Replacing Wheel Nut

[cybercontroller]

Just a quick query and I may be being overcautious but I am replacing a missing wheel nut and I thought I should be able to put it on by hand initially before then finishing by torquing to the correct value which I believe is 125 Nm.
However, I can only start the nut off which maybe half a turn and then would need to use the spanner to get leverage to continue to turn the nut. The replacements from SNG and I confirmed with them it is the correct item for the chassis number when I bought it. All the threads look find and I tried another nut from another source just to see if there was any difference, but the same.
As I say, I may be just overcautious but I don't want to start damaging the thread, Should I used the 19mm socket and use that to tighten or is there something else I need to consider?

[ptjs1]

cybercontroller,

In my experience, the wheel nuts and studs can get slight thread damage just from normal use. Despite your check, if all your wheel nuts are binding on that particular stud, I suspect there is very slight damage on the thread OR (perhaps more likely) there is a slight misalignment of the wheel stud in the wheel hole, preventing the nut from pulling cleanly onto the stud thread.

Try removing the wheel completely and then testing that stud carefully with the new, and the other wheel nuts. That will enable you to better assess if there really is thread damage. If all the existing nuts do still bind on that stud, I would try and clean the threads with a suitable die.

Good luck

Paul

[PaulGover]

Overspray on repainted wheels can reduce the diameter of the holes so the integral washer on the wheel nuts can bind. I have this on my pepperpot wheels; it makes the nuts feel quite stiff and difficult to remove. As Paul said, try them without the wheel.

If it is paint causing binding, IMHO it's better to leave it alone rather than damage the paint layer with say sandpaper or a file.

[cybercontroller]

Thanks for the thoughts.
Looks like I will have to remove one of the other nuts to test.

[cybercontroller]

Couldn't shift the other nuts, so on that basis use the socket set to try with the new nut and have got it on some of the way. They are really tight, but I suppose they have to be to perform the required function.
Going to try and carry on later

[ptjs1]

Have you tried as suggested taking the wheel off and just trying the nuts on the studs?

On one of my XJSs, i had a similar problem with 2 nuts being really tight. When I took off the wheel and tried the nuts on the studs alone, things were much easier, but now the nut threads had become damaged and had to be be recut with a tap. It was the alignment of the wheel causing the problem and some slightly thick lacquer coating on the wheel stud recesses. It only takes a fraction misalignment for one or more of the nuts to become difficult to do up.

Start with the wheel off, check all nuts do up interchangeably easily on all studs. If not check and dress any damaged threads. Then put wheel on and start with all nuts just on a few threads, then start to gradually tighten all of them to ensure the wheel is pulled on centrally to all studs. If you then get a tightening problem, its either a recess problem or a stud alignment distortion.

Good luck

Paul

[cybercontroller]

I was going to try that, but was not able to undo any of the other nuts.

[ptjs1]

I really would get that wheel off asap. And also all the other wheels. You don't want to find out for the first time that a wheel is seized is when you get a puncture on the motorway!

Good luck

Paul

[cybercontroller]

So took to Kwik Fit on Saturday and they took the wheel off.

Good spot Paul, there was a slight bit of thread damage and some misalignment so the fifth nut would not go on. So he managed to clean up the thread and the wheel is now back on and fine. Not worried about the other as they are all new tyres.