heater

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mick703
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Joined:Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:35 pm
heater

Postby mick703 » Thu Nov 14, 2013 4:21 pm

I've just purchased a 3.0 s type 2005 & the heater won't blow cold air, can anyone help?
Mick

oldtimer
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Joined:Thu Jan 19, 2012 3:19 pm

Re: heater

Postby oldtimer » Thu Nov 14, 2013 11:00 pm

Does it blow hot air?
Does it blow anything?

jeff1954
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Joined:Mon May 31, 2010 2:56 pm
Location:Stockport

Re: heater

Postby jeff1954 » Sun Nov 17, 2013 4:57 pm

Sounds like the heater valve has packed up.

Jeff
S Type 2.7d SE Auto 2004 Now sold but still a lover of older Jags.

Previous Jaguars.
1967 3.8 S Type.
Series 1 XJ 4.2
Series 2 XJ 4.2

oldtimer
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Re: heater

Postby oldtimer » Sun Nov 17, 2013 6:27 pm

May be , but a little more information might help

Martec

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Location:North Lincs

Re: heater

Postby Martec » Mon Nov 18, 2013 5:16 pm

Can I suggest that as Oldtimer suggests you give us more information to narrow the fault down, also you can help yourself by looking at the other posts on the subject of heater faults.

As a 2005 car I think you have the later heater arrangement ie a 3 hose heater valve at the front of the engine bay on the drivers side, and the later ECU for this in the later dash centre panel. I believe the later ECU is more prone to receiving and failing from an overcurrent from the heater valve, but that is the worst scenario and basic checks are required first.

Recently Mike (moderator) had the same symptom but it was only a blown fuse, others have had a seized valve (the valve block (front right of engine bay as stated before) is made up of two solenoid valves that continually open and close to control the temperature to either side of the car. If you look at the top of the valve amongst the pipes you will see a connector that only has 3 wires to it. The centre one is the live feed from the fuse(this fuse supplies other items in the heating control system) and the two outer wires go to the ECU to control either valve (open or close it). some times the solenoid coils can breakdown and a high current (in excess of 1 amp) will whack the ECU.

So you can see we do not have the information to make an assessment or offer help!

Do you have any air blowing out of the vents?
Is it both sides (passenger and driver) or only one
do you get hot air coming out of the vents?
do you have any response to the dash heater controls?
Look in your hand book to find the appropriate fuse and see if it is blown and if so does it immediately blow the replacement fuse?

I'm in the process of removing my engine and took the heater valve out just to have a look at it and to copperslip all the bolts and nut, not too difficult if it needs replacing. Also these cars do not take kindly to a duff battery. A car we went to look at had a flat battery, it was jump started and it blew only hot air and other faults, but it all recovered as the battery was recharged.

Best of luck
Brian
MY2000 3ltr S type manual standard car with leather seats, cruise control and mistral blue metallic paint.

1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated

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J44EAG

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Re: heater

Postby J44EAG » Mon Nov 18, 2013 6:47 pm

Yes, it was a blown fuse, (top left hand corner of engine bay fuse box) but the new one didn`t last long.

fault thought to be in the wiring loom behind the front OS headlamp area. Off with the bumper to see what the problem is. Chaffed, frayed, broken, waterlogged are typical issues. The loom is packed in there tight and suffers from fatigue when pulled around tight corners and objects..

Unravel the loom and see what you can find. Loads of Bob Bate articles on the subject over the past two or three years in our magazine.

Mike
X350 Co-ordinator

2004 XJR


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