made a start

[ARDEN]

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/M ... age005.jpg

Drivers sill and rear radius arm mount are finaly finished.
one side of the car is now undersealed.

next job is to do the passenger jacking point, then i can put the carpet back in.
rub the body down and shoot some primer over it all.
mend the headlamp switch.
then its time for an mot (gulp)

[ARDEN]

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/M ... e003-6.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/M ... e002-8.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/M ... 001-11.jpg

new mirrors blended in, passenger door shaved. ;D ;D ;D

[ARDEN]

well after spending a wek working on the daimler double 6 swapping all the doors about and a week spent rebuilding the kitchen.
i finaly got to spend a day on the xjs.

both doors are now wired in with solinoids to open the doors at a touch of a button.

press a button on the plipper and a door will pop open from a distance.
with the handles removed and the holes welded up, the side of the xjs looks really smooth and it has improved the sweeping line of the side of the car.

[ARDEN]

time for a little update.
now that i have finished the kitchen and the conservatory, i managed to get a couple of hours outside today.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/M ... 000-17.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/M ... 001-13.jpg

thats both front wings primered and the same with the doors.
£1 primer from poundland is great for the first blow over to see where it needs rubbing down better.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/M ... 002-11.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/M ... e003-9.jpg

its also great for playing about with paint designs.:lol::lol::lol::lol:

got to start thinking about colours next.
black rear
british racing green front

and ideas.

[ARDEN]

well

all the welding is done.
the underside is all undersealed.
i have re built the main light switch.

all i got left to do is sort out some new tyres and i can get it down for its mot.

then we will see what else needs doing.

[JED1961]

iis it mot,d yet ? i know what youve been going through . I bought my 1981 XJ-S HE SPORT in kit form it didnt even run ,through various eng,fuel and electrical probs none of the electrics worked and various bits were missing .BUT NOW its taxed tested and running fine !! all working even the seatbelt warning light AND THE WIFES STILL TALKING TO ME (although i did have times of vision but no sound ) bliss
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y206/t ... to0058.jpg

[ARDEN]

that looks nice.

naaaaaaaaaaaa its not mot'd yet.
not had time and the weather has been against me.

won't be long now though i hope.

[poprivet]

Interesting angle on getting rid of the door handles, I assume you've checked that it conforms to the requirements of the MOT?

I know that the doors have to open from both the inside and outside, I don't know if that includes the use of a remote control.

[chrisw]

Interesting angle on getting rid of the door handles, I assume you've checked that it conforms to the requirements of the MOT?

I know that the doors have to open from both the inside and outside, I don't know if that includes the use of a remote control.


I was thinking exactly the same thing. Also, how would you open the door if the battery goes flat? Even on my new BMW, there is an emergency key access on the drivers' door just in case..

[ARDEN]

from a mot question site,

NO HANDLES

I was hoping that you may be able to help me with a problem regarding the MOT on my car. The intention was to remove the door handles on my 85' Fiat X19 and replace them with a solenoid system via remote control. What I need to know is whether the MOT tester will accept it what with having no handles!! If it's not acceptable then what would I have to do in order to get the car through the MOT? Thanks, Tony

This is a very interesting question. Here’s what the rules say: “Open and close the driver’s door and passengers’ doors. Check that each latches securely in the closed position. Check also that front doors can be opened from both inside and outside the vehicle.” And here’s the reasons that a vehicle could fail the MOT on door latches and handles. “a) A driver’s or any passenger’s door does not latch securely in the closed position. B) a driver’s or front passenger’s door cannot be opened from both inside and outside the vehicle from the relevant control in each case.” It does, however, add a caveat that a failure would not apply to: “front passenger doors if the door aperture has been permanently ‘filled’ as part of a specialised customisation provided that there are no obvious apertures or gaps”. However this latter would not apply in your case. Your situation turns then on whether or not your remote switch could be classed as a “relevant control”. That would be for the Tester to decide in any specific case. MOTT.

do have a seperate button for each door in th boot next to the battery as well as the stock inner doorcatches and the remote.

we will have to see what the mot man says.

won't be hard to fit a button in the mirrors ala tvr, if needs be.

[Brakebuster]

interesting read, and the interpretation is obviously going to be fun

as for the actual removal of the handles, dont forget they have to be declared to the insurance, as it is now a ' modification' and does have consequences....

good thread

BB

[JED1961]

the 3.6 manual has gone to a new owner but the HE still remains ,in still tidying up around the edges and rectifying the niggly jobs .The central lockings working fine now,it used to lock one door and open the other at the same time ??....odd door handles fitted ,matched pair now fitted and they both lock/open together.....off to harvest some trim bits tomorrow from a H.E which is somwhat past saving
the fight goes on

[chrisw]

Is that spraycan-based primer that you're using?

What grade paper are you using to rub it down?

After a few hints and tips as I'm about to start doing mine.. only downside is that it's kept outside, so should be fun.

[ARDEN]

mine lives outside all the time.

at the moment i am using cheap primer (£1 a tin from poundland)as it needs to be flatted back to highlight the rough areas.

i have celulose primer filler i will be spraying on prior to final prep.

1200 grade wet and dry and lots of soapy water.

then knifing putty to fill in the imperfections, prime again and rub down smooth.

hope to be finally ready to top coat soon.

[JED1961]

just a thought !! PRIMER ISNT WATER PROOF , so it can hold moisture while it appears dry on the out side .......any rust repairs underneath can soon reappear, also iff its not well dried out before the top coats applied it can lift the top coat when drying or cause blistering of the finish coat