Confused over part number

[jeremy156]

Looking for replacement wheel bearing assembly for my X350 VIN ending G31406

On the Jag site, earlier and later VIN shows C2C22824 being suitable:

... yet G03109 - G34069 shows I need C2C19585, however that's a discontinued part. However, when clicking into C2C19585 it shows:

... which says C2C22824 supercedes C2C19585

I'm confused. Is there something about G03109 - G34069 which is different... or could this simply be an error? Can I use C2C22824?

Any assistance appreciated,
Jeremy

[ptjs1]

Jeremy,

My reading of that is that JCP have just missed off the supersession information for the middle range.

It seems that all the previous part numbers including C2C22824 have ultimately been superseded to C2D38988. So, that's what I would fit.

Alternatively just drop an email or give Glen Parkes a call at JCP and explain the issue.

Good luck

Paul

[J44EAG]

Guys,

XF, S-type and X350/356/358 all share one and the same front wheel bearing cartridges, what ever the year of vehicle manufacture.

Numerous different part numbers have been applied over the years but all are one and the same unit. Its as simple as that. I`ve been bashing these bearings out and into all models over the years and I`ve never had any converse parts issues.

Removal of old bearings requires a bench press capable of pushing at least five tons. Don`t expect to do this job with split wedges, cold chisels, old screw drivers etc. All you will do is damage or even wreck the vertical suspension leg. Note that the leg needs to come off the car to do this work. The top ball joint must be split and also the huge lower ball joint. This requires a large commercial ball joint splitter and great care to avoid damaging the ball joint gaiter. The alternative fitting method is to leave the lower ball joint intact and remove the inner control bush bolt. This is not easy if the old type bolts have not previously been disturbed. A revised bolt kit is available which is much more robust. It is essential to mark relative cam bolt position with Tippex before dismantling....otherwise you will have to have camber angles re-set after you have disturbed that prime inner bolt. Not the steering rack also has to be moved aft to enable that prime bolt to be extracted. If in doubt of your abilities and appropriateness of your tool kit, get a professional on the case. Front wheel bearing changing needs heavy industrial tools, a high level of experienced skill and a load of blood, sweat and tears.

Go to my suspension posts on S-type and X350 sections where you will see my images of wheel bearing changes.

Mike K

[jeremy156]

Alternatively just drop an email or give Glen Parkes a call at JCP and explain the issue.

Many thanks Paul, I've written to JCP and they have confirmed it is suitable.

[jeremy156]

Removal of old bearings requires a bench press capable of pushing at least five tons.

Mike, I'm confused now... when I've been reading around I've seen that the part available appears to be a complete hub assembly, not just a bearing.

JAGUAR-X350-FRONT-WHEEL-BEARING-ASSEMBLY-C2C22824-300x225.jpg (17.7KiB)Viewed 2401 times

Forum posts suggest it's a beast to get separated from the upright leg, requiring effort/tricks to separate the iron from the aluminium ... but are you saying the front wheel hub itself must be dismantled...?

Jeremy

[J44EAG]

The above image is indeed the correct unit.....what ever superseded part number may have been applied to it. It contains the hub flange and studs, two large ball bearing races, the stub axle and the ABS reluctor unit complete with sensor plug. It is a sealed unit and is non maintainable by an end user. Prices have tumbled in recent years down to as little as about £37 for a non OE spec unit. OE grade is obviously desirable as you will want a long life and not have to do this job too often! Expect to pay more for a genuine OE part.

Yes, this job can be very difficult without a bench press and suitable sized push mandrels. A professional set of purpose built mandrels is highly desirable. Corrosion "welds" the old steel cartridge to the ali vertical leg with time, salts and wet causing a hard interfacial deposit which is difficult to break without the correct equipment. The vertical leg needs to come off the car in the ways I`ve previously described. Only then with some FIVE TONS of hydraulic pressure applied, will you stand any chance of breaking that corrosive bond! Unless you have a hydraulic press, best to leave this job alone!! A degree of industrial brutality is required.....

Come back to me if you need further advice.

Mike

[jeremy156]

Mike, wondering whether you have seen this approach?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8Vamjqy7_Q

... guessing you would you advise against it, but curious why... it looks fairly quick compared to dismantling as you describe, but life has taught me to look for the catch

Thanks,
Jeremy

[J44EAG]

The extracted bearing cartridge in the video has obviously been well flooded with WD or similar product. I`d not seen that particular method I must admit and if I were to try it, I would be using four nuts and bolts to spread the load. It would be all too easy to damage the relatively soft ali leg using just a two bolt method. I noted only a very small amount of corrosion between the two parts on this video example. Usually, it is much, much worse!

All cases are different. I`ve seen one un-bolted bearing cartridge just drop out onto the floor after just being given a good clout with a block hammer. All the ones I`ve tackled have not succumbed to that treatment and needed transferring to a bench press for the five ton loading. Shame!

Obviously the method shown is not "approved" as such. I certainly couldn`t endorse it but its obviously up to you if you want to give it a go. I`d stay stop immediately if you think loads being applied to just a couple of points are getting excessive. Go easy if you do what is shown in the video and think constantly about safety and loading aspects. Flying metal is airborne shrapnel. When these cartridges finally start to move, they can go with a hell of a bang.

Mike

[jeremy156]

Hi Mike,

Happy to report that the leverage method worked - angle grinder to cut enough off the wheel studs to knock them through, gradual application of force at 3 points around the hub, it came out within a minute. Took me far longer to loosen the bolts in the first place.

Anyway, thought I should follow up and let you know it had worked - and thank you for your cautions.

Best,
Jeremy

[J44EAG]

I`m glad that worked well. Certainly that method was a new one on me.

There we are...more appliance of science. Nice one and thanks for updating us.

Could you possibly please write something about this for the magazine? If images are available of your removal rig, that would be doubly good. Please ask if you need any advice on article production. Word 97-2003 (.doc) is the preferred document type without any images being embedded in the text. Images should be attached to any mail as separate items with a description. Please send to either Nigel or I as an initial draft. If you need any advice on all that, please mail me at the address on the magazine page header.

All the best.

Mike

[jeremy156]

Hello Mike,

I'm no writer and couldn't come up with a magazine article, sorry. Also I didn't take any photos other than the "done it" picture I posted.

The method was exactly per that youtube video, with the exception that I had to cut the lug bolts off and bash the remainder through, as there isn't room to get the whole lug out from behind.

Best,
Jeremy

[J44EAG]

OK, Jeremy. Understood. Always worth asking.

A general ask then to any one is about to tackle this "new to us" method.....If anyone is considering replacing wheel bearings, perhaps they might try the method in the Youtube link and take images during the job. If any one can achieve that, I`ll be happy to write up the method and detail it for Nigels` use in the magazine.

Many thanks for bringing this different idea to us. It is quite curious that this method has never been used by any of us to date previously. It takes time to open up across the World!

Nice one, Jeremy. Many thanks.

Mike.