A couple of weeks ago I had a puncture on the way home from work (first one in years). I had a new tyre fitted, but this created a slight shimmy in the steering at 70mph, so I took it back to the tyre shop for a balance check. Whilst attempting to remove said wheel,they sheared off the hexagonal top portion of the nut, leaving the round sleeve part attached to the stud. The wheel therefore cannot be removed; I'm therefore arranging for it to be fixed and will bill the tyre shop. I "Googled" this problem and it's not unknown on modern Jags, so beware having your nuts done up too tight.
A local engineering company reckon they can remove it by drilling out the stud, so I rang my local Jag dealer to order a new stud: you can only buy the whole hub complete with bearings (£160). I've since booked the car in to an independent Jag dealer in Swindon and I'll let you know how it goes....
Kev Noble
Wheel Nuts
Moderator:cawthrm
First Jag was an LPG X308 XJ8; now have an XF 3.0D. I enjoy doing my own maintenance.
Re: Wheel Nuts
A very long known problem.
You need to hammer on an 18mm socket onto the bad wheel nut having chieseled off the chrome cap. Underneith is an 18mm nut. Then gently tease the nut off.
Yes, it can be a real pain. Once off, the issue is relatively simple. Buy a couple of new nuts off ebay for a tenner.
The problem with the chomed cap nuts is when a tyre monkey uses a windy hammer gun....NEVER EVER ALLOW THIS! If thew chrome cap is flattened buy this gorilla action, take a sharp 1/4" cold chiesel and bash off the chrome case. Then use an 18mm socket on the bared nut...off it will come! That done, bin the nut and replace with a new one...as said get a few spares for a fiver a piece off ebay. Google Jaguar XF wheel nuts.
Locker nuts though can be misery. The issue is usually the remover tool which is thin walled and can crack then break if the nerd removing the wheels uses a hammer gun...breaker bar ONLY! Firstly check the condition of the remover tool. Obtain the number or letter off the tool. Ebay again to source a replacement tool. Cost isn`t much if your tool has broken or has splits in it. Get a new tool if yours has defects. Otherwise just buy four new normal nuts and forget the locking units. No one bothers to nick wheels anymore.
An indepenent operator will have loads of old worn out hub units in the scap bin. He will be able to get an old stud off an old unit and replace any damaged studs on your car at minimal cost.
Worry not. We have all been there and the problem is not really a problem if approached in the right way.
Let us know how you get on. Any advice needed, we have the guys in the know and with the relivent experience. We have all have this irksome problem at some time.
Finally, best advice is to slacken and retighten wheel nuts at least once a year. Do the lot and make sure you don`t get caught out in a blizzard at 3am on the top of the Yorkshire Dales!!!!!! It can be dark, wet and lonely....and you won`t have the necessary tools!
Mike K
You need to hammer on an 18mm socket onto the bad wheel nut having chieseled off the chrome cap. Underneith is an 18mm nut. Then gently tease the nut off.
Yes, it can be a real pain. Once off, the issue is relatively simple. Buy a couple of new nuts off ebay for a tenner.
The problem with the chomed cap nuts is when a tyre monkey uses a windy hammer gun....NEVER EVER ALLOW THIS! If thew chrome cap is flattened buy this gorilla action, take a sharp 1/4" cold chiesel and bash off the chrome case. Then use an 18mm socket on the bared nut...off it will come! That done, bin the nut and replace with a new one...as said get a few spares for a fiver a piece off ebay. Google Jaguar XF wheel nuts.
Locker nuts though can be misery. The issue is usually the remover tool which is thin walled and can crack then break if the nerd removing the wheels uses a hammer gun...breaker bar ONLY! Firstly check the condition of the remover tool. Obtain the number or letter off the tool. Ebay again to source a replacement tool. Cost isn`t much if your tool has broken or has splits in it. Get a new tool if yours has defects. Otherwise just buy four new normal nuts and forget the locking units. No one bothers to nick wheels anymore.
An indepenent operator will have loads of old worn out hub units in the scap bin. He will be able to get an old stud off an old unit and replace any damaged studs on your car at minimal cost.
Worry not. We have all been there and the problem is not really a problem if approached in the right way.
Let us know how you get on. Any advice needed, we have the guys in the know and with the relivent experience. We have all have this irksome problem at some time.
Finally, best advice is to slacken and retighten wheel nuts at least once a year. Do the lot and make sure you don`t get caught out in a blizzard at 3am on the top of the Yorkshire Dales!!!!!! It can be dark, wet and lonely....and you won`t have the necessary tools!
Mike K
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: Wheel Nuts
Hi Mike, Thanks for that. The tyre shop had actually already removed the chrome cap and used a breaker bar on the exposed 18mm nut head, but it was done up so tight it sheared the top hexagonal part off, leaving just the cylindrical sleeve behind! Thankfully, Mike Allen Services/Wiltshire Jaguar in Swindon (advertised in the JEC magazine) came to the rescue: a very helpful and "can-do" master technician called Simon carefully drilled around the sleeve part of the nut so he could remove the top then get an extractor to bite on the top of what was left and remove the remains of the nut (this took 2hours). Inevitably there was some damage to the wheel itself in this process, but I was going to get the wheels refurbished anyway, so now it has just brought that forward.
Back at the tyre shop, they were very sheepish and agreed to knock off the cost of the 2hours labour from my next tyre purchase; they are not a bad bunch, but inevitably use air hammer guns like they all do and over-tightened that nut.
From my admittedly limited dealings with Wiltshire Jaguar (an independent), they are very reasonably priced and extremely helpful and I would definitely recommend them; they are fully equipped and can do all the usual big jobs including cam-belt change (0nly £350 from memory?) and gearbox oil and sump/filter change. As an aside, they told me that the local official Jaguar dealer are objecting to their name of "Wiltshire Jaguar" and so they are about to change name.
My XF is now up to 156,000 miles and going really well. The next niggle I have to tackle is the internal light intermittently flickering on and off: according to Google, this is quite common and is due to dirty contacts in the light unit and is relatively easy to fix.
Kev Noble
Back at the tyre shop, they were very sheepish and agreed to knock off the cost of the 2hours labour from my next tyre purchase; they are not a bad bunch, but inevitably use air hammer guns like they all do and over-tightened that nut.
From my admittedly limited dealings with Wiltshire Jaguar (an independent), they are very reasonably priced and extremely helpful and I would definitely recommend them; they are fully equipped and can do all the usual big jobs including cam-belt change (0nly £350 from memory?) and gearbox oil and sump/filter change. As an aside, they told me that the local official Jaguar dealer are objecting to their name of "Wiltshire Jaguar" and so they are about to change name.
My XF is now up to 156,000 miles and going really well. The next niggle I have to tackle is the internal light intermittently flickering on and off: according to Google, this is quite common and is due to dirty contacts in the light unit and is relatively easy to fix.
Kev Noble
First Jag was an LPG X308 XJ8; now have an XF 3.0D. I enjoy doing my own maintenance.
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