Seized bolts on steering rack preventing lower control arm

[anaw]

All four 13mm bolts securing the steering rack were seized solid even after weeks of WD40 applications. Judiciously applied heat freed one bottom one but a new 13mm Draper socket is just rounding the bolt heads on the other three. Goodness knows how I'll ever replace the rack if it needs it. I can't be the first with this problem, any suggestions or wisdom of experience would be gratefully received.

If I can't dismount the rack I wonder if I could slacken the bolt at the inner end of the control arm, drift it back and cut the head off allowing the cut bolt to come out from the front.( they are not eccentric ). I could then fit new bolts from the front ( I then wonder is there a reason why Jaguar did not fit them that way in the first place? )

With thanks - Tony. ( B8 JXK 1997 BRG Convertible )

[Orkney]

Hi,
Not quite sure about the second part of your question as I am not familiar with your model, but homing in on the first bit regarding rounding over with a 13mm socket. First, if you are trying with a 12 sided (bi-hex)socket - even a new one - then change it for a 6 sided impact one - preferably with an air ratchet if you have access to one, which is far less likely to slip. Secondly if the heads are quite rusty, then they will be slightly small, so I often try a 1/2" A/F 6 sider which is only 12.7mm, which you might have to tap on with a small hammer. In preparation, I sometimes resort to striking the bolt head with a hammer and punch, both radially and axially, to free off the head - it's not always the threaded part which is seized. There are also some better products than WD (Wurth products and Supertrol) for slow release of seized components.
Let us know how you get on.

Ian

[Popsjag]

If you still have problems, try a set of these on them!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pce-Twist- ... 20c6b892b7

[anaw]

Many thanks to both of you, the twist socket set is a new one to me, I may invest. I had already given the bottom bolts a good melling with a lump hammer and my 13mm impact socket wasn't doing the job. . Following your reply ' Orkney', I borrowed a half inch hex from a neighbour and it did the job.
What a great resource this club is, I'll sleep better tonight.
Many thanks again both - Tony.

[Orkney]

Glad you had success - so just some new bolts and some copper grease should prevent this from happening again. I wish Jaguar had spent a bit more time with a barrier grease where dissimilar metals are together. We always had to use 'Titanine' grease in the Aircraft industry (some might remember it as Duralac) in these areas. Living in Orkney and having classic motorcycles and cars, rust really is a four letter word around here.

Ian

[MyQuest]

[quote="Orkney"] We always had to use 'Titanine' grease in the Aircraft industry (some might remember it as Duralac) in these areas.

We called Duralac "Parrot Poop" - all green and gooey...

Mike West

[Orkney]

You really need to take that parrot to the vet, Mike! We called it Knacker Lacquer. Don't try it at home!
Still available too:

http://www.marinesuppliesdirect.co.uk/d ... -428-p.asp

Almost anything is better than leaving fixings bone dry though. One small problem is that the Torque setting is different with a lubricated bolt - probably obvious when you 'feel' how much easier it is to tighten them with lubrication added. There's probably a data sheet/chart somewhere on't web - I bet someone got a Ph. D out of it.
Ian

[Orkney]

Just to add a footnote in case I'm guilty of leaving non-technical folk confused, I just culled this from the net:


BOLT TORQUE FACTORS

LUBRICANT OR PLATING TORQUE CHANGES

Oil - Reduce torque 15% to 25%
Dry Film (Teflon or moly based) - Reduce torque 50%
Dry Wax (Cetyl alcohol) - Reduce torque 50%
Chrome plating - No change
Cadmium plating - Reduce torque 25%
Zinc plating - Reduce torque 15%

Baseline torque is calculated for a non-lubricated, un-plated bolt

If in doubt on a Torque - critical component, always consult the manufacturers/seek professional advice.

Ian

[anaw]

Job done, it took three hours of working the steering rack studs back and forth before I got all four out. I mixed some copperease into the WD40 to try to get some lubricatiion into the threads.

As a footnote answer to my original question, NO YOU CAN'T CUT THE BOLT AND FIT NEW ONES FROM THE FRONT, the bolts are stepped to fit different sized holes in the flanges.

Thanks again - Tony.