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Chaps,
Anyone who has tried to adjust the front wheel bearings whilst in the process of greasing them will having experienced the problem of having to completely reassemble the splined hub and re fix the wheel before being able to check the free play top to bottom and side to side.
Whilst greasing mine today I came up with, what I hope will prove to be of some help, an idea to save having to take it all apart again.
I took two pieces of ply wood, drilled the correct size holes to fix onto the hub, one at 3 o'clock, one at 9 o'clock. This gives enough leverage to simulate the road wheel and enables you to feel if there is any movement in the bearing over and above that which it should have.
Sort lengths of steel would be better but as a first attempt, it has proved to be a qualified success.

Reg
SS100

Reg I have tried a number of methods to do this but in the end an old guy told me to tighten them up until you get a slight bit of resistance and then slaken off by 1 flat of the nut and all will be well. So far that has worked.

Neil,

Very much the principal I have always used but then I'm an "old guy".

Reg

I have recently seen a front bearing kit made my SNG which uses spacers to accurately set the front wheel bearing end float before the wheel hub nut is torqued up to a set value. The claimed benefits are less end float, reduced brake pad knock back and improved bearing life. Has anyone used this system and what do you think.