Driveshaft UJ replacement

[xjray]

Loctite or Copaslip?

After a run of 25 miles or so, I get a crackling sound from the offside rear when pulling away from stationary, particularly when turning right. It sounds like a failing CV joint (which I have experience of) so I’m guessing it’s coming from one of the universal joints on the offside driveshaft. Assuming I can get the hub off with the cheap puller I have, I’m planning to replace the UJs myself.

The manual says to apply Loctite to the hub splines on reassembly but I’ve also read recommendations of applying Copaslip instead.
Can more experienced members advise on the use of one or the other, or indeed have any general advice on the job itself.

Many thanks
Ray

[davidr]

Hi - I always use copper grease. When the splines are loctited in they are an absolute b****r to get off again and I'm not sure it does much good

[xjray]

Thanks for that.

Must admit I was surprised to read about using Loctite. Makes sense on nuts and bolts but seems odd on splines.

I’m just hoping I can break the bond with the hub if it has been used!

[xjray]

After waiting for out of stock parts, tools, weather, etc, I finally started this job today.

I’m having to do it in the road as I don’t have access to a garage at the moment so it’s all a bit awkward. However, I’ve managed to get the hub off, undo the nuts at the brake disc end and release the shaft. Now, according to the manual, I just need to release the forward shock absorber from the lower mounting and ‘swing it out of the way’ to be able to get the shaft with its cowls attached out.

I released the shock mounting and levered it off the shaft but there seems no way to ‘swing’ it! It won’t swivel inwards towards the diff as the spring hits the mounting cross member and it won’t swing outwards as it won’t clear the radius arm. I thought I would try releasing the rear shock and see if I could lever that out wide enough to get the shaft through but, of course, the mounting shaft just turns when trying to undo the nut (and I’d need to release the bracket attached to the hub carrier). I don’t want to try holding the shaft with mole grips or similar and I don’t have spare nuts of the right size to try locking them together. I did ponder releasing the shock from the top mounting and taking it out but, with the facilities (lack of) at my disposal this looks a job too far.

Can anyone help with a solution? Perhaps I’m missing something?

Thanks

Ray

[davidr]

Hi Ray - if I've understood correctly you've already removed the lower mounting bolts for the spring/shock assemblies. If they are in the way then why not removed them altogether? They are only held at the top by one bolt each.

[xjray]

Hi David,

I did have a quick look at the top mounting, but from my limited viewpoint it looked a bit inaccessible inside the cross member and possibly difficult to extract, and refit, the bolt. It started to rain on me at that point so I didn’t spend much time looking. I’ll have a better look tomorrow, weather permitting.

Though I’m still intrigued as to how the shock is supposed to ‘swing’ out of the way!

Thanks for the suggestion.

[PPV]

Hi, just to clarify, loctite is used when there is play but no need for the joint to slide, it fills the gap if you use the right one. It has been used on splined hubs in some cases. If the joint needs to slided then copaslip or similar is good but there should be no real play/sloppiness.
I have no knoeledge though of the joint in question so excuse me butting in!
Regards,

[xjray]

Hi Paul, no problem with you joining the conversation. As a fairly new classic Jaguar owner I am happy to hear from anyone with information, ideas or opinions.

Re the Loctite, I can understand its use in this situation but it does seem to cause a lot of problems when the hub needs to be removed. I have read of owners having to take out the whole drive assembly and use a 20 ton industrial press to get it off. Fortunately this wasn’t the case for me, the hub slid of quite easily with a cheap puller.

David, I took your advice and took out the shock/spring assembly. This did present more difficulty than I was expecting with not being able to see the nut and finding that I couldn’t get a spanner or socket on it due to the attached spring and bracket that stops the handbrake cable sagging, which was an annoying discovery. I also found that the nut is a different size to bolt head after crawling under with the same size spanner/socket (the bolt head is 5/8 the nut 11/16). After continually dodging the rain for the last couple of days, I have now got the driveshaft off and the UJs out.

Surprisingly (disappointingly) I haven’t found any sign of damage in any of the bearings that I thought was likely to be the cause of the clacking sound I have been hearing on pulling away so it may all have been in vain!

Looking forward to getting it finished and back on when the rain stops for long enough.

Ray

[xjray]

Just to finish off this thread for anyone interested.

I eventually got this job finished once the rain had passed and other obligations were out of the way.

As previously mentioned, I couldn’t see any problems with the original UJ bearings. All had grease in them, all the needle rollers were present and appeared to be in good order and the cups turned smoothly by hand. Most frustrating.

However, since reinstalling the drive shaft and having now done several long runs on the new UJs, I am pleased to report that the clacking/crackling sound I was getting has ceased.

I guess there must have been a problem somewhere in the original UJs but I certainly couldn’t see anything obvious.

Ray

[mike020150]

Greasing the UJs is awkward in situ and is often neglected. Perhaps, if you greased them off the car, you managed to lubricate a dry UJ bearing or, probably more likely, you refitted the UJ shield in a better position so that now, it doesn't catch when the shaft turns. Whatever the answer, now at least you can enjoy driving the car! Mike.

[xjray]

Yes, greasing those UJs in situ is a b***er, especially without a ramp.

I did have the old UJs greased by my garage (along with everything else in that area) while some other work was being done. It did seem to reduce the clacking but didn’t cure it. The mechanic did comment that none of it looked as though it had been done for some time.

Once the old ones were out I was expecting to see some damage so was disappointed to see that they all looked good and thought perhaps the noise was coming from elsewhere after all. The shield was tightly held with the hose clip and pop rivets in place and didn’t seem to have been rubbing or catching anywhere so I have to assume the bearings had a fault somewhere.

As you say Mike, whatever the cause, I can enjoy driving the car without the worry that something is going to give way, at least not on that driveshaft anyway!

Ray