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I'm preparing my 1965 3.8 S type for a re-spray, and I'm busy removing as much of the chrome trim as I can. I intend removing the window frames, front & rear screens and as much chrome trim as I can get off.

Can anyone advise how the chrome trim covering the gutters comes off? It looks as though it is either clipped or glued to the gutter.
Also, having removed the chrome strips either side of the bonnet, plus the one in the centre of the bonnet, can anyone advise on obtaining replacements? Once off the car, the central strip in particular, looks pretty shabby.
Assuming the chrome trim on the gutters comes off, are replacements available?
I'm removing (breaking?) all the lights, but intend to roughly re-attach the indicators and brake lights, as I have to drive the car to the painters. Has anyone any tips on a sensible way to temporarily attach the lights, to make it all legal.
Thanks in advance, Richard

A few small well placed tabs of double sided number plate tape should hold well for the drive to the paint shop. Just make sure the backs of the lights and the panel work has been well cleaned or the tape is unlikely to adhere.

Regret I can`t advise on chrome removal techniques. Someone else will no doubt be along shortly to give the info you need.

Mike K

Hi Richard, I am assuming the attachment is the same as the Mk2 in which case when I did mine then the gutter strips are just held on as a push type fit where they expand slightly to fit over the actual gutter. So to get them off you have to prise them slightly from the bottom I have found using a blunt item (screwdriver with no sharp bits and a rag, otherwise it chips the gutter paint). The worst bit is getting them back on. I have found no easy method except to tap them on using a soft bit of wood to spread the load. Even so they can distort/dent if not careful. Some replacement ones are of poor quality and will be more susceptable to damage.
All chrome parts like these are available. I got mine from a seller at Stoneleigh but SNG do them as do others.
When putting the items back I used one of the rust preventers as a sort of lubricant which helped slip them on and also should protect the back of the strips.
Best of luck, very rewarding if you get it right but annoying if you dent them!
Regards,
Paul

Thanks J44 and PPV for your replies. Why didn't I think of double sided tape!! Excellent idea. I may have stumbled across a near neighbour who has a car trailer, which would be the ideal solution.
PPV: thanks for the tip. I've looked closely, and had a tentative try, but I'm busy removing all the door cards and thus window frames at the moment. Nothing too taxing so far, only broken one stud (at the base of the window frame, but it looks as though it's partner was already broken, and replaced with a simple nut & bolt.

Anyone any idea how the aluminium "door treads" come off? I'm guessing they just clip on, much like the gutter rail trim, but I'd be grateful if someone could confirm that before I start levering away.

Thanks for the replies received so far, Richard.

Hello Richard,

from memory, they are fixed by self tappers under the door seal and hook on to the back of the sill. I.e., remove the door seal and remove the screw sthen lift up and push back to release the rear.

Alec

I will assume that the trim is as fitted to the mark 2! If so, then it is in two pieces with a joint covered by a small piece of trim mounted above the B pillar chrome trim. This B pillar trim needs to be removed first. It is held in place by four screws that hide under the rubber door seals! You will need to peel the weatherstrip away at the top and bottom of the B pillar trim to gain access. Once removed you will see the screw that holds the centre cover in place. Remove and now the drain channel trim can be extracted. Note that it is a spring fit over the drip rail but at the rear there is a tang that sneaks under the end of the drip rail and can easily be broken off. When I replaced mine, I could not get the leading edge at the windscreen edge to stay in place1 I gently squeezed it, tried sealant, but in the end opted to drill a tiny hole through the chrome trim and through the drip rail and used a tiny self tapping screw, chrome plated of course to keep it in place. Hope this helps.

Yet another two very helpful posts.
Pitman, yep I've now found those screws, and successfully removed the sill covers. I found a mystery disc, about 3 cm in diameter, under each sill plate. It seemed to be a thin piece of foam; any idea what it's for?
Alec, thanks for the information; I quickly went out to my garage and removed the central post cover, and then the gutter trim! assuming the central post cover is original, the quality of chrome in 1965 must have been pretty good. Did you replace the self tappers on yours? Are they stainless, or did they have a chromed "top" ?
I really wrestled with some of the bumper bolts, and snapped most of the bolts securing the front indicators, so I think I'll replace most bolts with stainless, unless they prove too expensive. Regarding the front indicators, mine appeared to have a mild steel nut and bolt (well three of them) securing them via clamp pieces. Is that original, or has someone else snapped off the original studs?
I'm doing the front and off-side of the car first, I'll then reverse it out, turn it around, and do the rear and near side components.
A big thank you to all who have replied on this thread, your information and knowledge has been most useful. No doubt they'll be more questions to come!

Another day, another query!
On the inside edge of the "A" pillars, there is a chrome plated trim panel, normally concealed when the front door is closed,and I can't see how to remove it. Learning from the tips from you guys, I've completely removed the rubber door seals, but can't see any hidden screws, or any other method of attaching this piece of trim. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance, Richard.

I am somewhat more than vauge on this as it has been a long time since I played with these plates. There is some recollection of two screws, top and bottom that hide beneath something... it could be the furflex door surround - but I may be mistaken. As for the screws mentioned earlier, some were seriously corroded along the shank of the screw. I bought new, some were stainless steel, others were chrome plated. The chrome plated ones I used where they show, the stainless where hidden.

I tend to agree with Alec2824 as it is a long time since I did mine but there is usually scres behind the furflex with the outer lip of the chrome piece wrapping around the edge where the door seal is or vice versa and I am a bit loath to take either the furflex or door seal off at present as they are firmly fixed in place.
A good website which has lots of pictures and info as mentioned elsewhere is http://fairislepress.com/WP/
which can be searched but is an excellent read also on what can be done and how to do it. I wish it was around when I 'refurbished' my car. It has exploded views of many items which sometimes help ( http://jagparts.krissmotors.com/plates.pdf#page=79) and this one covers the part in question.
Hope this helps.
Regards,

Just remembered another excellent webiste and there is a picture of the offending items which suggest some tabs with a couple having screw holes under the furflex I think. The link is, http://valvechatter.us/?p=4303 Hope this helps.

Thanks to Paul & Alec for their recent posts.
The interior trim of the S type is clearly very similar to the Mk2. As suggested, concealed behind the Furlex were "bentover" tabs. I un-bent the tabs (straightened doesn't seem correct!), then used a screw driver to break the glue seal, then a gentle tap with my favourite tool, and off they came.
Thank you for the sites you suggested, some excellent illustrations and pictures. How do you guys find these things?
Jumping ahead of myself a bit now, but I've been taking copious notes as I remove things, and need to start thinking about the most logical order in which to re-assemble everything. I don't suppose you've come across the official "build sequence" on your inter-net travels?
Anyway, I've nearly finished taking everything off, and on Nov 8th I'm scheduled to deliver the stripped down vehicle to the paint shop.
Once again, thank you for your informative replies. Richard

Well the S type is now at the paint shop, and I await 'phone calls to the effect "we've removed some paint, and guess what we've found"

Meanwhile, I'm trying to clean up/polish all the bits I've removed.
Can anyone tell me the Lucas numbers for the the front sidelights, and rear sidelight/brake light assembly? I know the front indicators are L690.
Once I know the Lucas numbers, I'll keep an eye on E-Bay.

I managed to dis-assemble the front indicators; they had previously been modified with mild steel nuts and bolts which were difficult to remove. In a moment of inspiration I remembered my old "Dremel" tool, and with the aid of some mini cutting discs, managed to remove all the old rusted machine screws.
I'm intending to use stainless steel equivalents when I start the re-build.

The "body" of my rear lights and front indicators are all fairly pitted, so is it possible to have them re-chromed?
Has anyone some decent examples they'd like to sell?

I'd like to have both bumpers re-chromed; has anyone any recent experience of this, and an idea of costs?

I spent this morning removing all the rusted up mild steel bolts from the front bumper. Once again, I'm intending to use stainless steel replacements; does anyone know about the equivalent strength of Stainless Steel versus mild steeel? I'm assuming S/Steel will be adequate.

Richard (taking the afternoon off to watch the Brazilian Grand prix!)

Hello Richard,

stainless fasteners are fine for non stressed applications, but can be brittle compared to high tensile mild steel so not to be used for say suspension. Ideally lubricate before assembly. (I use copper slip)

Alec

the Lucas part number is L627, which appears to be the same for left and right lamp castings! However, there is another cast identity number 54570225 for the LH, AND 54570226 for the RH. I had a local chrome plater have a go at fixing mine. He polished/ground the hell out of them and managed to salvage one - it does not look too bad from a distance. But he said it was more trouble than it was worth. The other was scrap!