Multiple errors

[Thixendale]

Hi Everyone,
I hope I can get to the bottom of this with your help - but where to start.
Car is a 2005 XJ Sovereign LWB 4.2 NA V8.

At the beginning of the year I was going to see family, but I hadn't started the car for a while, but it did startwhich surprised me so I reversed out of the garage then stopped the engine while I loaded to boot. Started again and and set off. Proposed journey was over 100 miles so thought that this would charge the battery. Everything was fine for the first ten miles and then I got the MIL light and a gearbox fault warning abnd ABS and DSC warnings and reduced performance.So I turned round and went home put the car back in the garage, transferred all luggage to a different vehicle connected car to my CTEK MXS 5 and left it.

On return I managed to clear all the error messages, although some took several attempts. Have started the car a few times since - all with no errors - but didn't go anywhere.

Today - wasgoing to give the car a run outso disconnected the CTEK and set off. Error messages appeared again within 400 yards as follows:
ABS FAULT
CRUISE NOT AVAILABLE
GEARBOX FAULT

Battery is a Bosch S4 013, 800AEN, 95Ah 12V
reasonably new and fully charged according to the CTEK
My iCarSoft OBDII reader showed the voltage at 13.83-14.05 when engine running

I had the following codes when working through all the modules:
PCM - Powertrain Control Module
U0402 - Invalid data received from transmission control module
C0037 - Rear left wheel speed sensor
P0701 - Transmission control systemrange/performance./Combination of impossible substitute functions
P0500 - Vehicle speed sensor circuit malfunction
P0721 - Output shaft speed sensor circuit range/performance./Output speed sensor performance

ABS Control Module
C0051 - Steering wheel position sensor
C0037 - Rear left wheel speed sensor

All other modules were clear of faults but in manual mode of the reader I also found a:
P0720 - Output speed sensor circuit malfunction
P0730 - Incorrect gear ratio

Those are all the messages from the dash and codes from my OBDII reader.

As it stands I have cleared all those codes now so there are no messages nor any codes being thrownbut if I drive anywhere I am sure they will return.

Any pointers on where to start?

Many thanks,

Tony

[david-c432]

Hi Tony
I don't profess to be a techie but my immediate thought was an issue with your battery even though the readings seem to be OK. I had a similar problem, although not as severe, but since replacing the battery, touch wood, all has been fine.
There's also a post which sounds similar to your issue at viewtopic.php?f=283&t=16639&sid=1342c2f ... eca#p90187
Hope someone else comes to the rescue because, as I say, I tend to leave these things to my local Jaguar specialist who knows a lot more than me!

David

[david-c432]

The post was Jun 18 2022 in case the link doesn't work.

[JimMann]

Because a battery will start the car and the CTEK indicates a full charge does not necessarily confirm a good battery. You state that the battery is "reasonably new", but how old is it actually? As the earlier post infers, all of these "spurious" codes would point most folks on these pages to a defective battery. Do you have access to another suitable battery to attempt a test of the vehicle, or if your battery is over 5 years old, I woudl suggest a change of battery is on the cards.

Jim M

[andypryce]

Assuming battery is checked, the ABS sensor on the rear wheel would cause the ABS fault and cruise not available. Relatively easy to change them.

[Thixendale]

Many thanks for your responses David, Jim and Andy.

The battery was my primary suspect but thanks for confirming my suspicion.

I will get a new battery first to see if that cures the issue then an ABS sensor for the rear wheel.

Could some one tell me the current (no pun intended) battery spec is that I need please or would that be better as a new question?

Thank you

I'll keep you posted

Tony

[ptjs1]

Tony,

Can i just suggest that you get a drop test done on your battery first before purchasing a new one.

Halfords or other places will often do a droptest free for you. If they confirm that it seems ok, then clear the codes, disconnect the battery and fully charge it before reconnecting. Scan again for any error codes and clear as necessary.

Cheers

Paul

[PaulGover]

I think Andy's right, and this is one of the rear ABS speed sensors failing. When they die, (and they do), the ECU sees one wheel not turning, the other doing say 30 mph. So it reckons the car is doing 15 mph and turning hard left or right! But the engine's doing the rpm for 30 mph, so the gearbox must be trash, and the steering wheel is pointing straight ahead and the yaw sensor says the car isn't turning, so both those sensors are also broken. Which is, of course, lunacy, but that's computer programming for you.

Replacing the sensor is dead easy, jack up the wheel, remove the wiring connector and retaining screw. There might be a cable clip to fiddle with, I forget. Replacement parts from the usual suspects, or cheap from motor factors (it's a standard part for many cars).

It's probably the LHS one that's gone, according to the C0037 code.

[Thixendale]

Thank you Paul and Paul,

I have ordered a Topdon battery tester to do it myself as I live in the middle of nowhere. Will also be handy for my other cars and I mean to get another Jaguar at some point too.

I'll also get a sensor as what you say Paul makes sense with the errors I am getting.

Hope it's fine this weekend.

Cheers

Tony

[Alan C]

For sure this will be a battery-related issue. Replace it with a new high-power good quality battery.

[andypryce]

In terms of which battery, generally the more you pay the better it will last, I dont think you will have stop/start on your car which means it will be a bit cheaper, agree go for a good quality branded battery. Unsure if you need to 'tell' the car a new one is fitted for a 2005 car, the later ones you do as it alters the charging rate.

[JimMann]

For a replacement battery, there are several key elements to be sure of.

Firstly, ensure the Ah rating is correct for the car and your current 95Ah sounds right. Next ensure the dimensions correspond with the existing battery, or better still the battery tray. There is nothing more frustrating than purchasing a replacement battery to find that the dimensions have grown and it does not quite fit the battery tray and hold down straps. Remember, an unsecured battery would be an MOT fail!

Bosch and Yuasa are both good quality makes and Andy is correct, you do not have stop / start and therefore your battery will be standard lead - acid and NOT one of the later AGM versions. A good Electrical Motor Factor will assist with solid advice.

Not sure about whether you need to tell the car it is fitted with a new battery, but if that is the case many OBDII units can do that, the handbook may advise and it may require a Jaguar Diagnostics unit to make the update. However, your CTEK should have a facility included where you can use it to maintain the voltage across the car terminals whilst the battery is exchanged (my own preference for the Ring Automotive Smart Charger has that facility) - assuming you are undertaking the changeout yourself. In that way, none of the previously stored memory should be lost.

Once you have made the change, I would suggest you drive the car for a minimum of 10 miles before you adjust any setting, even lowering an electric window. The 10 miles will allow the car to reset it's brain. This 10 mile rule is also a good idea after the car has stood for any length of time, such as bringing out of winter layup, or even just sitting unused for a couple of weeks.

Jim M

[ptjs1]

Tony,

I don't think a 2005 x350 is that clever. Certainly I just changed the battery in my 2004 4.2 without any need to "tell" the car. Can't remember if it lost radio stations etc, but that's no big deal.

The battery size on an x350 is an 019. Your Bosch S3013 is that size.

I nearly always use Tayna for my batteries. Try here: https://www.tayna.co.uk/

Good luck

Paul

[Thixendale]

Hi Everyone,
An update on my multiple issues.

So I got a battery tester and a wheel sensor for the princely sum of £70.

First I tested the battery and that came out as a pass.

Now, I have had my car for 4 years and daft as this may sound I have never taken any of the wheels off. In fact I have done very little work on it myself.

Anyway, I jacked the car up and removed the wheel. The sensor was easy to find so disconnected the cable undid the bolt and removed the sensor. I reconnected the new one and fixed in place with the bolt. A bit of copper grease applied to the stud threads and hup plate and put the wheel back on.

Took it out for a test drive of around 15 miles getting up to 70 and no errors.

So it seems the fault was a failed sensor in this case.

Many thanks to all for your help and advice. Greatly appreciated and it saved me money

One tip - ensure you put you locking nut key back after putting the wheel back on. I didn't and only remembered after 10 miles. I stopped to check and fortunately the key was still on the nut - phew!

Thanks again everyone.

Cheers

Tony

[andypryce]

Good result! I have given up on locking wheel nuts as not many people pinch wheels anymore, even in Liverpool!