PAS leak from the pump? 6.0-94

[BjornV]

Hi everyone.

Just want to know what you think about this problem.
Car in question is a 1994 6.0l V12 coupé

I have owned the car for a few years now, and it has allways had a small PAS fluid leak.
It seems like it has slowly gotten worse.

Recently I have tried to locate exactly where i leaks from. I did expect a bad hose.
But the leaking is concentrated to the pump itself.
I am starting to wonder about if the leak perhaps comes from where the drive pully axle enters the housing.
Has anyone else experienced that?
There seems to be oil comming from somwhere at the front of the pump housing.

There exists a "Seal service kit", part no 518564J. Availiable from SNG Barratt.
Do anyone here know what seals is included in this kit and if it is possible fo a DIY to reseal the pump? I'm thinking that that may be less expensive than getting a exchange pump.

Regards

[PaulGover]

FWIW I overhauled the pump on my '91 5.3 some years ago, to cure a similar leak. I don't remember all the details, but one thing that stood out was fitting the reservoir can - basically the large tin can outside the gubbins that do the work - was a pain. It's sealed with a huge O ring (about 5" diameter) around the outside of the pump body. I managed to damage the can trying to fit the rebuilt gubbins, but luckily had a spare. You probably need to use either (a) more care than me or (b) a press, and preferably both.

[oldtimer]

Hi,
I rebuilt my PAS pump some years ago. It is an American pump . I think the spelling is something like Saginaw - and commonly used through out the JRT motors as well as others.

The service kit was probably obtained through the dealer network, I seem to remember there were seals for more than one pump type. New debris magnets are included.

I don't recall any difficulties in the overhaul other than getting it out of and returning into position.

Good luck

[BjornV]

Hello again.

I had this on hold for a while because I needed to sort new headlights for my XJ81 (XJ40 V12).
Now that is close to completion, so its time to deal with this again.

Do anyone have any experience in how difficult it could be to get the old PAS pump out?
Any tips on the best way to do it would be appreciated.

[BjornV]

What has happened here is that I took the pump out and had it sent to SNG Barratt to be rebuilt.
It took a while, but yesterday I started the car for the first time with the new pump.
Unfortunately it now leaks even worse.

I guess the main suspect is where the high pressure hose connects to the pump.
It is hard to see, but it does not look like the leak is there. I did fit a new o-ring.

Have anyone even heard of a pump leaking from the pump housing?
It seems unlikely, but the spece is so small down there so It is hard to see properly. More investigation is needed.

Thoughts and ideas are welcome.

[ng4xjs]

Bjorn

I think that I'm in a similar position. I've had my rack rebuilt, new reservoir (SNG) and hoses but it still leaks. Got through it's MOT last week but advisory to the effect rack seeping. I'm at a loss, must be leaking from the tower but just not sure. Even contemplating putting "bars leak power steering" into the reservoir.

Nick

[PaulGover]

If it looks to be leaking where the HP hose enters the pump, sealed by an O ring, check your O ring is the right size, and still O-shaped. It has to withstand up to 1500 psi, so any damage or mis-sizing will definitely leak when you turn the wheel hard. I replaced the hoses on my 91 facelift V12 and lost the O ring, and replaced it with a 1.5mm thick one, which looked to be right. Leaked like a sieve; the right size was 2mm thick. The wrong size appears to be OK until you turn the wheel hard; the rate at which it loses oil then depends on how far you've tightened the securing nut.

I suspect another cause of leaks there is having left the old O ring behind when replacing the hose; two rongs don't make a right

According to Kirby Palm's book, the most common hose leak is at the other end, where the HP one enters the rack; apparently over-tightening causes the flared end to crack along the welded seam. No cure but to replace the hose, or hose fittings if you can find a suitable specialist.