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With spring in the air, I set off on Saturday for the Gaydon breakfast meet. The engine started, the lights worked, all looked fine. Release the handbrake and off we go. Or not. Damned thing won't move. Try a tad more throttle. A small bang, and off we go out of the garage. At which point, apply the handbrake while I close the garage door. What handbrake? Nothing, no resistance.

Of course, the bang was the sound of the rear disks pulling one of the handbrake pads off; the handbrake must have seized on over the winter. Oh well, another lesson learned.

Now to order some more pads, and find a weekend in my diary to curse and swear the inboard handbrake mechanism. I hate fitting new pads.

I hardly ever use the handbrake, mainly because it's useless The Park on the autobox is quite sufficient and if I have to leave it on a bit of a hill I make sure the wheels are turned to the kerb.

My daily car has an electronic parking brake which I don't like. There's no 'lightly on' its a full on like you would use both hands on a conventional car or nothing. Even leaving the car for a couple of days when it's wet it struggles to release. The car self-applies them when you turn the engine off and you have to go through quite a sequence to leave them off.

My sympathies Paul! Trying to change handbrake pads with it all still in the car is a painful experience! Getting the calipers out isn't nearly a bad as getting them back in again when you can't see what you're doing and you have to get the mounting pins back in by "using the force". Best of luck!
As Pop says, I hardly ever use the handbrake and never if the car is going to be standing for a while - better just to use the P setting on the auto gearbox.

Actually, I think I'll drop the rear subframe; I've not investigated that since I bought the car (25 years ago! Time flies like an arrow, XJS's fly like a banana. (I may have mixed some metaphors there)).

The handbrake will be much easier to work on if you have the facility to drop the subframe out. But you need the right kit to get it out (a lift makes it much easier) and you have to hope that it doesn't fight too much. The bits that are most likely to give you grief are the radius arms mounts and the exhaust. If they don't give too much trouble then I have removed mine using a 2 post ramp in just over 2 hours. It takes a bit longer to put back in and you will end up doing more than just the handbrake. Maybe it makes sense to do a complete brake overhaul at least whilst you have the unit on the floor?
Good luck!

The handbrake will be much easier to work on if you have the facility to drop the subframe out. But you need the right kit to get it out (a lift makes it much easier) and you have to hope that it doesn't fight too much. The bits that are most likely to give you grief are the radius arms mounts and the exhaust. If they don't give too much trouble then I have removed mine using a 2 post ramp in just over 2 hours. It takes a bit longer to put back in and you will end up doing more than just the handbrake. Maybe it makes sense to do a complete brake overhaul at least whilst you have the unit on the floor?
Good luck!

I'm asking more for my own benefit here, but would the car raised higher than is conventional from 1 use of a jack (IE, raise, then stands, raise again, stands on a slab of something, etc. etc.) be sufficient?

The handbrake will be much easier to work on if you have the facility to drop the subframe out. But you need the right kit to get it out (a lift makes it much easier) and you have to hope that it doesn't fight too much. The bits that are most likely to give you grief are the radius arms mounts and the exhaust. If they don't give too much trouble then I have removed mine using a 2 post ramp in just over 2 hours. It takes a bit longer to put back in and you will end up doing more than just the handbrake. Maybe it makes sense to do a complete brake overhaul at least whilst you have the unit on the floor?
Good luck!

I'm asking more for my own benefit here, but would the car raised higher than is conventional from 1 use of a jack (IE, raise, then stands, raise again, stands on a slab of something, etc. etc.) be sufficient?

in a word....NO

the car has to be around 800mm or more off the floor at the rear for the diff cage to be pulled out, trust me I know , and getting a car stable at that height is tricky and dangerous given the weights involved . don't forget, its not just the height of the cage but also the lifting/lowering equipment underneath the cage as well

some jobs need to be done with the right equipment

BB

I totally agree with BB. I've also removed the rear subframe in the past and you need plenty of height.

If the car is at a steep angle the forces acting could easily pull it forwards. Either do it right or let a professional do it.

I learnt my lesson many, many years ago when a Landrover I was working on moved off a scissor jack with me underneath. Luckily a Landrover has more ground clearance then a Jaguar else I wouldn't be here.

Removing the IRS using a lift is very much easier as you can get easy access to everything and lifting the car up away from the suspension unit is a different prospect than trying to lower it whilst having limited access and control over its descent! The significant prospect of damaging the car and more probably me was why I didn't take this job on at home. BB did his at home (he's got bigger you-know-what's than me!) and as he says, you need to raise the car up a long way to clear both the cage and whatever you want to drop the cage onto so you can manoeuvre it out.
Rebuilding the IRS is a realistic prospect in your own workshop as you'll see from my thread in the Suspension section but it is a big heavy lump and impossible and dangerous to manhandle alone.

This is an extract from my latest article which I sent to our Editor just ten minutes ago. I`d not read this thread until two minutes ago.

It seems appropriate that I copy and paste this text here now. If there is any doubt, don`t do it. Work safely and do not take chances.

"Safety considerations.
I know we have heard this many times, but it is essential to work safely. Cars are heavy objects and it is all too easy to have one collapse upon you particularly when removing or tightening up bolts with a long torque wrench. Vehicles are not so easy to get back up again if the worst were to occur. Any under car work requires the use of well constructed axle stands as a minimum measure. I use an axle stand and heavy timber bulks and wedges together as an added belt and braces security measure. You can't be too careful, especially if working alone. Brake overhauls can often be done one corner at a time. This is rather easier than jacking and securing a car with all four wheels off the ground at the same time. Once securely placed on axle stands with preferably additional blocking also in place, always rock the car around to ensure it cannot move in any direction. This is most important".

Mike K

Removing the IRS using a lift is very much easier as you can get easy access to everything and lifting the car up away from the suspension unit is a different prospect than trying to lower it whilst having limited access and control over its descent! The significant prospect of damaging the car and more probably me was why I didn't take this job on at home. BB did his at home (he's got bigger you-know-what's than me!) and as he says, you need to raise the car up a long way to clear both the cage and whatever you want to drop the cage onto so you can manoeuvre it out.
Rebuilding the IRS is a realistic prospect in your own workshop as you'll see from my thread in the Suspension section but it is a big heavy lump and impossible and dangerous to manhandle alone.

lol, the cage was much easier than the gearbox , again , on my own !!!


but in all seriousness , don't take risks , i was using six axle stand, and had my block and tackle holding up the engine from the steel beam across my garage , and i still struggled for space and clearance , as David says, once out its nice and easy ( though still heavy ) to work on and refurbish the cage , and most satisfying to put it back in again

i think search may well dig up some pics of my exploits

work safe

BB

David R
In the above text you say it is easier with a lift, in a previous text I believe you said that you used a two post lift. A two post lift is ideal for this job giving total access and flexibility where as a four post lift, as I have, is not suitable for this job. In fact I believe it to be potentially very dangerous. Sorry to be "picky " but I believe it to be an important point of safety.

I would agree, As David has already said Removal of the suspension is not a bad job except for the exhaust and potential problems disconnecting the radius arms