4.0 Facelift Oil Cooler

[cjnsharpe124]

Can anybody help with advice on how to remove the oil cooler on a 1995 XJS Facelift 4.0?

The oil cooler on my car has failed and dumped oil over the water radiator, front spoiler etc. The metal pipes going to the cooler are corroded and there is also a leak either from the rubber/metal connection on the cooler pipe or the pipe connection into the bypass block. To fix this I need a new cooler and pipes but the pipes are NLA, everybody says the pipes are all but impossible to remove from the cooler and the whole job looks very expensive. There is a strong body of opinion that says the oil cooler is not required unless in a very hot climate or you are towing a caravan over the Alps. As I live in UK and don't have caravan I am thinking I will fit the bypass valve EBC4124.

I would like to remove the oil cooler and pipes rather then leave them loose. The Service Manual starts with 'Slacken and remove the oil cooler pipe unions' but I can't see the oil cooler let alone slacken the unions.

Any guidance on how to remove the oil cooler or other advice? Thanks.

[almcl]

I had to remove my oil cooler in 2006 (longish thread here viewtopic.php?f=41&t=962&p=4156&hilit=oil+cooler#p4156 ) which you may already have seen?

Unfortunately at this distance in time, I can't remember the details, except that I cut the pipes with a mini pipe cutter. I've an idea that the radiator grille and possibly the radiator top panel came out to facilitate access.

The thread referenced above lists the parts used, although I can't remember who supplied them.

What I can say is that in the following 18 years, I haven't missed the cooler and, running on 10W 40 semi synthetic oil from our local manufacturer, the oil pressure remains above 400 kPa on our runs to Ireland. The mileage now stands at 106,000.

[ptjs1]

cjnsharpe124,

From memory, I think you remove the radiator grille, disconnect the pipe connections under the cooler and then remove it from the front.

It's likely that the leak is from the hose connections, but as you've recognised, you'll probably destroy the cooler removing the pipes.

When I did mine, the pipes remained intact, so I just replaced the cooler. If / when I get a similar problem again, I'll fit the bypass that I have sitting in the garage. I really don't think you need the cooler in the UK.

Good luck

Paul

[cjnsharpe124]

To update on this. I decided to fit the bypass block EBC4124. I found a second-hand original Jaguar unit and bought new 'O' rings from SNG Barratts.

To make life easier I removed the oil filter which made access to the oil-cooler pipes to block connection much easier. The pipes are held in by a plate and a single screw. I placed a shallow container underneath to catch the oil (not much about 200ml) and they came out quite easily. A 1/4" socket with a wobbly extender is helpful. It was a bit mucky with oil around this area so I took the opportunity to clean it as this would also make it easier to see any leaks after I had installed the bypass. I thought I might have to replace the stud used to fix the bypass but I didn't, it was a straightforward swap. I cleaned up the bypass block and internal brass connectors (EBC4244) and fitted the new O rings (CAC5118). You will need a very thin walled ring spanner or socket to tighten the nut that holds the bypass in place. I used a long 1/4" drive socket. Once it was tight I re-fitted the oil filter (I re-used my old one as it was only a few weeks old but it is a good time to fit a new one).

I decided I would leave removing the oil cooler itself to another day but I wanted to remove the flexible pipes so they weren't flapping around. At the start of the job I had sprayed a liberal amount of WD40 on the flexible/rigid pipe join, Fortunately I had 1-1/16" and 1-1/4" AF open ended spanners which were perfect for undoing the joint and mine came undone quite easily.. I put some rag underneath to catch the oil. I then stuffed some rag up the end of the pipes and to keep these in place I cut the fingers off a black latex glove which were a nice tight fit prophylactic over the rigid pipes. A small cable tie over the prophylactic behind the ridge in the pipes completed the seal. All in all the job took about one hour and everything could be accessed fro the top.

I have now done a few hundred miles and so far no leaks and no obvious change in engine temp. If anything oil pressure is a little higher which is counter-intuitive. Next job is to remove the oil cooler itself.

[ptjs1]

cjnsharpe124,

Good job, well done!

I would get the cooler out as soon as is practical. If there is still some oil in it and it is still leaking out, it will end up throwing onto the lower fins in your engine rad and will damage them as the oil collects road dirt. In fact, when you're in there, removing the cooler, examine the engine rads carefully as they are really prone to damage in the lower third of the rad.

Cheers

Paul

[cjnsharpe124]

Yes I agree. The lower part of the water rad is already covered in oil from when the oil cooler gave up and I can see gaps where there should be fins (very similar to the picture you posted back in 2019 only blacker due to the oil). I was in the car today and got into some traffic and the engine temp went up so this afternoon I have been looking at replacement rads vs new core.

From reading the forum davidr recommends removing the bonnet which for someone working on their on their own seems a bit daunting. I am also sceptical about getting the alignment right when re-fitting the bonnet if one goes down that path. I am hoping it can be done without removing the bonnet.

I am thinking that if I remove the radiator then it will be easier to get to the oil cooler and get that out. Any advice on other things to do whilst it is out as you have more access to the front of the engine. (1995 AJ16, manual, 78k miles).

[davidr]

Hi - did you get any pictures as you did the oil bypass job? It would make a good magazine article!
Regards
David

[cjnsharpe124]

Sorry no, I'll try and take pictures on the next job.

[ptjs1]

cjnsharpe124,

I'm not sure if having the engine rad out helps with getting the cooler out. If you see my first pic below, you'll see that access isn't impacted with the engine rad in place. Also, when I took my rad out, I didn't remove the bonnet. I didn't even disconnect the bonnet struts, also see pic below.

As regards replacement or recore; whilst an ali rad can sound like a good idea, there's a lot of cheap imported rubbish out there which can quickly leak as it's not so easy to seal ali tanks. I'd go down the recore route of your existing rad if I were you.

As for other jobs, you'll obviously check all the hoses. Some of them aren't available new, especially the complex and expensive lower octopus hose. You also might want to check the wiring and integrity of the horns when you remove the oil cooler. They can be a pain to get to when they go wrong (and they will eventually!)

Cheers

Paul