www.jec.org.uk

Can anyone help? As the header suggests, I have an oil leak from the connector, where it goes into the ZF 6-speed gearbox, above, and forward of the rear gearbox mount. I have searched the usual suppliers sites but no luck. It would help to know exactly what I need, and also, does the rear mount have to come off to provide access? Thanks in advance.

You can get the electrical connector as a separate part, but if the gearbox oil has not been changed then get it changed, that involves a replacement filter and new seals for the electrical connector. It is potentially a DIY job, John on the tothegarage website has posted detailed videos on it, as have others.

Further to Andy's points, the connector can be removed and replaced without touching the gearbox mounting, but the locking lever to allow it to be removed can be accessed only by draining the whole box and removing the sump!

I used Bristol Transmissions to provide all the bits to ensure they were all genuine ZF items at an acceptable price

The gearbox oil, sump and integral filter were changed about 3000 miles ago, shortly after I acquired the car, at 74,000 miles. No seals for the electrical connector came with the kit, though. Is it the complete connector, or just a seal which needs changing?

I will have a look for the on-line vids. As you say, a diy job, however not ideal lying on my ageing back while the front wheels are on ramps!

Thank you for your help.

Ian C.

Bristol Trans. supplied a new connector with seals fitted. It's maybe like trying to get a new seal for an engine sump drain plug;only available with a new plug!

Thanks for that. I have enquired of Bristol Transmissions, and British Parts, so I will see what they come back with. I found the 1st gearbox service video by John of tothegarage. Obviously they are different gearboxes, but presumably a similar process? I will watch the other 3!

Yes similar, though if it was done that recently then you should be ok. If you can just change the seal then that should be enough, but not sure you can..

I think doing it on axle stands would be difficult though technically possible..

Axle stands were my only option! You do need to be quite agile, especially getting the electrical connection out and back in.

You need good quality allen and Torx keys and make sure you can get the filling plug out before draining the box! It can be v tight, hence good tool requirement
Practise getting the filling plug back in before starting to fill. It's all a bit of a rush between getting the filling tube etc out when the overflow begins and then getting the plug in before the temperature gets too high

Here's my set-up
With a small size ratchet on the square end - note tape to give a tight fit - I fed this up past the exhaust, then turned it 90 degs and could visually align the plug. Then the string was used to screw it home, the ratchet allowing it to turn continuously. It worked a treat

Thanks gents; good tips. I am slightly bemused, as both companies have come back quoting me for a sleeve. Is this it......?

Sorry not sure, hopefully Astromorg can answer

Looks like it to me
The electrical connector is turned 1/4 turn anti-clock to release it. Then, when the sump is removed you'll see this white plastic tab arrangement. When pulled down it releases the sleeve that can now be pulled out and renewed. This all might need a bit of wiggle and pull

So the sleeve goes into the end of the gearbox, locked by the white tab and then the electrical plug goes into the sleeve.

Thank you for that, it is now much clearer. When we disconnected the loom end of the plug there was oil inside it. Is that a separate issue which needs addressing? Sorry for all the questions!

It's usually the failure of the sleeve which allows oil to travel back up the wiring and then cause the problems.

Good luck

Paul

Thank you all once again. The sleeve is now ordered.

Ian C.