to see rust underneath not just on the number plate surround but on the boot lid too if its gone too far!
Heaven knows why they were not better finished originally....
I would agree that the original Jag frames look best. I have an aftermarket one and my original black one going on ebay soon - no point in keeping them if I am not going to use them!
David
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