PAINT CODES

[J44EAG]

PTJS 1 is correct.

T-cut contaims amonia which will burn modern paint. Use fine Faracla G3 rubbing compound with a damp polishing cloth if you must.

Note that two pack clear top coat usually comes in two forms. The cheaper material usually goes yellow given time and direct sunlight. The more expensive materials are UV resistant which is obviously preferable.

Most reputable, quality panel shops will charge around £220 per sprayed panel provided that dents do not need to be worked. It is important to realise that a cheap job us just that. Done in more of a hurry with less attention paid to the details, results will not be as good as a more expensive job. The amount of time spent in preparation dictates the outcome of the job. You get what you pay for.

Mike

[RichardSEL]

So much good info, Paul. And from Mike too. Much appreciated. The shop is well known. And used twin pack AFAIK.
Its only three shops up from Ray's workshop -- the booth is fully equipped and I spoke with the sprayer there. But collected it in the half light gloom
I'll see them tomorrow and see what they have to say. What can you expect for £300 from a paint shop nowadays? Correct colour at least IMO
Will report back

[robv12]

having checked DDW, the car is pacific Blue code JHM, but it clearly is a bad match and a poor job sadly. Most paint shops will have paint chip with six or seven shades of each paint code, they should match any paint with a colour spectrometer if they cannot match a chip by eye. My local guys have managed to match and mix all sorts of odd and one off colours for me

Take it back and get them to do it again, is where I would be

[RichardSEL]

Yes, JHM on the sticker too. Thanks for the look up Much appreciate to learn it's called "Pacific Blue". Saw the shop today, spoke with the sprayer who said straight away: "Any problems just bring it back". In this overcast gloom however it's difficult to see the difference of the, what less than half a tone?

He did add that he's got a bright daylight lighting setup in the booth too. So dependent on where he is in a current job will look at it in there.

I didn't know that even if you have the specific code you can still end up with a different colour...
Bit imprecise this paint colour thing, huh?

Anyways, positive attitude from the shop. Will report back

[RichardSEL]

Earlier on in this thread there's been warnings of not to go by the colour name. I wonder, just wonder if...
My 3.2L is coloured Pacific Blue 1605 listed from its DDW. Yet my 4L (both '01MY) is Pacific Blue JHM

Had the morning's sunlight shining directly on the affected side of the car yesterday. It definitely is a different blue. So back it goes next week.

[J44EAG]

Of slight relivance and interest is that a paint code on one year of car can change with that of say an earlier or indeed conceivably that of a later year.

As an example, PEF black (with a distinct dark green bias) on my 04 X350R, appears to be identical to PEC on an 07 X358. How do I know this? Well, I bought an old stock pre-painted boot lip spoiler recently from Black Country Jaguar. Graham being the obliging chap he is, kindly found me a black item from his stock. I`d accepted that I would have to paint it PEF prior to fitting to my car. Once it arrived, I opened the box and found the PEC label on the spoiler. Held against the car it was to my suprise a very acceptable colour match. Now fitted to the car, neither I or others can tell the difference between the two colours (if indeed there is any).

It must prove something....but I don`t know what!

Mike

[RichardSEL]

Thanks for the insights, Paul. I took it back last Monday and they said they'd attend to it.
Went back the following day (another glum and gloomy grey daylight) and it did look different.
But in the lighter light the following day seems still too dark as against the next door's Pacific Blue.

I had to go up to my body worker's shop some miles away where my second Mk IX is being body finished. Don't like disturbing them if I can help it. But they're perfectionists in what they do -- and charge accordingly.
Their next slot wasn't until end next month. But when he saw what had been done he was aghast saying it's not even been buffed never mind the wrong colour. And set about it with a "G3 compound" (whatever that is) and rotary buffing head to bring up a decent shine. That seems to lighten (to my eyes) And produce a reflection equivalent to what's reflected in the proper door's body colour.

You have to know that the door's been repainted to now recognise that the colours aren't the same. So given fully loaded '01MY Sovereign 4L LWBs with only 73k up and three owners aren't exactly the market's favourite (daft if you ask me) have decided to leave it for the time being.

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[BrianG]

Nice looking car now Richard! If you want to keep it long term, watch out for any signs of rust bubbles around the bottoms of the front wings and also check inside the wings at the back, at the bulkhead join to the inner wing, where the scuttle drains discharge into the wheel arch space (ask me how I know!).

[RichardSEL]

Thanks to Mike for the insight into Jag colours -- I've got to find what green was used in "Vertigo" for the Mk VIII that played a leading role. Alfred H was a first user of the then newly introduced Technicolor and wanted to have all his greens colour themed. So it was that various scenery, Kim Novak's clothes, and the Mk VIII's green were matched. It's only rumour (rumor even) that the Mk VIII's export green was given a blow over.
I've tried a Lechler agent down in Dartford believing they could pick up by a scanner the correct colour but that seemed all too much for them.

My Mk IX's body shop says that's what they do when there's no paint code to be found for a repair. And they also have banks and banks of colour swatches that he showed me. It's not only Jag that has different colours for the same name but different codes in that colour name too.

Point being that as soon as the sprayer saw what was going on he should've immediately stopped and done a swatch, and called me down. In the bright light of a booth it must've been obvious. That way it could've been wiped down with white spirit which would've taken off what's already gone on the car

They did know. They thought they'd get away with it by telling me to pick the car up in the evening when it wouldn't show. When I arranged to collect the car this time they also said: "best to come the day after tomorrow, in the evening". Yeah, right.

It's still noticeable, but only if you know what to look for

@Brian, will have a look at the body places you mention. There's also a couple of places under the rear screen lower rubber that are bubbling both about ½" diameter. Otherwise it's (was) pristine. And now I've sorted out and exchanged a warped front alloy, it really shifts yet returns 21MPG mixed mode

[PeterDavisX300]

I have discovered another nasty little rust-trap behind the chrome boot-trim. I have a really rust-free X300 Sovereign, and recently had a reason to remove this trim. The bolts that hold the trim on are apparently often tightened down quite hard to hold the trim close to the boot panel. This tightening breaks the paint on the inside of the boot which results in hidden-rust. I suggest getting a new rubber seal, and some new Stainless-Steel M5 studs for a set of new SS nuts to be fitted with penny-washes over penny rubber washers to take-up the slack without breaking the paint on the inside. Fortunately mine was only rusty on the inside on one of the outside studs. But I would bet a lot of the 300/308 models have a good bit of rust behind that chrome trim. Lovely dark-blue car by-the-way!

[RichardSEL]

Having given the original paint shop the opportunity to put right what should've been right in the first place; got the quote from my Mk IX's body shop (£300 to re-do the wrongly sprayed panel and £200 to remove the wrong paint back to primer and also blend into the adjacent panels and correct the wheel arch trim) They also re-did the coach line.

Collected last week, and like Ernie's hair, you really can't see the join! They used a spectroscope thingie and the match is perfect Also had the bubbling at both bottom corners of the rear screen done and a scratch for another £100 each. Given that the mix was already prepared thought that prudent.

As the frosts are still quite thick round here haven't taken it to my favourite Albanian car wash yet to post a pic.
Dunno how long to wait, especially in these temperatures, before doing so?

Have invoiced the original shop who immediately tried to claim that it wasn't them that had my car
Here we go again. Amongst all the stars, there appears to be so many divs in the motor trade...

From what's been posted in this thread in the past, moral is: you can't trust a paint name, you can't even trust a paint code -- especially from a so-called trusted aftermarket supplier. But the alternative is Jaguar main agent spray shop. Who can afford those charges?

[RichardSEL]

Just an update...

Due to the Mk IX's shop wanting even more money (but you should see the quality of the panel work they're producing) put all my four cars on the market and left it in the lap of the market gods to decide what I'm left with.

Course, first to go was the one I really wanted to keep -- this 'ere 4L LWB. But given the state of the market, and the silly low prices even decent '01MY low mileage ones are going for decided to accept the offer.

My favourite Albanian car wash excelled themselves with a wash 'n shine. And as the happy new owner turned out of my road, the late evening sunshine glinted on the... <sniff>

So that just leaves those bunch of pr... that caused all this paint grief in the first place. They've acknowledged Service. Guess this time next year I might get some money back... ?

[RichardSEL]

Forgot to update.

The spray shop got a solicitor who wrote a letter -- that must've cost them an hour at London rates plus the letter. The next I heard within a few days was said solicitor's cheque paying me in full.

Still, out of the many that this shop don't paint correctly guess only a few are like me and actually follow up