Minor rust in some areas, tips to stop the rot

[PWontner]

Hi all,

I have an '88 3.6 coupe, owned it since March.

I've finally spent a day going over it in fine detail to determine the body/structural areas of concern from a rust point of view. Generally the car is in good shape and has been clear waxolyed at some stage recently.

I have noted few areas of surface rust, or nothing with anything that looks structurally concerning.

Both rear arches, minor rust spots on lower lip, leading edge.
Jacking points, both sides, I know this is an area of concern for XJS, but it only looks like surface and feels solid.
Both front arches, minor rust on inside of lower lip, leading edge.
OS door, minor rust on base leading edge.

Anyway, at some stage I dream of a full baremetal respray, but that'll be years away before I can afford it.

Can anyone recommend some treatment, that a very novice person, with hardly any garage gear (no lift/ramps) etc can do to stop the rust getting any worse and stabilising it while I save for the respray. I've seen lots of products and miracles advertised but I'm sure someone out there has had similar concerns.

The only verbal advice I've had is to sand back to bare metal, you'll truely see the issue and then spray with grey etching spray to seal it...

Any other advice welcome.

[ptjs1]

PWontner,

I think you're doing the right thing by trying to hold the rust at bay. However you really do need to get it back to bare metal. Unfortunately areas such as the arches and door skins are probably not surface rust but have come through from the other side, so you may already be looking at the need for some welding.

The most important areas are obviously your jacking points which are safety-critical. Whilst you're working down there, definitely have a close look at the radius arm mount points and above all, the safety belt mount points. Pull up the carpets and felt inside and have a really good luck. You might be quite surprised.

After you've treated the areas and painted, get some wax treatment on it. I use Dinitrol but any of the proprietary waxes will have some benefit if topped up every year.

Good luck

Paul

[PWontner]

thanks for the reply, I will start with getting back to bare metal and see what I've got.

I've just checked out the Dinitrol Wax treatment at it seems I require a compressor and airgun to apply it, which I don't have, I guess I'll see what other similar products are out there that come already in an aerosol can.

[ptjs1]

You can get Dinitrol's various different waxes in aerosol form, as with most of the other alternatives. This also enables you to buy smaller quantities.

If you're going with Dinitrol, you can get good prices and service here:

http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/rust-p ... ducts.aspx

Good luck

Paul

[poprivet]

I have an '88 3.6 coupe, owned it since March.

Welcome and that's a good choice, although I am somewhat biased

Strange beast the XJ-S rust wise, some rot like a peach while others of a similar age survive very well. Either way, any 27 year old one will have some issues but it seems like you have a good one. They all rust in the same places, it's a question of degree and how soon it is treated, I wouldn't be suprised if you find that some repairs and anti-rust have already been done in the past, not many untouched ones get to that age otherwise.

Have a read of the information given by the likes of http://www.kwecars.com/technical/buying-tips-xjs/ and Kirby Palm's on-line book etc. to see what areas you need to concentrate on.

Keep us all informed on how it's going.

[ptjs1]

PWontner,

If you want to depress yourself on XJS rusting, have a look on Andy's website here for some good info:

http://www.justxjs.com/xjs_tips_and_tricks.php

Paul

[PaulGover]

...
The only verbal advice I've had is to sand back to bare metal, you'll truely see the issue and then spray with grey etching spray to seal it...
...

That's fine for surface rust, but the killer is rust from the inside. That's what you address with Dinitrol, Waxoyl and the rest. If the bodyshell is worth it, I'd consider going to your local body shop and asking them to spray Dinitrol inside the cavities.

[PWontner]

thanks all...I'll report back

[PPV]

I would suggest that before using Dinitrol/Waxoyl/Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 etc on bare metal that something like Kurust or Jenolite or Bilt Hamber Deox/ Hydrate is applied to neutralise any rust etc. I have used these to good effect in the past to keep the dreaded tin worm under some sort of control. These will only really help with surface rust, anything more and I am afraid only replacement of the metal/rust will do.
You can get most if not all the waxes in spray can form which work well if instructions are followed.

Best of luck in keeping another big cat on the road.
Regards,

[PWontner]

Good news is that the car is already clear waxolyd at some stage, so hopefully the parts where I can see rust it is only surface.

Fingers crossed for good weather Saturday and I can work outside on it