XJ8 4.0L N/A starter removal.

[xjscharlie]

Hello Folks,
Looks like i need to remove the starter could anyone advise the best way of doing this or point me towards a video. Could'nt find anything on the forum and also checked under Electrical. Think that someone must have done it. Any help appreciated. Rgds. Charlie.

[Andy P]

Hi Charlie,
I found this DIY 98 Jaguar XJ8 starter motor R&I article on the internet:

Open the engine compartment and fit paintwork protection sheets.
1-Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the battery cover.
2-Place the vehicle on a ramp.
3-Working from below the vehicle, remove the steering rack for access.
4-Disconnect the starter motor main terminal. Reposition the rubber boot from the main terminal. Remove the nut from the starter motor main terminal. Disconnect the main cable from the terminal.
5-Disconnect the starter motor solenoid terminal. Reposition the rubber boot from the terminal. Remove the nut from the solenoid terminal. 6-Disconnect the cable from the terminal.
6-Remove the starter motor securing bolts. Remove the upper securing bolt. Preferably, use a short 13 mm spanner or a Snap On Half Moon spanner CMX1113 to initially loosen the bolt. (Refer to the next step). Remove the lower securing bolt. Carefully remove the starter motor.
7-The upper bolt may be removed (after loosening) using a 3/8 square drive 13 mm socket, extensions and U.J as shown.
Installation:
1-Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the starter motor securing bolts to 35-48 Nm.
2-Refit the steering rack as detailed in Operation 57.10.01. Refill the reservoir with the recommended fluid and bleed the steering system.
3-Lower the ramp. Remove the protection sheets and close the engine compartment cover.
4-Connect the battery and fit the battery cover. Reset the radio information and the clock.

Also this one,without removing the steering rack:

I found that 2-3" extentions with a 13mm small socket on the top bolt going to a universal joint at the rear to 2-6" extentions connected to a wrachet was the speed solid way.Better than what was posted.

Great thing is you can feed the socket and two-3" extentions with the swivel from the top bolt side backwards laying on top the starter and connect it to the bolt and the just plug your two 6" extentions with the wrachet from below and just go.

I tried this several times with different tools and set ups even what Jag posted and it worked great and the best.NOW PRIOR to turning that bolt the Two 3" extentions and 13mm socket line up perfect for a top head 3/8th breaker bar in a straight line so no worry of gumming it up.

Then you have enough room to put a hand wratchet spinner right on those two-3" extentions and wratchet it right out without the full wratchet or the two 6" extentions.Now when installing the same top bolt CLEAN IT WELL and add green locktight just a tiny dab.Cleaning aluminum bolts is very important and the same bolt must return to the same hole.This also helps lubricate it so you can hand feed the bolt most the way back in.

Then you connect your two 3" extentions with the 13mm socket on one end and universal on the other end by feeding it backwards though the bolt side of the starter then moving it back forward on top the bolt.

That puts the universal right at the center hole at the other end and you can plug in your two 6" extentions and wratchet and go then finally when you feel pressure remove the 6" extentions and install your 3/8 " tork wrench as you have the room now that the bolt has moved the system forward and tork the bolt to spec.

It took me 20 mins to R+R the starter that is to include use of a commercial floor jack and 2 back up sands and Dialethic greese. I highly recomend the use of the two 3" ententions as you minus I think almost a half inch over the direct 6" standard bar and that gives your 3/8" u joint a clear area of movement back and forth in the center of nothing in the way.

I connected the 300mm unit in snap on and everything was rubbing and would have been a pain if I used it.

I used cheap Craftmans tools as I was going to weld them and stick the tool on the wall for my VDP but it went right in this way. I am sure this sounds to be a headache but it works very easy .The bottom is easy as you know.This system is never in a angled position it is solid straight to the bolt so you have tork in both directions.I would suggest if its a show car to convert to ARP bolts Grade 8 NFT

If you want to try it this way and it is fast and simple once you get the jist of it ,the tools for the top bolt (the hard one) and bottom are


Two 3" craftsman extentions 3/8 drive
Two 6" craftsman extentions 3/8 drive (only for reinstalling the top bolt unless no spinner)
One 3/8" craftsman universal
One 3/8" craftsman wratchet head hand spinner (optional but saves a lot of time)
One 3/8" craftsman wrachet
One 13mm short Craftsman socket
One 3/8" breaker bar top load
One 3/8" Tork wrench
_______________________________________________________________________________________

Hope that helps a bit and I understand these help with the top bolt:

Half Moon Ring Spanners

Let us know how you get on.
Good Luck.
Andy

[xjscharlie]

Thanx Andy. Thats good info. Had a look at it and it looks like you can get away with lowering the rack without removing it completely. With regard to the 2nd para detailing how to remove the starter without lowering the rack i wondered if there was a sketch of the spanner set up described? May have a go at setting that up.
Luv that phrase "the installation is the reverse of the removal procedure" which is a truism especially for those of us who have struggled to get parts back in place, lined up and torqued. Putting the starter back on and reconnected looks daunting. Rgds. Charlie.