DDM pairing with car

[Thixendale]

I am having a replacement drivers door module fitted soon by the mechanic I always use - an independent but not a Jag specialist and as such he doesn't have the Jaguar SSD(?) software. Now I understand that these units have to be paired with the car and I therefore think that he will not be able to do this bit. I have read that others have successfully paired this module using Mongoose. I have the iCarsoft 930 - will this unit be able to pair the module to the car and if so how easy is it to do. Or doe I need to find an Indy specialist with SSD to do it?

Many thanks
Tony

[Andy P]

Hi Tony,
The iCarsoft 930 will not be able to pair your door module for you I'm affraid .
The Mongoose is a cable required to connect the car to the dedicated platform (ie Laptop/Tablet) which has all the software installed on it.
So it will have to be an Independent Jag Specialist or Dealer.
I've often thought about getting the whole kit to use myself but your talking about £300 to £500 for a used one and they are quite complicated to use so I believe and how often would I use it.
Then there's the risk of messing something up within the car and having to call someone out to put it right .
So I think I'll leave that thought alone for the time being.
Good luck with your DDM pairing anyway.
Let us know how you get on if you can.
Take care.
Andy

[Thixendale]

Here's the latest.
First a bit of background:
I bought the car just over a year ago and was told that the central locking didn't work with the key fobs.
Fair enough - thought I - replace batteries and see what happens.
Well - batteries were duly replaced and ... nothing.
Further research ensued and I thought I needed to pair the fobs with the car after replacing the batteries - so I did the headlight flashing thingy and ... still nothing.
When I say nothing this wasn't strictly true. One of the fobs would lock the car - if it was very close to the car, in a certain place, and the moon was in the ascending and I closed my eyes three times and clicked my heels, ... you get the idea.
Anyways - back on the forums and more research.
Hey presto - the car needs a new DDM. So one was sourced and fitted to the car. We are now roundabout where I started off this thread.
My mechanic bought the SDD software (he works on a lot of Land Rovers so it wasn't just for my benefit) but he could not seem to sort out the module.
When the module was fitted the car would:
lock with the fob and would unlock with the fob if done immediately after locking.
it would lock with the fob but would not unlock with the fob when left locked. (Would double lock and fold in mirrors when lock button on fob pressed twice).
To unlock the car you had to use the key in the door lock, however this would trigger the alarm which would stop when you put the key in the ignition. You could then take the key out and press the unlock button on the fob and the rest of the car would unlock.

I took the car to the main dealer today to get the DDM paired with the car.
This was done (charged half hour labour with free car wash) but it hasn't made any difference.

In addition to the central locking issue, the car does not remember any seat and mirror settings I attempt to programme. The car always reverts to what I assume is the last programmed setting the DDM was set to in the car itwas taken out of.

I am now in a position where I do not know what to do.

Any suggestions anybody???

[PaulGover]

The erratic nature of your problems suggest to me hardware rather than software. As you've replaced the DDM, I'd suggest that brings it down to either the fobs or the wiring. If you've not replaced the fobs, it might be worth trying to pair with a different set, assuming you know someone who'd like to steal your car . Otherwise, it might require a painstaking check with a multimeter and wiring diagram and probably Mk 1 eyeballs to check for damage where wires pass through holes. I suspect the wires, as the failure to unlock after a time, and the location-specific nature of success implies a weak signal input to the DDM. It could be a bad connector, but replacing the DDM should have sorted that.

If you can get in touch with the previous owner, it would be worth asking when the problem first occurred, and if anything else happened around there, such as new components.

All that is based on theory; I've zero experience with this side of the car's electronics.

Edit: Looking at my 2008 manual's wiring diagrams (which may or may not be relevant to your case), the DDM has two power supplies: a permanent connection to the battery through fuse 42 in the "Passenger Junction Fuse Box" in the RH "A" post, and another supply via the ignition switch. If the former was missing, high resistance or erratic, that would explain the DDM not working after a period. The cable from that fuse splits into 4 separate wires to different components (which I've not traced through the diagram), and your problems with seat memory etc. suggest it might be a problem somewhere in those cables.

[Thixendale]

Thank you very much.
My car is going to my mechanic on Friday for him to investigate further.
I will pass this information on.

Will keep you posted and thanks for taking the time Andy.

All the best and keep safe.
Tony

[Thixendale]

I really must wear my glasses when I come on here and be careful with scrolling and reading the correct names.
My apologies Paul.
Thank you very much for the advice on the wiring - it is greatly appreciated.

[Thixendale]

Further to my last post - further investigative work was delayed due to a certain Rattus norvegicus getting hungry and deciding to have a meal of the wires under my bonnet. This is in spite of me putting some nice tasty wheat food out for them with a side helping of bromadiolone.

Back to the DDM.

The pins on the DDM have been checked and all seem to be OK - however - pin DD11-6 (Jag wiring for XJ, Figure 12.1 for central locking) is not showing any reading. I assume as this is marked as an output it should be live?
(I tried to attach the appropriate page but it would not allow me to attach a pdf document)

Is this showing an issue with this DDM (which is in itself a replacement) or is this result as expected?

The thinking is that when I unlock the car with the key and put the key in the ignition, something is triggering the system to become "live" and therefore pick up the signal from the fob to unlock the rest of the car and that this pin should be live from the battery to power the "Remote keyless entry module".

Does anybody know what the "Remote keyless entry module" do? Where is it? Could this be at fault?

Thanks for any help / further suggestions.

Cheers
Tony

[PaulGover]

In my 2008 wiring diagrams, pin DD11-6 is described (see previous page to the wiring diagram) as
"REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY MODULE POWER SUPPLY: B+"
with "NOTES: Check market specification for fitment of Remote Keyless Entry."
so if applicable and active, it should be battery voltage. However, I read that on the S type it's only relevant to the Japanese marker. Dunno if that's relevant or not for an XJ.

I'm not even too sure what "Remote Keyless Entry means" - it may mean one of those transmitters that you leave in your pocket and it unlocks the door by proximity, rather than pushing a button.

[Thixendale]

HOORAAYY!!!

An update on my locking issues. This has taken a while to resolve due to it being a low priority - just annoying.

BUT I can now lock and unlock the car with the key fobs AND the memory seat function works.

There was an issue with the DDM, but it turned out that there was also an issue with the REM (Rear Electronic Module) which is also in the same circuit as the DDM for central locking and this prevented the DDM from being programmed as it should.

A reflash of this module and you have an uncle called Robert.

I'ts surprising how a little thing can make such a big drifference in the enjoyment of the car.

Next thing to sort out is a P0327 error code which keeps popping up but thats a different section.

Thank you to all who took the time and provided advice.

Tony

[ptjs1]

Well done Tony!

Just as an aside, the knock sensors really don't like moisture anywhere in the wiring or wiring connections. A P0327 is often the result of moisture ingress.

Good luck

Paul

[Thixendale]

Thanks Paul, I'll have a careful look but I haven't noticed any coolant loss.

I propose to get the Bank 1 sensor replaced and we can have a better look during that job.

Cheers

[ptjs1]

Just to clarify, I didn't mean coolant loss. I meant any moisture around the sensors and wiring- rain etc

Good luck

Paul

[Thixendale]

Thank you and noted. I will pass on to my mechanic.
Cheers
Tony