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Can anyone tell me how to get my radius off passenger side?
Following the manual, but i have to say i am reluctant to remove the bolt and drop one of the shockers out of the way.
Also Is the nut attatching the radius arm to the suspension wishbone a special type? or am i imaging things.
I cant seem to get this bugger to shift and now have several bruised knuckles and many cuts

Also have removed top hat with a lot of struggling from radius bearing/grommet and took off all bad metal.
when re attatching it to the new plate and car does it matter what way round it goes? I gues not but?

P.s. still having my fuel ing problem any suggestions, thinking of looking at filter in the small petrol tank in boot.
but worried it may be a sod of a job to do, plus quite a bit of petrol in tank.
p.s.s if anyone can help and give me a bell i will ring you back asap so it doesnt cost you anything, my numbers are 07984049981 or 01772 491699
ta

Re the petrol surge tank, a clogged filter usually announces itself with a noisy fuel pump. If you want to clean/replace it just squeeze off the two hoses with G cramps or something similar and you will only have the pint or so of fuel in the small surge tank to deal with. Obviously still a fire risk, but better then 20 gallons! If you PM me your address I can send a copy of the original article published in 'XJS Bulletin' magazine (Same goes for anyone else reading this). I don't think I ought to openly publish it here as I don't want to embarrass the JEC with any copyright issues.

Re radius arm, the bolt on the small bush has one of its faces ground back to allow the damper support bolt to pass, also it has a tab washer to secure it. Its a tight fit! and the damper bolt does need to be taken out, but this is a good thing as it allows the assembly to hang lower and give you more access room.

Re the top hat, I wouldn't like to speculate other then follow the book as I haven't had that problem to cope with myself.
Pop

Thanks for the reply Pop.
I have ground and cut out all the offending metal and made some cardboard templates.
So i will be fabricating them this weekend hopefully out of some more heave duty metal plate, compared with the original.

My main problem at the weekend was trying to get that weird shaped bolt out
of the suspension to release the radius arm.
I suppose the sell a special tool for the job?
I could not get it to budge with anything i had, does anyone no which way it turns to release?
I would assume it would turn towards rear bumper to slacken off/release.

Also wondering weather to replace radius arm bush whilst off.
Can you get poly prop one instead of rubber, like other bush upgrades?

Re radius arms I am just in process of removing mine for MOT.The passenger side came off pretty well but the bolt you refer to as Pop said has its head ground down and the spanner size is 3/4" AF.This bolt has to be completely removed and the only way is to release the shocker mounting just behind,mine is sportspack suspension and I dont know whether this is same for you.Getting the large bush off the cup at the front end was a joy!!!!!! Plenty of 41mm construction strut/numerous levers etc etc but we did it.The 3/4" special bolt on drivers side however is something else,Ive had to cut the arm off and at present contemplating getting the oxy/acet torch fired up! I think I will have a cup of tea first and try to clear my mind somewhat.
I did get replacement bolts from the JDHT for this job,the old ones had done their job but were useless.The 3/4" bolt is listed as a special bolt,quite special in fact.....£5.23 each
The radius arms I have got came with bushes in but I know you can buy them seperately,but need a tool to fit them.

Leon

I think poly bushes are available from Southern Classics, but be sitting down when you see the price, about £140 for a full set. I'd stick with the Metalastic ones, avoid the rubber after market replacements

Just a thought:

It seems to be generally accepted wisdom that you can tighten up some of the compliance in the rear suspension, by fitting the large bushes in the arms in the opposite plane to that which was originally intended. The book will tell you to fit the bush with the slots in line with the line of the arm. Turning the bush around 90 degrees will tighten the suspension by forcing the line of play against the solid element of the rubber bush. Haven't got around to trying it myself, but seems to make sense.

Good luck

Paul

Turning the bushes through 90 degrees is factory set up for the cars fitted with the sportspack I believe.
When I changed mine, I did the same