Radiator removal needs Aircon disconnect?

[knowlesp]

According to the manual I have to depressurise the aircon and remove the drier unit to be able to get the radiator out - which makes it a garage job rather than Diy.
My car is an 89 V12 - any good tips on a workaround most welcome.

[davidr]

Good news is that you CAN take the radiator out with the aircon condenser still in place. You will have to detach the aircon receiver/dryer from the radiator top rail but that is do-able if you're careful. In particular take care with the nuts that hold the bracket for the receiver/dryer to the top rail. They will be rusted on and will easily shear. Patience and plenty of PlusGas!
I would recommend taking the bonnet off as the only realistic way of getting proper access. At the very least you will need to detach the stays to get the bonnet upright but you'll kill your back trying to lift the radiator out and it only takes a few minutes to get the bonnet off with the help of an assistant to lift it.
Good luck!

[knowlesp]

Belated response...……….
After avoiding the hot days all summer! I got round to pulling out the radiator, and getting it recored (Huddersfield radiators - first class job). While it was out I replaced the water pump and fan unit.
Hardest part was getting the transmission oil cooler hoses off - almost had to 'customise' some spanners.
Now its running so cool I may need radiator blinds for winter - so roll on Summer 2019...……..
Thanks for the reassurance, like most jag jobs, there's always a lot to shift to get to the bit that needs work, but not actually that difficult once you are in there.
Philip Knowles

[davidr]

Well done Philip. Glad it worked out for you

[greeban]

Mine runs cooler too having fitted a new radiator; bought new temp sender which brought the gauge needle closer to the middle but still reading slightly cool. Then thought the viscous coupling may be sticking and replaced with new but still same. I suppose I could try a hotter thermostat?

[davidr]

The gauge should not be pointing straight at the N. On a barrel gauge (ie pre facelift) the needle should be at the bottom on the N and on a facelift car with conventional gauges the needle should be again just below the N.
If the needle is pointed directly at the N then it is too hot

[greeban]

Great - no need to worry then; all normal!

[kenna178015crook642]

I have had a lot of experience with aircon and my advice is do not touch it get it done by a garage or an aircon specialist.

the reason why is 1. the refridgerant gas needs to be drained and its illegal to vent it into the atmosphere

2.the condenser has various filters inside it that need replaced and are notoriously difficult to get

3.when replaced the whole system needs to be flushed with a special soloution to remove any contaminents and moisture if this isnt done the compressor will fail within a few months and youll be looking at easily a 500 quid bill mybkexperience

4.the system needs to be pressure tested and refilled whicjh you cant do youreself

5.if you use a second hand one its essential all the moisture is removed from the whole system

an aircon specialist isnt as expensive as you may think and the works gauranteed i did this myself on my old vw trying to save cash in the end i had to spend over 700 quid getting it all done properly as it knackered the compressor.

[willieken49596]

I just replaced my radiator in my 2000 XK8 with a Nissens. I took the radiator out without opening the AC system as others have done. If I were to do it again I would investigate having a mobile AC man come by and evacuating and sealing the system.I would be so much easier to remove the radiator , fans and condenser as a unit as the shop manual shows. It would take 2 people to remove and install the entire unit plus the cost of a recharge and drier. But it would sure save you a lot of time and aggravation.

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