Front subframe V Mounts

[JohnFrewer]

Has anyone replaced these. Mine look like they are
delaminating. I've got the new ones and it looks to me as if
you can unbolt them (probably with loosening the steering
rack) and just lower the subframe at the back to slide the
replacement in. Or do you have to undo the front and support
the engine too? The JTIS CD doesn't go into detail for just
doing the v mount.

Regards
John

[mike020150]

Hi John, I haven't done the job but I know that the Jaguar approved method involves: supporting the engine from above; releasing the top shocker mounts; releasing the steering column to rack and electrical connectors; releasing the engine mountings; and undoing all of the subframe mountings to gain sufficient clearance to replace the rear ones. It would be good to hear if you manage to shortcut these recommendations. Mike.

[JohnFrewer]

Just a bit of feedback. It seems you can do it by just dropping the rear. I'll let you know if I develop any faults from having stretched or bent anything but so far so good.

Here's what I did:
Tools
I used Draper T40 and T55 75mm in a half inch drive adapter to undo the torx star bolts to the mounts
21mm and 18mm sockets for the lower suspension arm front and rear bolts
13mm socket for the steering rack bolts

Jack on the front jacking points. Make sure handbrake on and rear wheels chocked securely.
Axle stands under the front beam (it's covered with a plastic shield) NOT on the alloy subframe itself.
Jack with a wooden block to support the rear of the subframe
Remove front wheels
Undo the four 13mm steering rack bolts and let it hang
Undo the front and rear lower wishbone to subframe bolts both sides to allow access to one of the T40 bolts each side by moving the wishbone out of the way
MAKE SURE THE SUBFRAME IS SUPPORTED BY THE JACK
Undo the centre T55 bolt
Undo the four T40 bolts
Make sure both sides are undone, then lower the rear gently on the jack until there is just clearance and then reapply the jack until it JUST supports the frame and make sure it's locked off so it doesn't drop without you realising.
Getting the old ones out was dead easy as they'd completely delaminated and came out in 3 pieces each side. You may have to lever the centre part of the tapered chassis peg as it corrodes on to it.
I put plenty of copperslip on the taper joint and thread holes of the new mount.
To get the new one in requires a little leverage between the subframe and chassis to slide the new one onto the peg. This is why you need both sides undone and will probably need to do both sides at the same time.
Loosely fit the centre bolt and then the four T40 bolts on each side so that it easily lines itself up when jacking the subframe back. Then jack it back gently but not so as to lift the car off the axle stands as the subframe isn't designed for this.
Tighten the torx bolts to 77NM centre and 26NM for the four smaller bolts.
Reposition and tighten the wishbone bolts to 100NM
Refit the rack (not sure what torque for these. I did them to 40NM)
Refit the wheels, lower the car and torque up the wheel nuts on the ground.

It may be possible to do it without undoing the wishbone but you risk mashing the head of the T40 bolt by the wishbone unless you have a narrower torx bit than the draper. The draper doesn't hit the bolt head square on with the wishbone in place due to its shaft thickness.

Note that there is a risk with doing this with a jack, however I found the subframe was limited with how far it would drop even if you let the jack go too far. It's your own risk whether you want to try it the way I have.

Regards
John