www.jec.org.uk

Hi Folks,
Still tinkering with my newly acquired '99 3.2 which came without fobs but very pleased so far nevertheless. Obtained 2 fobs from different but reliable sources. One had 2 off 3v CR2016 batteries in whilst the other had one only 3v CR2032 - so not sure which is correct. Both are LJA type and BA suffix. Anyhoo - tried all of the methods of programming mentioned here and on other forums but to no avail. The flashing method (be quiet at the back!) produced no sound but after FOUR flashes the red lamp by the gear selector flashed once only - is that correct or should it continue flashing? I have checked and lubed the little flap inside the ignition lock which now closes OK and now makes the 'bonging' sound after manual unlocking and the alarm sounds if you don't get the key in the ignition lock smartish - which I understand is correct.
Are there any fuses which need checking for the locking/alarming module?
I could live without the remote system but being an engineer I like things to work the way they were intended where possible.

Rob Jenner has the definitive on programming them, if you email him I am sure he can help,

andy

errrrmmmm, it was me who supplied one of the fobs and the programming instructions!!!

Oops!, sorry Rob, I didn't mean to implicate you as neither fob has worked yet, so I'm sure there is something more fundamental. As I say, I still don't know which battery setup/voltage is correct, or if the one only flash on the J gate surround is correct either. Using the second method of programming involving the Valet switch produced no results either - other than it's now in Valet mode and I can't get it out - the books tell you clearly how to put it in valet mode, but not how to get it back out! This info MAY be in the security booklet (which I don't have and was the subject of another post) If it wasn't for the fact that I'm bald, I might start tearing my hair out!

from memory on mine, when u started the engine that took it out of valet mode.....

the valet mode has to be reset with the remote, errr, bugger, may be I should send you another one up to try and see how we go

I also should now have a security booklet, I could post this up on loan, or copy and send, any good??

Ian, found a security booklet, would you like me to send or copy??

Rob

Hi Rob,
Many thanks for the offer of the book - if it's for sale, I'll buy it, but a copy will be fine if not - as an attachment by email will suffice. I'll be out in the car again tomorrow so I'll see if starting resets Valet mode. No snow here yet but might need the heated seats!!
Regards, Ian.

ok will copy as it is the 0nly one I have and goes with a car

that said I may be able to source one for you tomorrow when I see Nevill at NE Jag spares

Hi folks, firstly, many thanks for all those and their input to my remote problem - I have finally sorted it out and it now does what it says on the tin! My problem was that I did not know exactly what should be happening during programming. After thoroughly cleaning (with switch cleaner) all of the insides plus contacts and rubber diaphragm and inserting new (2) CR2016 coin cells - I still had no success. I was starting to think that there might be something more deep rooted. There appears to be no car dealer here in Orkney that has a machine for testing remotes so I contacted a Radio Ham friend to ask if he had any receiver which would detect 433.92 MHz - 'Yes, no problem' was his reply. I went round and tested the 2 remotes and neither gave any result, even with an aerial many feet tall! Stripped and cleaned them both again with white spirit and one button started transmitting! Stripped this again and re-cleaned - all buttons working on one remote only!
Out to the car and used the programming method of holding the headlight flasher and inserting key to pos 1, then 4 only flashes on stalk. The J-gate led flashed once (as it always did whenever I tried) but now the led flashed each of the 5 times of the remote press - looks promising!
Key out, shut doors and the remote works on all functions - I know it's only a small thing as the car worked fine without it, but this was like finding a 1933 penny.
(T'other remote still doesn't work, but I'll find another someday.)

good stuff, I have two cars here at the moment with the same problem, so will strip the remotes down and clean as suggested

is the remote that has still failed to operate the one I sent you??, if so you need to send it back here

Find a Radio Ham. Now I bet that's not the solution on many posts......

Good result, well done.

Thanks for that Andy,
A bit of lateral thinking often helps with these 'simple' problems. If the remote had a tell tale led like many other cars it would be easy to eliminate the possibility of a duff one - but the idea of using a wideband FM receiver to test it came to me in the bath! Yes, I know, I ought to get out more and perhaps even sell my Anorak! I still can't believe how many cleaning sessions it needed before it worked - how many more have been binned because of this?

Regards,
Ian

Now, where's that rubber duck gone?

...
Stripped and cleaned them both again with white spirit and one button started transmitting! Stripped this again and re-cleaned - all buttons working on one remote only!
...
(T'other remote still doesn't work, but I'll find another someday.)

Another cleaning agent you might like to try: a pencil eraser (india rubber). It's often recommended for use on computer connector pads and similar.

Hi Paul,
Thanks for that, I was quite happy with the result of the solvent cleaning after the many attempts, but I remembered your tip about the india rubber from some years ago with a piece of medical kit. Being brave (or perhaps foolish?) I pulled the working one apart again and used the india rubber and Hey Presto! it is much more responsive now and only requires the lightest of touch.

Thanks again,
Ian

Just forgot - I've just examined the non working fob with a very strong magnifying glass and I can clearly see a dry joint in the solder to one of the surface mount resistors - I'll re-solder that and report back - I know I'll have to reprogram the 2 together.