Waxoyl
Re: Waxoyl
Is there such a thing?! After much consideration for my 1996 XJS I decided to entrust the work to a local classic car specialist. I'd rather use an outfit who cares for/knows about the car than a franchise out to make a fast buck. But then I'm a natural cynic!
Robbie
Robbie
1996 4 litre XJS Celebration 2+2
Daimler Sovereign S1 4.2 1971
Daimler Sovereign S1 4.2 1971
Re: Waxoyl
Cynical, me? Nah, I wasn't born cynical, it started when I was about 18 months old!
But seriously, I certainly agree that if you are not able to do it yourself, then the best option is to use someone conversant with your particular model and preferably by recommendation.
As far as Waxoly goes, I'm not sure that it is as effective as it once was - just my opinion after doing a few tests in my Atlantic driven salt spray cabinet. I live on the north west corner of the Orkney mainland about 3/4 mile from the coast.
My own preference is now to use products from Bilt Hamber (I have no connection with that company, other than being a satisfied customer)
Ian
But seriously, I certainly agree that if you are not able to do it yourself, then the best option is to use someone conversant with your particular model and preferably by recommendation.
As far as Waxoly goes, I'm not sure that it is as effective as it once was - just my opinion after doing a few tests in my Atlantic driven salt spray cabinet. I live on the north west corner of the Orkney mainland about 3/4 mile from the coast.
My own preference is now to use products from Bilt Hamber (I have no connection with that company, other than being a satisfied customer)
Ian
1989 XJ-S V12 Convertible
Previous:
2000 Daimler Super V8 Anthracite with Ivory leather
1984 4.2 Series 3
1984 V12 Series 3 Sovereign
1988 V12 Series 3 Sovereign
1985 XJ-SC 3.6 Cabriolet built from new shell and donor write off - owned 24 years
Previous:
2000 Daimler Super V8 Anthracite with Ivory leather
1984 4.2 Series 3
1984 V12 Series 3 Sovereign
1988 V12 Series 3 Sovereign
1985 XJ-SC 3.6 Cabriolet built from new shell and donor write off - owned 24 years
Re: Waxoyl
Hi Ian,
I used aerosols of Bilt Hamber Dynax product on my Xk8, as recommended by Practical Classics magazine, and found it very easy to apply. The aerosols got into all the places that a paintbrush wouldn't.
I got fed up sourcing people who promised to do the job, and then changed their mind, or wanted £800 - £1,000 to do the work!!
I used my pals pit, and did it myself after donning disposable overalls and gloves, goggles etc.
Good luck!
Peter
I used aerosols of Bilt Hamber Dynax product on my Xk8, as recommended by Practical Classics magazine, and found it very easy to apply. The aerosols got into all the places that a paintbrush wouldn't.
I got fed up sourcing people who promised to do the job, and then changed their mind, or wanted £800 - £1,000 to do the work!!
I used my pals pit, and did it myself after donning disposable overalls and gloves, goggles etc.
Good luck!
Peter
Re: Waxoyl
This post caught my eye as I, too, want to get my X308 protected before next winter. I know Jaguar World magazine has a feature on DIY waxoyling coming up soon. Must confess I'd never heard of Bilt Hamber Dynax previously.
Best regards,
John.
2003 XJ8 3.5 SE
1979 XJ3.4 Se.2
2005 SAAB 9-5 Vector Sport Estate
John.
2003 XJ8 3.5 SE
1979 XJ3.4 Se.2
2005 SAAB 9-5 Vector Sport Estate
Re: Waxoyl
Hmm, Bilt Hamber Dynax sounds interesting. i will research further.
X-308 Model Section Coordinator
2001 X-308 XJR
1996 X-300 XJ Sport
2001 X-308 XJR
1996 X-300 XJ Sport
Re: Waxoyl
Hi, I used Dinitrol on my Mk2 15 years ago and it is still protecting the underside and cavities. I had used waxoyl on previous cars but found Dinitrol easier to use with a variety of products available. Their website even has an E Type on the home page I think!
Regards,
Regards,
Paul V
Mk2 3.8
Nissan Micra K13
Porsche Macan S
Mk2 3.8
Nissan Micra K13
Porsche Macan S
Re: Waxoyl
I'm with bilt hamber too s50 for internal chassis and dynax ub is surface stuff like underseal.
S50 comes in 750ml cans under hi pressure along with a long tube like lance but also in 5 litre cans so that you can blast it through your own pump / lance.
They do loads different products worth a look here http://www.bilthamber.com
Mate of mine uses dynatrol too, apparently good stuff as someone else has mentioned.
I have no connection with bilthamber apart from using their products for a few years now....went off waxoil because it seemed to have lost its edge like so many other products, wd40, plusgas, nitromors, proper household paint etc don't get me started!!!!
If you need a good replacement for wd try the Ferrosol ,..........
S50 comes in 750ml cans under hi pressure along with a long tube like lance but also in 5 litre cans so that you can blast it through your own pump / lance.
They do loads different products worth a look here http://www.bilthamber.com
Mate of mine uses dynatrol too, apparently good stuff as someone else has mentioned.
I have no connection with bilthamber apart from using their products for a few years now....went off waxoil because it seemed to have lost its edge like so many other products, wd40, plusgas, nitromors, proper household paint etc don't get me started!!!!
If you need a good replacement for wd try the Ferrosol ,..........
XK8 MY2002
Re: Waxoyl
Just to add my penneth, I have been a Waxoil advocate for more years than I care to remember. I started with this product and just continued as a matter of habit. On the other hand, our friend Martec prefers Dinatrol probably out of habit as well. The point being that the test of time has proven these products to be highly satisfactory. If corrosion has appeared it will be the areas that were missed !!! As for the other products mentioned I have no experience of them so cannot comment.
To come on to the real reason for adding my penneth is in connection with the application of Waxoil and the like. I would suggest serious consideration is given to the purchase of an air compressor and a proper Wax injection gun available from Jack Sealy tools. I recently dropped my gun and snapped the nose off. The replacement cost £72 , exactly the same prise as I paid about thirty years ago. The gun is supplied with two lances with proper end fittings which give access to all the various box sections and crevices.
In my former years I have tried various types of hand pumps and devises and concluded them to be a useless waste of money and as for aerosols they must be the most expensive route to go.
Yes, there is some initial outlay for the compressor which can be used for a myriad of other air driven jobs ( I'll leave that to the imagination ) And the cost of the gun . The only additional cost thereafter is Waxoil at £19.00 per gallon (4.5 litres)
Waxoil is available either clear or black. The black may look fine but what a mess you get into when revisiting a job at a later date and for this reason I always use the clear. I am sure that those folks with experience of doing the job will agree that it is pretty messy and would suggest those contemplating going this route should plan it out, to do the car in small sections, rather than the whole car in one go.
By the way, YOU REQUIRE A QUALITY BREATHING MASK.
I am so pleased this topic has been raised, but for a coat of Waxoil we would not see excellent looking cars going to the scrap yard with extensive under body corrosion. Good luck to those who attempt it themselves
Oldtimer
PS My ole '73 XJ 12 is still in one piece probably as a result of Waxoil !!!
To come on to the real reason for adding my penneth is in connection with the application of Waxoil and the like. I would suggest serious consideration is given to the purchase of an air compressor and a proper Wax injection gun available from Jack Sealy tools. I recently dropped my gun and snapped the nose off. The replacement cost £72 , exactly the same prise as I paid about thirty years ago. The gun is supplied with two lances with proper end fittings which give access to all the various box sections and crevices.
In my former years I have tried various types of hand pumps and devises and concluded them to be a useless waste of money and as for aerosols they must be the most expensive route to go.
Yes, there is some initial outlay for the compressor which can be used for a myriad of other air driven jobs ( I'll leave that to the imagination ) And the cost of the gun . The only additional cost thereafter is Waxoil at £19.00 per gallon (4.5 litres)
Waxoil is available either clear or black. The black may look fine but what a mess you get into when revisiting a job at a later date and for this reason I always use the clear. I am sure that those folks with experience of doing the job will agree that it is pretty messy and would suggest those contemplating going this route should plan it out, to do the car in small sections, rather than the whole car in one go.
By the way, YOU REQUIRE A QUALITY BREATHING MASK.
I am so pleased this topic has been raised, but for a coat of Waxoil we would not see excellent looking cars going to the scrap yard with extensive under body corrosion. Good luck to those who attempt it themselves
Oldtimer
PS My ole '73 XJ 12 is still in one piece probably as a result of Waxoil !!!
Re: Waxoyl
Oldtimer , I too, have a Sealey gun and can recommend it as the way to go for firing waxoil, dynatrol, bilt hamber s50 etc deep into the sills.
Aerosols are great for getting into small difficult areas under body especially if you do not have a two poster ramp but they don't have a great coverage area!
Spraying has its disadvantages in that it is easy to over spray into areas that don't need it such as the back of the sill along the lower edge, big brush is the answer here !!!
Of course a big brush can't half lash it on to the direct area but not very effective in body structures !
I use a combination of all three methods to keep on top of the problem but, as usual, if like me you buy old sheds you just have to hope the previous owners have done the business too otherwise you are already on the backfoot
Aerosols are great for getting into small difficult areas under body especially if you do not have a two poster ramp but they don't have a great coverage area!
Spraying has its disadvantages in that it is easy to over spray into areas that don't need it such as the back of the sill along the lower edge, big brush is the answer here !!!
Of course a big brush can't half lash it on to the direct area but not very effective in body structures !
I use a combination of all three methods to keep on top of the problem but, as usual, if like me you buy old sheds you just have to hope the previous owners have done the business too otherwise you are already on the backfoot
XK8 MY2002
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