83 V12 Steering issue

[oldtimer]

Hi Mike ,
The scribes have been out in force in support of your plight. With regard the rear brakes I endorse all that has been said.

One scribe mentioned that dropping the rear suspension is not as bad as one might imagine, this is true where everything is in reasonable condition but be warned.

Under normal conditions I would have the unit out in about 4/5 hours. Now it would take 4/5 days followed by a short stay in hospital.

Let me give you a quick rundown
1 On the lift
2 Slacken wheel nuts
3.Clamp brake hose and chop off - New hose
4. Remove rear silencers and through suspension pipes
5 Disconnect hand brake cable.
6 Remove radius arm bolts and release radius arms from body
7 Refit radius arms and bolts loosely --you'll see why in a minute
8 Disconnect drive shaft.

Now remove car off lift on to firm concrete surface
1 Use double thickness 5ply jacking pad and proper trolley jack under diff.
2 Lift car and insert axle stands at jacking point just forward of back wheels.
3 Transfer car weight onto axle stands DO NOT REMOVE TROLLEY JACK
4 Remove road wheels
5 Remove Vee Block securing bolts through chassis - 8off
6 Now remove radius arm bolts and radius arms from body
7 Very Slowly lower suspension unit

SAFETY WARNING
The Rear suspension bonded rubber Vee Blocks (4off) have a habit of seperating. This will allow the whole suspension to freefall. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD ENTRY BENEATH THE CAR BE MADE WITHOUT THE JACK IN PLACE --TAKE EXTREAME CARE

POINTS FOR CONSIDERATION
The very first consideration is the level of corrosion of the radius arm, body mounting points, these mounts are like mole hills about 3 inch in diameter and stand about 2inches high, they of course hang downwards onto which the radius arm bush locates with a bolt up the centre to secure. This area suffers badly from corrosion and I'm sure repair would be mega bucks.

It is doubtful that the exhaust will be re useable as with Vee blocks ( another £100 I guess)

So we come full circle why not cut an access hole to the boot vertical floor panel to gain access to the hand brake unit. I would love to hear comment on this from others. I know some will spit feathers at the thought but better than a trip to the scrappy.

There, I feel better for that!
Oldtimer

[J44EAG]

I don`t think dropping the cage is a financially viable option, Phil. One thing always leads to another and a massive bill could easily ensue.

Indeed, I had though of having an access hatch cut and then welded up. I`ll discuss this with the repair guys on Wednesday.

Just got back from our Regional meeting up on the hill behind Portsmouth. A dozen hardy types braving the near Arctic snow, wind and ice. Treacherous driving conditions and much of the top road above the M27 impassable and closed.

Once again my thanks to you chaps for helping me decide what to do with this car. It will be a shame if the end of the line has been reached.

Mike

[BigCatXJS]

Mike,

Before you cut, call Mark at MDM Jaguar Services - he has a way of accessing and changing the rear disks and pads without dropping the cage or cutting access holes. I only know this because mine is due to have it's pads and disks changed in April.

Cheers, Rich.

[J44EAG]

Thanks, Rich.

Just had a chat with Jagcare. John seems totally unphased. Says he can fit new handbrake shoes without too much difficulty. I suggested the cutting option but that didn`t go down well. I understand the fuel tank is in the way.

Tomorrow remains the big day for this car. Lets see what Jagcare can do.

i had thought of doing the track rod end this morning, but the weather down here on the South Coast is Arctic again. Blow that for a lark!

Mike

[Reg]

I had the rear disks/pads/handbrake pads replaced on mine a couple of years ago and I'm sure he didn't need to drop the cage, as Rich says, I'm sure it can be done in situ.

[almcl]

I've done it both ways, and while they each have their disadvantages, dropping the cage at least got those weird retaining pins with the top threaded portion in correctly. Trying to insert these by feel while lying on the garage floor took me two evenings and getting the bronze spreader fingers correctly located at the same time was quite a frustrating challenge.

I have also encountered a number of installations where these weren't correctly located, so perhaps other owners found it equally difficult.

Dropping the cage isn't bad, provided the exhuast comes apart. This became a lot easier when I got an air chisel, not to destroy the fittings but to ease the flanges of the pipes apart. Of course, if the exhaust hasn't been apart for a while, things get harder...

[J44EAG]

Getting there now.

Track rod end, rack, tracking and knocking all sorted now with parking brake operating well. All fixed for a reasonable figure. So far, so good.

Re test at Halfords tomorrow lunchtime. By tea time, I hope to be cooking with gas.

Mike

[dhdove]

Mike
I'm so pleased!
Stick with it.
Best
TonyS

PS bring it to Gaydon on 28th April? Yes, I know it's a long way! But could be fun......

[J44EAG]

I`ve a nice new MOT on the old girl! Celibrated with a curry and beer at Wetherspoons. Seemed the right thing to do.

Issues all sorted with just a check re-track tomorrow. Thank you all for your advice.

I`m amazed at the attention this car gets. One serious offer tonight which came out of the blue. The car is interesting to drive. Feels like being inside a large white grand piano! The V12 is certainly an unforgettable experience. Very different to J44 which snarls and snaps and is rather like going on a rally each time I go to the shops. The XJS is markedly quiet by comparison. You can hardly hear the engine when stopped at the traffic lights. The entertainment is viewing the petrol gauge fall by the minute..........

Watch this space.

Mike

[oldtimer]

Hi Mike,
So pleased you have got sorted ,not to much of a drama after all.
You better move it on quick before you get too attached !??!
Phil

[poprivet]

Great news Mike, what was the solution to the wheel rubbing on the bodywork?

[J44EAG]

Tracking was miles out, toe in, rack not centred correctly and therefore unequal threads on either end of the rack output rods. It all ended up as the inside of the N/S tyre just rubbing the anti-roll bar on full lock.

All seems to have ended well now. Car just needs a final re track, hopefully later today if my time allows.

Cheers Al.

Mike

[J44EAG]

Final steering tweaks now done and car drives as it should and in a straight line.

Tracking done under the supervision of John at Jagcare at the tyre place next door. The garage guys hadn`t a clue about how to centre the rack with a 3/16 drill bit as a pin. Panic set in so I got John to add his weight to the situation. Don`t they teach these youngsters anything at College?!

So steering all good again. All I had to do when I got back was remove and refit the steering wheel by a couple of splines and the job has become a good one.

Even with the 225 tyres, there is no knock on lock now. All the car needed was to be correctly set up.

Mike

[Joakim]

Good to hear all turned out ok in the end with your car, and no major dramas. I'm sure you'll have it moved on pretty quickly?

Cheers,
Joakim

[J44EAG]

The car is still with me, Joakim.

One chap messing me about slightly so still first come first served as regards selling the car to a good home.

Still causing much interest here outside the Marina gate. Someone will fall for this car in due course. Only put a For Sale notice on it yesterday.

Mike